Recent content by George Kost

This is for sure a problem. You did a measurement with that loom disconnected correct? Directly on the pins of the module. Pins 8 and 11. So if you have correct voltage to the module, and the module provides correct voltage to the front loom, but not correct voltage to the back loom, then...

On vcds you can see all 10 sensors on measuring blocks. Not sure in this case where the system does not work yet! You should add PLA! Your TT is almost an A3!! :)

And if you have power to the connectors of the sensors, do the audio test with your phone as well! It is a bit tricky to position the mic at the sensor but you will understand when you do it!

If you set the multimeter to 20v, then it will count up to 20. So you are ok. If tor example you would want to measure something 50v, then you should change the dial to higher voltage. Some multimeters are AUTO. Anyway. Each sensor has 3 cables. 12v power (pin 1), signal (pin 2)...

Fuse slot 5 is the one I used too. First row. See the yellow cable. Check with the multimeter if there is 12v with the ignition off or not.

The sound trick works on any sensor that gets power. Any car. Check this at 3:15 https://youtu.be/0dooytSUOnc?si=8rPGSD9r_IKT6o2x I also got mine from AliExpress. One of them got burned really fast and bought second had originals from eBay as well.

I wired mine on an ignition fuse. Not an always on fuse. This will also solve your drain probably. The ground screw should be good. I did the same. If no ground were there or a bad contact at the screw, you wouldn’t hear the long beep! It means that the power is probably ok. The bad think...

Did you replace just the motor or all the whole motor assembly? I had the same issue and as soon as I changed the whole assembly, the issue was resolved! You can remove the fuse from the fusebox to stop the motor until your next move!

keep us updated please!

I have the same engine, and same error each summer! Especially when the air-con is on. So here in Greece, I have this error the last 3 summers, from say May to September! The car has now 165k km. The car was bought used at 140k km, and according to its book service, it is supposed to have the...

Sorry for the late reply. So your original buttons was like mine where each button has each own connector. Why don't you just buy the missing buttons and use your old unit? New buttons are ~25€ new I think. I found used 10€ each. Sorry I don't have the wiring diagrams that you are looking for.

Check this Dropbox link here. You can see where I got the high/low cables! Post in thread 'Retrofitting PDC (Park Distance Control) + PLA (Park Lane Assist)' https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/retrofitting-pdc-park-distance-control-pla-park-lane-assist.417456/post-3619218

I used 0,5mm for all looms and didn’t have any issues. I am not electrician, but I suppose that it might be a problem if you used smaller diameter and probably for the power wires.

You should already have those cables if you already had atleast one button on the right side of the hazard button. So in your connector of the buttons, named T10ac, pin 3 is when the lights are on, so the buttons are illuminated. (green/blue color) pin 1 is the ground for illumination etc...

Check here: Post in thread 'Retrofitting PDC (Park Distance Control) + PLA (Park Lane Assist)' https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/retrofitting-pdc-park-distance-control-pla-park-lane-assist.417456/post-3580509 in this Zip file there is a file called wiring. Page 3 show your case where all...