Recent content by Bbflex

Yea I had a mare setting up the VNT turbo on mine recently, I had to make an EMP gauge set up and log EMP as I had to reset the set screw as well.

When I dropped the sump on mine I had the box off and jacked the engine up using a engine hoist, I was replacing the rear main seal so box came off anyway, I may have unbolted the ARB for better access to the bolts but that was it. I changed the sump on a c5 1.9tdi not long ago and I did that...

That’s for 2g high, and it doesn’t work on the low system :)

yea I’ve read nearly every how too, none of them explain how to get 2g basic plus to either show the secret menu, or display the AUX output on the menu.

Sorry for delayed response, but are you referring to wiring a AUX input into the DSP amp? As far as I’m aware as long as I have the dsp amp I should be good to go? Thanks.

Anyone know how to either activate the hidden menu on the 2g basic plus system or get the AUX option on the screen? move been trawling for ages through threads, but nearly all are dead ends, one thread said to add 64 too the adoration channel 1 and it just brought up the batter meter and TPMS...

The B7 RS4 clutch is a stronger unit anyway, and you could use an aftermarket LUK clutch and it’ll be stronger than the b5 option. I’ll be fitting a b7 clutch in my S4 next I reckon as it’s a good strong OEM unit.

Don’t burn out the crud on a cast manifold with flaps like I did it melts the soft metal bushings I used caustic soda on my 3.0tdi inlet on the A8 it worked very well.

https://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?t=117463

I done mine on my back, it’s not too bad, I did the hex key in the sump and RMS as it had been split by previous owner. I do use a gearbox jack though, without it is just a ball ache. these C6’s aren’t too bad, disconnect cat and DP section, unbolt driveshafts, slave cylinder and gear linkage...

No they don’t fit iirc, and they have the gubbins for child lock which the front door doesn’t have.

In the past the only cure is to replace the lock usually, I’ve had the locks apart and you can try and grease and free it all up but you’ll have to strip it down to it’s components, then test it before putting the door back together.

whats the code on the sticker either in your service book or spare wheel well?

I’ve rebuilt a compressor on a merc with one of those kits and it worked great.

New lock mechanism most likely. that’s if the door is all aligned correctly. have you tried spraying WD40 into the lock itself?