iirc it says in the Audi handbook to keep a litre bottle in the glovebox just in case, or maybe I'm imagining it. In any case, my 3.2 drinks oil more or less the same regardless. Emmissions are spot-on.
Out of curiosity, which oil do you use?
Mundane job - changed fuel filter. bit of a fiddle but needed doing, can't remember when it was last done, years ago.
Loads of crud came out the old filter, seems to idle smoother now.
Come to this thread a bit late, but no plans to sell the B7.
Just a question of finding the time to do the regular maintainance (and mods ;-) ) required of any older car.
hello mate, welcome to the forum.
like yourself I've got the B7 A4 3.2 quattro, and much as the S and RS might be tempting I keep on loving what I've got.
Performance is not bad, and on mine (320k km) changing the coil packs and the variable timing actuators/sensors was a revelation.
Just...
Yep, I've ordered from ECS around a year back and they delivered promptly with no hold-ups.
Then I got the email from the courier saying I owed customs + duty charges which were surprisingly steep. VAT is 20% here in France.
But - it was still cheaper to order the item I wanted, from ECS...
Hi - I have a similar avant to yours, and am prob going to go Eibach Pro.
In a perfect world I would go H&R 45mm drop based on the reviews seen on the forum here. But the roads here are rough.
With that, I've some Bilstein B8 waiting plus I got the mounting rubbers and shortened bump-stops...
The level can on occasions take a few goes to steady, as any airlocks bleed out, but as the other poster says, should be checked as somewhere between min/max when cold. Which may exceed max level when hot.
Switch on heating to full but with air con off (ie Econ mode), plus some models have a bleed screw near the back of the bay to help bleed out any airlocks. Might be an idea to change the filler cap too if that was not provided with the new expansion tank fitted.
If you have variable timing on the TDI then there will be cam adjusters triggered by oil pressure fed actuators which change the cam position accordingly. The actuators are easy to change (on petrol engines at least, not sure about diesel).
Yes had this just yesterday also on RHS light and fixed with a squirt of contact cleaner to the plug connector that plugs into the light unit. The connector to the rear light unit corrodes, resulting in bad earth hence all three bulbs appearing to go at once. A squirt of WD40 may do the trick or...
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