Pioneer F900BT

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Simmo_Sportback_S_Line

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Guys I now have this unit back with me and have deided I am going to fit it into my A3, my question is will it work with the Bose system and what bits of kit do I need to buy to make it all work?

Also when it was in my Golf in didn't sit flush in the dash, can I avoid this with the A3?
 
The RNSE looks good but is massively over priced and can't touch the Pioneer for features, to get the Bluetooth and iPhone connected with RNSE is probably going to cost me around £1k, even then I have heard the iPhone interface is clunky, it's still not a touch screen and the list goes on....

So for now I am staying with the Pioneer :whistle2:
 
I mean really? What more features do you need from the headunit other than music and navigation.
 
From experience heres what i'd say you need:

Autoleads DFP-05-09 - Double Din fascia Adaptor

Autoleads PC5-149 - Dual Fakra aerial adaptor

Autoleads PC9-410 - Full bose amplified harness adaptor

There is another lead available from connects2 if you want steering wheel controls, but you'll also need a patch lead which is stereo specific.

Connects2 CTSAD002 - Id say get this lead, the PC9-410 comes with a high low convertor which takes up space whereas the connects 2 doesnt and has the steering wheel control adaptor built in.

CTPIONEERLEAD - you'd need this to make it work with the pioneer you have.

As for it sitting flush in the dash, i did a kenwood DNX9820 on an A3 using all the above kit + connects 2 leads and it sat flush. I did a SONY XAV622 into an a4 cab and it didnt sit flush. Depends on the stereo i reckon.

EDIT: the connects2 lead is plug and play, the autoleads one needs playing around with.
 
Sidhu88 said:
From experience heres what i'd say you need:

Autoleads DFP-05-09 - Double Din fascia Adaptor

Autoleads PC5-149 - Dual Fakra aerial adaptor

Autoleads PC9-410 - Full bose amplified harness adaptor

There is another lead available from connects2 if you want steering wheel controls, but you'll also need a patch lead which is stereo specific.

Connects2 CTSAD002 - Id say get this lead, the PC9-410 comes with a high low convertor which takes up space whereas the connects 2 doesnt and has the steering wheel control adaptor built in.

CTPIONEERLEAD - you'd need this to make it work with the pioneer you have.

As for it sitting flush in the dash, i did a kenwood DNX9820 on an A3 using all the above kit + connects 2 leads and it sat flush. I did a SONY XAV622 into an a4 cab and it didnt sit flush. Depends on the stereo i reckon.

EDIT: the connects2 lead is plug and play, the autoleads one needs playing around with.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the comprehensive reply, the standard pioneer cage I used in the golf forced the unit to sit out from the dash and I want to avoid that this time.
 
Simmo_Sportback_S_Line said:
Sorry just confirm, the CTSAD002 is in place of the PC9-410 or in addition?
Click to expand...

In place of, id recommend that over the autoleads harness. I think how far the stereo protrudes from out will ultimately determine how flush it sits. The kenwood had minimal protrusion aside from the control panel at the bottom which is probably why.

If you're worried about it from a security point of perspective then buy urself a cover for the face to use when its parked up. I saw an a3 that had a black cover with "s-line" written on it. Looked almost like a factory addition. Try ebay.
 
I have a problem gentlemen!!

I connected it up and turned on the ignition and the lights on the unit lit up and the start up screen displayed, I then turned the ignition off so I could tidy the wiring up before I pushed it into postion.

When I turned the power on again the unit seems like it has no power and the screen is just blank, no illumination or anything?!

I have a few wires on the harness that are not connected so I am just wondering if this may have something to do with it, please take a look and if you have any suggestions then they would be greatly welcome!!

TIA

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The only ones of importance here that aren't the speaker cables are as follows:

Red - Ignition
Yellow - Permanent
Blue - Remote or Powered amplifier
Green - Handbrake cable

Black on aerial is power feed for signal booster.

Ok so blue with red spade connector on end labelled antenna control is what u need to connect to the black lead from the aerial adaptor. This gives it the power it needs to boost the signal for MW/LW mainly, FM works fine without it. But make sure u do it nonetheless it also has an attenuator built in for signal inteference.

The green is already crimped into the ground so u dont need to do anything with that. Its supposed to be wired to the handbrake so that video is only shown when the handbrake is up, grounding it as it has been done here allows for video on the move.

The blue wire u have with a clear plastic coat around it with the bullet style connector isn't needed.

The problem you're gonna have now is there is no ignition source readily available on the audi thats easy to wire up the Red ignition cable to. The stereo should flick on and off when the key is in or out of the ignition. The stereo at the moment will only work via the permanent battery cable, you need an ignition source too. On a mk5 golf this can be taken from the power cable that leads to the heater controls but its not an easy job to do if ur not too mechanically minded. You can also access this power source from the fuseboard by finding the correct fuse for the heaters.

Its hard to explain but if u can wait until tomoro ill take pics or something and show u the sort of wiring u need to create to get ur ignition source. Failing this u can wire the red wire into the yellow but this will leave u with the stereo permanently on and ud have to manually turn it off each time.
 
Again thanks for the reply, unfortunately I am not near London, if you could take photos then that would be a great help!!

I was panicking that I had blown something!

It's wierd how it did come on the first time though?
 
Yeh im wondering y it did might be how it was wired tho. Ill try do a guide for wiring an ignition source if i get some time tomoro.
 
I have just tested the harness all the way to the radio, I have power at the plug that connects into the radio, so it looks like the unit is blown :(

Time to buy a new stereo
 
sorry to hear this, but like sidhu says check the fuse.

as for the flush fit with a flush fitting cage and some custom cutting i have managed this on my pioneer unit

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yh brodit mount.. thanks dude.

you can see in the pic in my sig where the brodit iphone holder is. perfect position for my tomtom app.
 
i had the same prob with my pioneer HU
It would fire up but no sound.
Called the tech dept up and they said i had to join all the blue wires on both harness's together (1 from car, 1 from HU and the other should be the mfsw patch lead) to provide power to fire up the bose system
True enough, it worked!
Why it wasnt inc in the destructions i dont know, coz theres NO way i wouldve worked that out myself lol
 
i was going to suggest that but i saw sidhu suggest the wiring info and i thought the OP did this.
also i dont see the mfsw box that comes in these kits as that is where i wire up the blue and purple wires.

in my system (this is off the top of my head from what i can remember)
blue from head unit goes to the blue on the mfsw box and the aerial adapter.
the purple from headunit goes to the purple on the mfsw box for reverse signal cable (for reverse camera)
the green cable from headunit (parking brake) goes to a grounding point (enables video in motion)
and i ignore the pink cable.

that setup along with the RCAs plugged in works perfectly on my Bose system. For those that dont have the bose just dont use the RCAs as the speakers are wired into the iso connections.
 
It depends on the adaptor lead used. I forgot the blue remote still needs to be connected. But theres blue for powered antenna and blue for remote too, normally blue/white.

The connects 2 lead has the adaptor for the mfsw built in so its just a case of getting the pioneer patch lead which connects to the adaptor and is a 3.5mm jack connection on the stereo.
 
coolevilangel said:
i had the same prob with my pioneer HU
It would fire up but no sound.
Called the tech dept up and they said i had to join all the blue wires on both harness's together (1 from car, 1 from HU and the other should be the mfsw patch lead) to provide power to fire up the bose system
True enough, it worked!
Why it wasnt inc in the destructions i dont know, coz theres NO way i wouldve worked that out myself lol
Click to expand...

Because not many cars have factory fitted amplified systems. Most people wouldnt need to connect the remote unless they had aftermarket subs and amps.
 
Ive started the guide, would have finished yday but the car broke down :( my mum was driving it and the driveshaft managed to pop out somehow. Wounder. I'll finish it today tho
 
Sid and Ash you have PM

Just to add I have checked the fuse and that is fine, I have confirmed this by swapping it with the working one from the Concert unit.

My car also does not have MFSW at present!

I hope I can solve this, I am sure the HU can't be broken!!
 
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