New MAF = New S3!!!

jimbobery

jimbobery

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Since I got my remapped S3 in April it hasn't felt quite as quick as I was expecting, although it felt quicker than my last car so just thought I was expecting too much.
But I borrowed vagcom and did some logging and found my MAF peak was 137g/s, when apparently it should've been 200+g/s. So I also logged block 120 (torque) and used the spreadsheet for this measuring block from the rosstech website to work out I had 180hp and 200lb-ft. When I unplugged the MAF (so it was running on base levels) I got 225hp and 219lb-ft, which did feel a bit quicker but it wasn't all that smooth through the revs. I tried cleaning the MAF but it made no difference.

Then today I brought a new MAF and its like a new car. Feels completely different throughout the rev range, much stronger and obviously more powerful. I logged 250hp and 270lb-ft!!! Its supposed to be remapped to 265 but I appreciate the way my power has been calculated probably isn't all that accurate, but equally a remap without any other mods might not quite make the claimed 265.

Anyway am well chuffed and can highly recommend checking MAF readings if your car isn't feeling quite like it should.
 
Glad to here you got it sorted!

Out of curiosity what remap have you got and what mods?
 
Thats good news mate! You couldnt give me a brief guide on how to work out the hp and torque so i can check mine out. May as well put my VAGCOM to good use!
 
Remap was done by previous owner, but it was with ChippedUK in bromsgrove. I've got no other mods except a new forge TIP mainly because the old one looked perished and I was trying to solve a lack of power at high revs (which was obviously the MAF not the TIP).

djakster, there is loads of information about logging stuff on vagcom and working out hp etc, but its not in any one place so I spent ages getting it together from different websites and forum threads and put it into one word doc. I've split it into seperate checks to look at things like MAF, torque, o2 sensors, requested vs actual boost etc. PM me your email address and I'll sent it to you when I get home.

But as jester says, for hp, measuring block 120 and then the spreadsheet half way down that page.
 
Cheers, looks like I have a similar setup so I'll have a play and see what results i get. I've got CC1, Samco TIP and Upper Hoses.

On the codes, i've been doing the same; any chance you could 'cut and paste' your word doc so I can update mine? I've found these so far:


Log Block 002 - To show air mass from the sensor
Log Block 005 - To show vehicle speed
Log Block 008 - To check if the brakes are applied or not
Log Block 011 - To log boost pressure (In a high gear (4th/5th) give full throttle from 1500-2000 rpm to 3500-4000 rpm)
Log Block 015 - To check for misfires
Log Block 016 - To check for bad coilpacks
Log Block 031 - To show lamda reading from O2 Sensor
Log Block 032 - To check for a O2 sensor/Throttle Valve (+ =lean & - = rich)
Log BLOCK 062 - To show throttle position and accelerator position in %
Log Block 115 - To see the specified Vs actual boost.
Log Block 118 - To log intake air Temp (FMIC install)
Log Block 120 - To log torque & RPM
Log Block 134 - To log Oil Temp
 
Word doc is pretty long as I included the full descriptions of the measuring blocks and comments/guides from people on how to use them, probably best to email it if you PM me your email. (but its at home so can only send it later).

From memory though all the blocks you have there were the main ones, although block 015 and 016 both log misfires, 015 does cylinder 1to3 and 016 does 4, but they are used for coil pack analysis. Still confused about these blocks as when I log them I get intermittent misfires (as you know from my other thread), but no fault codes logged. Might have to try again with my new MAF to see if its helped. Tax and MOT next week so could do without new coil packs too!
 
hi

how would you know if your maf has gone. i seem to hear alot about them going. starting to get a tad paraniod.lol:uhm:
 
Email sent to all who PM'd.

Kevsn, MAF records air flow in g/s and apparently a remapped S3 should be recording around 210g/s.
If you can get your car on vagcom block 002 logs MAF g/s, and then do a run in 2nd from about 1500rpm to the redline. Check the log and look for the highest g/s and if this is low (137g/s in my case) then it could be MAF.

But it might not be a faulty MAF; if there is a leak somewhere after the MAF then unmeasured air might be entering the intake, in which case a lower g/s reading would be accurate and MAF is fine.

MAF can be cleaned, but didn't make any difference for me.
 
thanks

its just ever since i bought the car two weeks ago i heard a whooshing sound when i plant my foot then it would pin you in your seat (justthought the whoosing was the turbo spooling up) . higher revs didnt seem to pull as good as i was expecting after owning an s3 4 years ago. i disconected the maf and took it for a run and the whooshing sound disapeared i then reconected the maf and the whoosing sound has gone but im not sure if the car seems better in the higher revs but doesnt pin you in your seat like it did before at aroung 3000 rpm. i can also hear the whistle from the turbo more now.

anyone have any ideads about this

hope it makes sense
 
Not sure about the whooshing sound, mine's always made a whoosh when the turbo kicks in. Bit weird if your whoosh has disappeared??

What you described with the higher revs not pulling so well is what was happening with mine. It pulled well at 3-4k rpm when I has maxium torque, but after 4k it got really weak.
Not any more though, pulls strong all through the revs :). Definately worth getting your car on vagcom to really know what the maf etc is up to.
 
its going back in today to get it checked it definetely lost that initial kick at 3000 rpm and seems lacking in power.

cheers
 
From my (limited) experience I think you should be getting around 150-160 g/s for 200bhp.

I've read some posts on here about MAFs brought from ebay failing. I brought mine from Audi for 65(ex vat) and I had to give them my old one. Bit pricey but I wanted one straight away so an online order was too slow. It comes with a two year warranty, although you do have to let Audi run diagnostics on the car to prove the MAF has broken, and if it hasn't or something else is at fault (like an aftermarket air filter) you have to pay for the diagnostics and obviously they don't give you a new MAF.

Before you buy a new MAF it might be worth checking some other possible causes for a low MAF reading like a leak somewhere after the MAF.
 
deece said:
From my (limited) experience I think you should be getting around 150-160 g/s for 200bhp.

I've read some posts on here about MAFs brought from ebay failing. I brought mine from Audi for 65(ex vat) and I had to give them my old one. Bit pricey but I wanted one straight away so an online order was too slow. It comes with a two year warranty, although you do have to let Audi run diagnostics on the car to prove the MAF has broken, and if it hasn't or something else is at fault (like an aftermarket air filter) you have to pay for the diagnostics and obviously they don't give you a new MAF.

Before you buy a new MAF it might be worth checking some other possible causes for a low MAF reading like a leak somewhere after the MAF.
Click to expand...

Thanks,

Have ordered the above ebay item as states it comes with 12 month warranty - i'll use vagcom to keep an eye on it.

Had a quick look for leaks but couldn't see anything obvious. Any way of checking?

Also, do you know whether the maf is standard for all A3's or whether they have a different part numbers depending on the engine code? (ETKA seems to quote different numbers)

Thanks
 
I just visually checked the pipes coming off the TIP. Not really conclusive but rules out any obvious splits on the pipes.

At £25 you're not taking much of a risk anyway so I don't blame you. Not sure about different MAFs for different A3s though?
 
:applaus:Just replaced the MAF last night after getting it ordered last week from Vagparts.

When I took out the old MAF it was immediately obvious that something was missing when comapred to the new one. The thin metal wire that is looped round and looks a bit like a resistor (diode perhaps?) was completely missing from the old MAF. Would this mean that the MAF wouldn't have been working at all (no complete circuit) and that the ECU would have been running off the base tables as if the MAF had been disconnected?

Anyways, popped in the new MAF and the car is noticeably much smoother, and is pulling cleanly through the entire rev range. The feeling that it was holding back is now gone, and she is absolutely flying once more, Hurray!! Plus the CEL light had turned itself off as soon as the new MAF was installed. Nice.

Will reset the codes that were being flagged on vagcom tonight and maybe log some measuring blocks to see how the recorded airflow compares now the new MAF is in place.
 
S3 Chris, did you do some more logging? Is the new MAF working better?
 
not had a chance to log again yet since the new MAFs been installed i'm afraid.
tried last week but battery on laptop died :blush:
will post results once i get round to it though

cheers
 
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