What to use and why on silver, white and grey

WX51TXR

Polished Bliss
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White, silver and grey are colours that a lot of people find it hard to achieve a good finish on. This is because the lightness of tone precludes decent reflectivity, and thus makes it hard to achieve a finish with any depth. However, as always, a combination of good methods and good product selection helps no end, and I find it really easy to produce stunning results on these colours these days. So, what is the golden rule for everything from solid white through to mid grey? The answer is only use sealants. Unless you have a huge wad of cash to burn on a very high end wax like Zymöl Vintage, don’t even think about a wax finish on these colours. All you will get is something like the following results…

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What we can see above is a lovely warm, fuzzy glow. Okay, it’s wet looking, and overall the car looks good, but there’s no wow factor to the finish… and if you spent the best part of two days doing the work like I did, you’d be rather deflated with it. For reference, the above finish was produced by a reasonably decent carnauba wax, around the £40 price point.

So, how do sealants help? Well, because of the chemical structure of sealant polymers, they allow light to pass through the protective layer with much less distortion, meaning you get a much crisper, sharper look to the paint. In some cases, this effect is so pronounced that any metallic flake present will stand out much more in direct sunlight. It is important to note that some sealant systems are impregnated with carnauba wax to add more glossiness; these are best avoided, as the optical benefits of the sealant are mostly lost. My advice is to stick with pure sealant systems, and there is none finer than the Werkstat Acrylic system. I’ve had my 2001 Leon since new, and I’ve tried countless products on it, but nothing comes close to the finish that this range of products produces. They leave a level of gloss in excess of that of any carnauba wax I’ve tried on the car, and make the metallic flake really explode from the paint when the sun is out. The final killer benefit is that it is the most durable protective system I sell; a proper application of the basecoat product (Prime Acrylic) followed by a couple of layers of the spray sealant (Acrylic Jett Trigger) will give around six months solid protection with little or no maintenance. Enough talk, here’s proof of what it can do on my car…

Superb Reflectivity

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Amazing Flake Pop

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Brilliant Durability

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This system is so good we use it on all white through to mid grey cars, and talk customers out of more expensive wax options as they simply don't give the same incredible results. Here’s a selection of shots showing the finish on a wide range of cars we’ve done with these products…

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And here’s the recommended products in question…

Werkstat Acrylic Kit

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:icon_thumright:
 
So basically, the cash I've just spent on the Zymol will make the finish look **** in comparison to the Jeffs stuff...

Oh ********...
 
Well, depends on which price point you're working at... higher up the chain and the results even on silver are better; here's a few pics of an A4 wearing Vintage, and to my eyes it did look very, very nice. However, hundreds (and even thousands) of pounds on wax isn't an option for a lot of folk, and in my book the Jeffs system offers unbeatable value for money, and looks brilliant to boot. I'm having a real mind battle deciding whether to stick with the Jeffs or put Vintage on my car for summer. :think:

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man thats a cracking post. really informative and i think uve sold the jeffs to me....roll on payday!!
 
WX51TXR, you mention you use the Jeff's kit on all non-zymol silver to mid grey cars. Well, I've got a Dolphin Grey S4, would the Jeff's kit be suitable or is there a better product for darker grey cars - although I see the grey BMW looks good.

What should I be using before the sealant, a decent polish?
 
Dolphin Grey looks great with Jeffs on it, see here...

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?t=35583

The Jeffs basecoat product, Prime Acrylic, does a great job of deep cleaning and removing dead paint, but if you have sub surface defects like swirls and scratches then yes, a initial abrasive polishig step will be required. Working by hand Menzerna Intensive Polish is great, while by machine Menzerna RD3.02 and 85RD are a superb pair to use. :)
 
Hmmm... thinking about this for my White A3 Sportback. Are the Jeffs products suitable for PC application. If so, what pads would you recommend for each step please?
 
Been thinking about this some more, and went and checked out my garage this afternoon to see what I already had.

I found some unopened Klasse All in One and unopened Poorboys EX-P. Both of these appear not to have any wax in them. Would you think these are suitable?
 
Jeffs Prime Acrylic is an updated version of Klasse AIO, so AIO will work well. Use a soft black glazing pad to apply it at speed 1-2, 4-5 passes then buff. Should look good, but the addition of the Acrylic Jett Trigger over the top would add extra wetness (fully compatible products). :)
 
WX51TXR, I have just spent the last few hours reading your entire guide on your web site :weight_lift2: They are very informative, and extremely use full. I never knew a sponge can do so much damage, and never heard of the two bucket method before:think: . Thanks a lot.

I have just bought my first sliver Audi a few weeks. (Link in signature) I want to keep it clean and shiny over summer. I only have the basic car products, a sponge, bucket, and some T-plan car shampoo. Yes I know am bad.

After reading you web site, and this thread, I have decided to buy a basic set wash kit.

But what would something starting from scratch need: basic wash kit, mitt’s waffle, shampoo, JEFFS Werkstatt Acrylic Kit??

And would I use the gloss only if the prime doesn’t clean it?

So far I understand it as this:

-Rinse car
-Wash with lambwool mitt, using two bucket method, use other mitt, on harder surfaces

Then taken from your web site:
Start out by applying a basecoat of JEFFS Werkstatt Prime Acrylic using the white side of the Ultimate German Applicator Pad, and buff off this residue using the blue Poorboy's Super Thick & Plush Towel, using a spritz of JEFFS Werkstatt Acrylic Glos to help loosen the residue if needs be. Then apply a coat or two of JEFFS Werkstatt Acrylic Jett Trigger by spraying onto one of the coral Poorboy's Deluxe Mega Towels, wiping over the panel and then buffing off with the other Poorboy's Deluxe Mega Towel, again using a spritz of JEFFS Werkstatt Acrylic Glos to help loosen the residue if needs be. You can also use JEFFS Werkstatt Acrylic Glos when drying off after washing to add extra protection, boost gloss and aid the drying process.

So in short (from above):

- prime with white side of German pad
- buff with plush towel (use a bit of gloss)
- Acrylic jett with mega towel (can I use red side of german pad?)
- Buff with other mega towel (use a bit of gloss)

(All hand washed)

Is that is then? My car should be nice and shiny.

Anything else I should now?

(Any chance of a discount if I order a lot from you, plus if I get two different sets, I don’t need two waffle towels :sly: )

Thanks in advance! :icon_thumright:
Never knew so much about cleaning a car.
 
Also is there a cheaper alternative to the Jeff kit?
 
Nearly there, there is no cheaper decent alternative to the Jeffs Kit in terms of what it does; £47 for three products, three towels and a decent applicator isn't bad! Here's the routine I would recommend...

Wash (ideally every week)

Basic Wash Kit - http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb500wash.html

Rinse, then two bucket wash, then rinse, then dry with waffle weave.

Clay (once every six months)

Meguiars Quik Clay Kit - http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb100clean.html

This clay is very mild, and thus easy and safe to learn with; although mild, it works very well. Given your motor is a 54 plate chances are it will need it.

Polish/Protect (polish once every six months after claying, protect every 6-8 weeks)

Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic Kit - http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb505protect.html

As above for application methods, you've got it sussed it seems, and yes, you can spray Jett onto the red side of a pad and spread it that way too; I've tried it and it works fine this way.

In terms of discounts, all orders over £100 get a 5% discount applied at the time of checking out. Glad you found the site helpful! :)
 
Cheers dude.

Bit scared of using clay. But may have to give it a ago.

Will save up first, then maybe buy in next few months.

Also how many times you reacon i can use the Jeff kit on an A3 sized car? ie how long will the bottle last?

Thanks once again. :icon_thumright:
 
Cheers for this guide, cars look fantastic. Luckily I already have most of the wash kit and the quik clay. Looks like its the Jeff's gear next then.

Just got my car back from the bodyshop so its in need of some protection.
 
MiT said:
Cheers dude.

Bit scared of using clay. But may have to give it a ago.

Will save up first, then maybe buy in next few months.

Also how many times you reacon i can use the Jeff kit on an A3 sized car? ie how long will the bottle last?

Thanks once again. :icon_thumright:

You can get around twenty applications from the kit no problem - a little goes a long way! :yes:
 
My car's going in for some paint (bumpers, bonnet, mirrors and a couple of other bits) next month. When I get it back I want to give it a proper going over to get it looking spot on.

I've got Megs Quik Clay and Zymol HD Cleanse to clean the paint & Titanium Wax to put on afterwards but I've noticed some light cobwebbing and swirls on the paint. I haven't got a PC and TBH, don't particularly want to shell out for one. What's the best polish to use by hand? I know I'll have to see what the repainted areas are like (although they'd better be ****** good!) but would I need to use different stuff on these areas?
 
joost said:
I know I'll have to see what the repainted areas are like (although they'd better be ****** good!)
Hope you have more luck with your paint than I have had..!! My car goes back for "rectification" at the end of the month. Which in short means they have to redo everything they did the first time. I'll be checking a bit more carefully before driving away ths time though.
 
I can vouch that the JEFF's is great on sprint blue too. Rich recommended this stuff for my new S3 and the results are fantastic! Can't recommend this enough!!!

Have a look:

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Smashing! :) Looks well nice.

I used it on my car as well, not as shiny, but i guess i ran out of energy while buffing! Didn't take any pictures, as it got too dark. Spent 3 hours cleaning it.
 
Thats a really useful guide, i spent quite a few hours at the weekend cleaning my A3 (by hand :weight_lift2: as i don't have a PC yet) and got it to this level but it'd be good to get the colour to stand out more.
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Roll on pay day :)
 
Got my JEFF's kit today (from polishedbliss of course ;)), so will spend saturday making my car look pretty :D

Also got a clay bar so will give that a go aswell.

Not looking forward to doing it by hand though...must invest in a PC sometime!
 
Rich,

All the JEFFS stuff arrived on Thursday gone - Many Thanks. :thumbsup:

So I was up at the crack of sparrow fart on Saturday Morning - AND - after 4 hours hard graft I came up with decent results :sadlike:

No where near the finish you have on the Leon. What may I have done wrong?

It was dull and not that warm. I applyed the Prime and left, it as recommended on the bottle for 30 mins (I know you said 3 - 4 mins) I then spent a large bucket of elbow grease and about a 1/4 of a bottle of the Acrylic Gloss Buffing of the residue.


Don't get me wrong the the finish was Good but not what you get on the Leon.

I need Help (insert joke)

The Poor Boys Wheel Wax is the Business.:icon_thumright:

Cheers

S
 
Various factors might be coming into play. What state is your paint in to start with? If you have a lot of bonded surface contaminants (tar spots, tree sap, bug remains) then these will be reducing clarity (and the prime won't cut through them all). If the paint still feels rough to your fingertips then claying will help matters and improve clarity. Next, do you have sub-surface defects such as swirls and fine scratches? If so, the final finish will be less good than on the Leon, as such defects again rob clarity and reflectivity. Onto the product application, it really is best to apply Prime Acrylic to each panel one by one and buff within a minute or two of application. I only left it once for 30 mins and that taught me a valuable lesson. When you use the products as we instruct the application process is very easy, but I am still surprised the results you got were not as expected. Did you follow up with anything else after the Prime Acrylic? Might be worth posting some pics here so I can see what you acheived. :)
 
I would have posted pic but the great British weather intervened. (No surprise there after 4 hours work)

I don't think there is a poor surface finish, but would a Clay session be advise able anyway. '05 plate 20,000 miles.

Either Clay or the Menzerna PO91L (You get FREE when you place an order over £65 at PolishedBliss.com) Small Plug there don't think anyone noticed.

I cant really see Swirls . . . .

3 Min's is now a max, for leaving the product on a panel. 30 Min's can really ruin the rest of the day, and any elbows you might be fond of.

After the Prime I used the Jeff's spray Gloss, mainly in order to remove the Prime. Nothing after that.


Thanks for the advice, Keep up the good work.

:thumbsup:
 
Mine came out pretty good. Clay baring made a big difference although it was a hard days with it being hot outside (two weeks ago) - meant i had to work quickly to stop it drying out, despite it still being in the shade!

I did notice that I have more swirl marks than I first thought. Any great ideas for removing swirl marks on a silver car?
 
Spudgun said:
After the Prime I used the Jeff's spray Gloss, mainly in order to remove the Prime. Nothing after that.

Hey mate,

I think you need to invest in the acrylic trigger to add after the prime - I think this is the bit that really brings the paint back to life.

I'm sure Rich or Clark will confirm (or shoot me down!).

JK
 
Adding coats of Acrylic Jett Trigger over Prime Acrylic certainly adds a lot of wetness and extra gloss, but usually Prime Acrylic has a pretty stunning effect even when used on it's own. I did a quick homer for my hairdresser last week, and her silver Vectra came up a treat with just a single coat of Prime Acrylic. I'm a bit stumped on this one; claying might help if you have a lot of microscopic contaminants, as these can significantly reduce clarity and the amount of reflectivity. Pictures would help when you next get a chance to take some.

Another thought; as a single step product in silver I firmly believe Prime Acrylic is very hard to beat. However, a single stage process is never going to be equal to using the full range of products; i.e. basecoat of Prime Acrylic every six months, topped with regular coats of Acrylic Jett Trigger every 4-6 weeks, and QD'd with Acrylic Glos regularly (after every wash). The pics of the Leon above show the effects of following this routine.
 
Ed said:
Mine came out pretty good. Clay baring made a big difference although it was a hard days with it being hot outside (two weeks ago) - meant i had to work quickly to stop it drying out, despite it still being in the shade!

I did notice that I have more swirl marks than I first thought. Any great ideas for removing swirl marks on a silver car?

By hand, Menzerna Intensive Polish using the white side of a German Pad. It will be very hard work, and you won't get everything out, but it will improve matters no end. To get full correction, you would need a machine polisher and the newer generation of Menzerna polishes. :)
 
Hi,

Im glad I found this post! I have just bought my A3, which as the metalic light blue/silver colour, I havent actually seen that many about so im not sure of the name?

Going from Golf then Bora, both in indigo blue I did find the lack of depth you are talking about.

To be honest I used to polish them with Turtle Was colour magic as they both had little marks here and there and it covered then, im sure you will cringe at the £8.99 bottle, but I found it easy to apply leaving a nice finish and keeping the rain off...

However, id like to try my best to get the A3 looking as nice as I can, so am thinking of spending a little more, lol, to get something that works!

Would you recomend this kit for my car? I take it £46.95 is the price or is there a group buy or anything?

Thanks in advance for any info

Cheers

Dave:)
 
Hi Dave, yes, on any light metallic colour I'd recommend this kit above anything else, and £46.95 is the price; discounts only kick in on spends over £100. However, the kit price is discounted over buying the included products separately. :)
 
Well, received my Acrylic Kit today along with the wheel kit and a few other bits and bobs....£145 quid worse off but confident that I have all the right bits for every job...

Quick couple of questions:

Should I seriuosly consider claying a two week old car before applying the prime, jett and gloss?

I know 4 mins is recommended for the Prime, does leaving it longer make it work better but harder to buff?

Do I also leave Prime Strong on my wheels for 4 mins or the 30 rec. on the bottle?
 
Used the Acrylic Prime and Jett today...jesus christ the prime is hard to buff off after only 4 minutes, god knows what it would be like after 30! And did it inside my garages, would be terrible in the sun...

Put the Prime tub on the roof for a second after buffing the Prime and it started to slide on my barely cambered roof centre....made me laugh...almost tempted to rinse it with water there and then to watch how the water beads/sheets off etc...

Thank god for the Gloss which as recommended really helped to get it moving. Was a little surprised at how "thin " the Jett was, barely any thicker than the Gloss and so easy to apply...

All in all, car is gleaming...but to be honest as the car is only 3 weeks old, can't really tell the difference massively to look at, but the feel is glass-like...
 
am I wasting my time buying this stuff.???

I have the Auto Glynn life shine on the car would Jeff's stuff have much effect on top of the Auto Glynn
 
normski said:
Used the Acrylic Prime and Jett today...jesus christ the prime is hard to buff off after only 4 minutes, god knows what it would be like after 30! And did it inside my garages, would be terrible in the sun...

Put the Prime tub on the roof for a second after buffing the Prime and it started to slide on my barely cambered roof centre....made me laugh...almost tempted to rinse it with water there and then to watch how the water beads/sheets off etc...

Thank god for the Gloss which as recommended really helped to get it moving. Was a little surprised at how "thin " the Jett was, barely any thicker than the Gloss and so easy to apply...

All in all, car is gleaming...but to be honest as the car is only 3 weeks old, can't really tell the difference massively to look at, but the feel is glass-like...

Aye, that's what the Glos is for, helping to loosen the residues of the other two products if you find them hard to buff off. As you now build up layers of the Trigger over the coming months you will see more and more wetness; my leon looked nuts after 9-10 applications! Enjoy the crazy beading and sheeting next time it gets wet! :icon_thumright:
 
Scottie said:
am I wasting my time buying this stuff.???

I have the Auto Glynn life shine on the car would Jeff's stuff have much effect on top of the Auto Glynn

No, the Auto Glym treatment will wear off in 6-9 months time anyway, at which point it would be worth swapping. The Jeffs system is just as durable, but looks much better in terms of gloss and reflectivity. Also, note that using the basecoat product in the system strips all previous products off the car anyway. :)