New TQS Owner & Project

Evening all, I happened to stumble across on eBay a, apparently, rare official press release pack for the TQS from Nov 1997, here is some pics;

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All the supporting narrative was in German which talks about the spec, performance and general headline stuff.

Just wish my TQS looked as good as those pics


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Evening all,

Just 1/2 way through changing the rocker cover gasket and having removed the rocker cover itself there appears, to me, to be 3 camshaft covers missing? See pic;

a385f51443d9b738cdd7b4505f1e2475.jpg


Should there be 3 more fitted?

Don't want to nail it all back together if bits are missing.

Cheers.


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Interesting that picture. I am sure when i removed the rocker cover on my spare head it had your half plastic cover over the oil topup cap, but also a double length version over the exhaust cam. I am yet to dismantle the present engine to verify correct setup.
 
Your not missing anything, that bits just stops cam splashing oil out if you remove the cap while it's running I guess
 
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Your not missing anything, that bits just stops cam splashing oil out if you remove the cap while it's running I guess

Yeah makes sense.

I shall resume reassembly tomorrow.

Cleaned up the rocker cover;

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Looks much better than before.

Cheers all


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On the subject of noticing things, does anyone know what diameter of silicon hose I'd need to replace the original fabric covered hose that runs from the intake manifold to the FPR - it's only about 15cm long. Mine has perished.

Cheers.


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4mm inner diameter. I can't remember how many of those plastic covers I had when I took my cam cover off. It's dark now and I'm settled so I'll check tomorrow after work.
 
4mm inner diameter. I can't remember how many of those plastic covers I had when I took my cam cover off. It's dark now and I'm settled so I'll check tomorrow after work.

Cheers - if you could that would be great.

Just thought I'd double check before bolting everything back up.

Out of interest, that hose I mentioned above - what's its purpose? And if it was excessively worn could it result in starting issues? Reason I ask is my car can occasionally be quite hesitate to start.

Cheers.


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1 cover is normal, it sits where the filler hole is. As mentioned its probably to stop oil splash.

The hose alters the fuel pressure in response to manifold pressure.

The injectors always require to have a 4 bar pressure differential with air inside the inlet manifold. When the engines under boost, and the manifold is at say +1bar, the regulator sees that via that pipe, and raises the fuel pressure to 5bar to compensate. Similarly when its under vaccum and at -0.5bar, it reduces the pressure.
 
Here is my head

20170821 084214 756x1008


It is this part that had me thinking there was another piece

20170821 084815 1512x2016 756x1008


After a google search on the part number it would suggest it seats some where in the pan / lower block area.

This reminds me "i must take pictures when stripping an engine"

Sorry for any confusion caused my friend.
 
1 cover is normal, it sits where the filler hole is. As mentioned its probably to stop oil splash.

The hose alters the fuel pressure in response to manifold pressure.

The injectors always require to have a 4 bar pressure differential with air inside the inlet manifold. When the engines under boost, and the manifold is at say +1bar, the regulator sees that via that pipe, and raises the fuel pressure to 5bar to compensate. Similarly when its under vaccum and at -0.5bar, it reduces the pressure.

Cheers for the feedback.

So if that hose were leaking, would that cause problematic starting?


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Here is my head

View attachment 134195

It is this part that had me thinking there was another piece

View attachment 134196

After a google search on the part number it would suggest it seats some where in the pan / lower block area.

This reminds me "i must take pictures when stripping an engine"

Sorry for any confusion caused my friend.

Cheers for the piccy mate - much appreciated.

I'll get the rocker cover on tonight.




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Rocker cover fitted - took the car for a drive, no obvious leaks.

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Next jobs;

Replace dip stick funnel
Replace coolant reservoir


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Evening chaps,

After some brake disc and pad recommendations please.

Nothing drilled or grooved, just a good solid set of discs and pads all round.

Links to suggestions would help - cheers


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In a bid to find the route cause of the intermittent starting issue that currently plagues my car I'm planning on changing the CTS. Just for clarity is this where it's located;

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Cheers.


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Mine had two plastic halves under the cam cover, sorry for the later than said reply.
 
Mine had two plastic halves under the cam cover, sorry for the later than said reply.

Interesting....

Can't find these on ETKA and a quick google search of the Pt No 058 103 555 B shows only two fitted to a 1.8t from a TT and one in all other applications.

But as suggested before they're just oil deflectors.

Thanks for coming back to me though.


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some engines had a breather off the cam cover, perhaps those used a second one to limit oil splash down the breather
 
Changed to the CTS tonight, here's the old one;

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Done some quick resistance checks and a serviceable CTS should read between 1.5k Ohms - 2.5k Ohms when cold and between 375 Ohms - 275 Ohms when hot.

The old CTS at cold read 1.8k Ohms but failed to give a reading when immersed in hot water.

By comparison, the new CTS read 2k Ohms cold and 400 Ohms hot.

The readings I got from the old CTS may explain that after a drive (up to temp) the car seem to hesitate to start. I'm not 100% what input to the engine management the CTS has but as the hot thermostat appeared to have failed every time I start the car (after warmed up) it thinks it still cold.

Fingers crossed that solves the problem.


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It effects the fuelling as the mixture for cold conditions is different for when the engine is running hot. I suppose then if the engine is unsure of what the temperature of the engine is it might assume fuel settings that aren't suitable for the physical operating temperature of the engine or if it is receiving a cold running temperature resistance then it will fuel for that condition and be off for a warm engine.
 
is it oily?

Although it looks like it it's not oily. The water in the pipe work was light orange with not signs of oil.

Plus, when I immersed the old CTS in hot water I couldn't get a resistance reading - that was enough proof it was past it's best.

I ran the car until warm (90 degrees), switched off and started again 20mins later (so still warm) and it fire first time without hesitation when normally it would almost splutter into life and after 4-5 cranks.




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Well..... having thought I'd cracked the hesitant starting issue it's reared its head again.

Just spent 3 days away I went to use the car today and it was struggling to turn over. Once I got it going it was fine - no flat spots, no loss of power in any part of the rev range. Drove about 8 miles came back 20 mins later and it did it again?

I'm starting to think it's either ignition or an air leak from an old fabric wrapped hose?

When it's struggling to start (on it's 4/5th crank) a small amount of throttle input helps it turn over.

Anyone else care to weigh in here? I'm well aware that a VCDS scan would point me in the right direction but I don't have it.





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Fuel pump?

I'm having starting/running issues myself at the minute. Just checking everything to do with the intake/evap and charge system. It's sometimes obvious that something is defective but I still haven't located the culprit but I haven't finished my interrogation yet.
 
Fuel pump?

I'm having starting/running issues myself at the minute. Just checking everything to do with the intake/evap and charge system. It's sometimes obvious that something is defective but I still haven't located the culprit but I haven't finished my interrogation yet.

Quite possibly? I assume you can hear it prime when you switch the ignition on? Is this fairly common on these cars for the fuel pump to pack up?

Here's what happens;



It just struggles to fire - looks at the revs. Normally they'll jump straight to 1-1.2k and settle.

What things have you checked?




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I checked the CTS tonight. It took me a minute to realise that those were range values for the two pairs of pins. Mine are 1.1kohm to 230 ohms and 2.4kohms to 465 ohms for hot water about 65 deg Celsius, it was rather hot but had been sitting fifteen minutes after being boiled.

The fuel pump is primed by the fuel pump relay after it is energised by the holding relay in the ECU. This happens after the ECU receives a signal after 13 rpm from the engine speed sensor g28.

I have replaced PCV valve, PRV, suction jet pump, tested the function of all the check valves and checked for split hoses all in around the intake manifold. Checked the N80 valve. Replaced the DV. Swapped out the MAF and the sensor in the intercooler. I think it's the one for intake temps and I still need to change the one in the manifold, MAP sensor. This was primarily to solve a fault code 17705 and poor AFR.

I was going to swap the FPR over tonight but didn't have fresh o rings or brake cleaner to flush the surrounding area before removing it in order to prevent dirt ingress.

I checked the fuel pump relay was energising components as it should do. Check out Quattro world website for a good schematics write up.

I am getting a replacement fuel pump second hand as it costs the same as a fuel pressure tester.

You engine does sound a bit flat like there is no spark or no fuel.
 
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I checked the CTS tonight. It took me a minute to realise that those were range values for the two pairs of pins. Mine are 1.1kohm to 230 ohms and 2.4kohms to 465 ohms for hot water about 65 deg Celsius, it was rather hot but had been sitting fifteen minutes after being boiled.

The fuel pump is primed by the fuel pump relay after it is energised by the holding relay in the ECU. This happens after the ECU receives a signal after 13 rpm from the engine speed sensor g28.

I have replaced PCV valve, PRV, suction jet pump, tested the function of all the check valves and checked for split hoses all in around the intake manifold. Checked the N80 valve. Replaced the DV. Swapped out the MAF and the sensor in the intercooler. I think it's the one for intake temps and I still need to change the one in the manifold, MAP sensor. This was primarily to solve a fault code 17705 and poor AFR.

I was going to swap the FPR over tonight but didn't have fresh o rings or brake cleaner to flush the surrounding area before removing it in order to prevent dirt ingress.

I checked the fuel pump relay was energising components as it should do. Check out Quattro world website for a good schematics write up.

I am getting a replacement fuel pump second hand as it costs the same as a fuel pressure tester.

You engine does sound a bit flat like there is no spark or no fuel.

Is there a chance it could be the engine speed sensor?

Whereabouts are the PCV (what does this stand for?), PRV and suction jet pump?

I have noticed a badly perished vacuum hose that runs from the intake manifold to the FPR - I've got some silicon hose on order.

What is the N80 valve and where is it located?

I'll whip the MAF out and give it a clean with IPA.

Where is the MAP sensor located?

I might change the FPR as a matter of course.

Where is the fuel pump relay located? Are fuel pumps quite expensive new?

I don't think it's the coil packs as it would run lumpy and sound horrible. I've only just changed the spark plugs.

Cheers mate


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dont touch the MAF unless you suspect its broken. Check fuel trims with VCDS. If it drives fine once running i wouldnt imagine its a MAF issue.

Some S4's seemed to have suffered a degredation in their fuel lines, which ends up clogging the FPR, so it might be worth removing it for a check.

It sounds like either a fuel supply issue, or a problem with the ECU sensing the engine cranking. Or maybe even an issue with the throttle body not opening the plate enough for idle control.
 
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oh and the AJL doesnt have the suction jet pump or PRV. Theres a few check valves and a PCV is the big round pancake valve that attaches to the turbo intake, however realistically those arent going to stop it starting.
 
oh and the AJL doesnt have the suction jet pump or PRV. Theres a few check valves and a PCV is the big round pancake valve that attaches to the turbo intake, however realistically those arent going to stop it starting.

Cheers for the education .

I'll whip the FPR off tonight and see what going on. Regarding fuel line degradation, I assume it would be lines that run under the car as they're exposed to elements more?

Is the fuel pump located under the boot carpet? Where is the fuel filter located and is it difficult to change? I can't imagine it's ever been done! Every (older) petrol car I've owned the fuel filter seems to get neglected.

I've got a very basic VCDS on an old laptop - just remember from when I owned my last b5 so I'll get that hooked up and see what it tells me.

If the ECU sensing is the issue what checks/things can I do to fix?

Cheers.




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i think its actually the short rubber sections that seemed to be deteriorating, perhaps due to ethanol in the fuel. The hard lines are aluminium and shouldnt really degrade.

I've probably got a fuel rail in the garage if you want one, i wouldnt go buying a new regulator, they're not usually something that will fail.

The filter is under the car near the drivers rear wheel. Its a ***** to get at and the securing nut is usually siezed in. I think removing the tank strap and levering the tank down a bit is the best way to get into it.

Remember these cars have no EML. So if you've not checked for codes that should be the first step!