Revs Rising/ do all S3s have clutch Switch

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ben_turbo1

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Hi Everyone,

There seems to be some confusion as the weather all S3s should have a clutch switch or just the ones that have cruise control fitted.

I ask because when I change rear at higher revs the revs rise slightly when I compress the clutch, I have carried out some searches and this seems to be a common problem with no obvious cure.

Some people say that they changed their clutch switch and it solved the problem, after reading this I went to audi and ordered a clutch switch, the guy at the counters first response was does my car have cruise control which it doesn't so he said I don't need one but he then looked on his computer and said they do list them for my car so I ordered one.

When I got home I thought I'd check if I already have one and I don't???

I'm confused and would love to find a cure for this and I know I'm not the only one after reading threads on the forum.

Thanks in advance.
 
Yes they should have them regardless of cruise control. I had the same problem for a while but a new switch didnt fix it, in fact it made it worse so i reverted back to the original.

Over time the problem seems to have disapeared although it does do it slightly now since ive had the car remapped but it seems to be more intermittant. There only about £12 so its worth a try.
 
I 'think' all S3 are DBW therefore they should in theory have the switch above the clutch pedal. Somebody else posted up a while ago that not all switches were faulty, some had been installed incorrectly (ie. not pulled the plunger part out and then installed it).

I have to agree, I too did this and last weekend, I took the lower steering cover off and reset the switch. Since then, no more over-revving or automatic red-lining:motz: between gearchanges. I was originally told that the over-revving was caused by a possible vacuum leak (which there was and got sorted out) but I still had the same problem until the switch was reset.
 
Hmm, i've had this problem for months and done lots of research but as above, not found a definateive cure. A new clutch switch didn't sort it.

Tell me more about resetting the switch and the vacuum leak?

Cheers
 
To reset the clutch switch, unplug the wiring plug on top of the switch, twist and remove the switch and then manually pull the plunger all the way out. With the pedal in it's natural position, gently push the switch back in to the slot (you should hear it click as it compresses), lock in position and the job is done. Refit as per removal as Mr. Haynes would say.

As for the vacuum leak, I searched manually by taking the plastic cover off the inlet manifold (I have an A3, not an S3 btw) and removed the metal plate that the vacuum hoses run under. I had a good feel (oooerrr missus) of all the hoses and noticed that the one that was connected to a brass fitting at the botton of the inlet manifold chamber (L-shaped) had a split right at the corner of the 'L', difficult to see unless you have a good look with everything out of the way. £3 later, the hose was replaced and 'job's a goodun'. Not had any over-revving / red-lining incidents since (clocked 100 miles since then too).

I did the job when the engine was stone cold so I didn't burn myself, it's easier to see using natural daylight as opposed to a lamp so try doing it in the day to make life easier, the first time I tried looking, I used a lamp whilst my car was in my garage one evening and didn't spot the split hose.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, I got loads of parts to pick up from audi tomorrow one of them being my clutch switch so will fit it tomorrow and see if I still have the problem.

I did have a quick look and could not see a clutch switch or any wiring near my clutch pedal. Is the clutch switch fitted inside a metal casing? Has anyone got a picture of their clutch switch?

Thanks
 
I also have an over-revving problem and replaced the clutch switch 4 weeks ago.. Clocked over 1k miles since then and its still over-revving although not as much. Car is going in to the garage in the next few weeks to get a few bits and bobs sorted but i will make sure the hoses are checked for leaks.. Anyone got any other suggestions? Would vag-com show any indication?
 
In addition to this, i have noticed my average mpg drop by 3/4 which is mildly annoying!
 
When I scanned my car before I reset the clutch switch / split vac hose, no faults were coming up on VCDS, maybe someone with more knowledge of VCDS could possibly run a few logs to determine if there was a leak?
 
i too have got the same problem, after my cluctch pedal snappin the other day, didnt do it before so im guessing i just need to reset the sensor, if not il have to get a new 'un
 
Ok I had a good look and I definately DO NOT have a clutch switch or the relevant wiring. What is going on? I can see the hole where the cltuch switch should go into. My car is a 2001 Y S3 without cruise control?

Cheers
 
I would have thought there would atleast be some wiring hanging around the area (in my car the cable to the clutch switch has a blue coloured plug with 2? wires coming out of it). Maybe the previous owner removed the switch?
 
hey guys

im a new audi s3 owner - can you tell me what this is about? i just want to make sure i dont have the same issue
 
Dragonstyle - Some S3s have a problem when changing gear at highish revs causing the revs to actually rise when you compress the clutch rather than dropping. For some people this is solved by changing the clutch switch.

I don't have a clutch switch but think I have cured my issue whilst sorting a missfire I had. By changing all 4 coils and spark plugs and repairing a split I found in one of the PCV pipes I seem to have sorted the revving problem for now.

Thanks for the comments on this thread guys.
 
i think ill look for hose splits to see if its that. Tried with switch unplugged but just made it worse. Pretty sure its set right. I wonder what would happen if you were to short the switch so it was constantly on?
 
Do you mean so it constanly on e.g the car thinks the clutch is always depressed or vise versa? Either way round you wouldn't need to "short" anything just take the switch out of its mounting bracket an either leave it as is so the car will think the clutch is depressed or tape the plunger in the in position so it thinks the clutch isnt depressed????
 
Yes thats what i mean, either way i wonder what would happen.

I'd like to try it connected but unclipped so the car thinks you've dipped the clutch then go for a drive and see if the rising revs still exists. If it has gone then i'll know its either the switch (unlikely as its new) or its position/setup
 
Let me get this right:

Depress clutch = switch/plunger out (OFF - open circuit)

Release clutch = switch/plunger in (ON - closed circuit)
 
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