No? I'm trying to flare the steel part to go straight into the flexi like original?
If i extended the steel pipe with a bit of copper pipe I'd still have the problem of trying to flare the steel pipe to join the copper?
I'm changing the rear flexi brake hoses, the union to the steel pipe is heavily corroded.
See pics below, (Fig 5) is the flexi hose, (fig 3) is the steel pipe.
I've had to cut the old joint away due to being corroded to death.
I am now trying to flare the pipe fig 3 to attach back into the...
That's a decent price. I had the inlet manifold off when i was weighing up the belt and tensioner on mine. That's why I thought it would be doable with the front end on.
I like to make things hard for myself so I'd leave front end on if possible lol. If you remove the fan and cowling does that give enough room for access?
I imagine as it's common rail that the belt is easy to replace and no timing is neccessary. It should be a case of removing the cover and replacing the belt and tensioners.
If you have an iPod connector lead in the glove box, i attached a Bluetooth transmitter to it and can play music through my original head unit. 2006 a4 b7
Completed the job today. Did all 6 seals. Jesus the right bank is a ball ache to get to. Had to remove the Y piece intake to get to the rocker bolts.
Suprised at how much difference it has made, quitened right down now, 3 out of 6 of the seals were passing
Im thinking of blocking the hole with a small piece of rag. The copper washer is only a piece of it left and its so thin i might just ream it away with the seat cutter n then get hoover with small tube in the hole to get rid of the mess before pulling the rag out
So i managed to get the injectors out. But theres a bit of a problem. The injector that was chuffing has split the copper washer in 2. 1 half came out on the injector, the other stayed down the hole. I planned on recutting the seat but how do i get the remaining half copper washer unstuck from...
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