Which oil for transfer/bevel box?

wuta3

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As title really.

The 8Y and RSQ3 have a service interval on the oil in the transfer box. The 8V doesn't, it is supposed to be lifetime, but the oil can evap and ... well, we should probably change the oil reguarly based on what I have scoured off the forums.

Anyone know which oil it'll take?

Cheers
 
As title really.

The 8Y and RSQ3 have a service interval on the oil in the transfer box. The 8V doesn't, it is supposed to be lifetime, but the oil can evap and ... well, we should probably change the oil reguarly based on what I have scoured off the forums.

Anyone know which oil it'll take?

Cheers

It was VAG G052145S, it took less than 1L to fill the transfer box to just below the fill hole (for my rev H box). Also required 2 bolts to replace the fill/drain.
 
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Don’t forget the rear one


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It was VAG G052145S, it took less than 1L to fill the transfer box to just below the fill hole (for my rev H box). Also required 2 bolts to replace the fill/drain.
AFAIK that is the same oil as for the rear diff (not haldex) so makes sense. ETKA has it needing 980ml so about right. At least the H-rev box it a bit easier to fill :grinning:

I was going to pick up a bottle next week from the stealers to see what they give me.

Out of interest did you measure how much came out? What colour was it?
 
AFAIK that is the same oil as for the rear diff (not haldex) so makes sense. ETKA has it needing 980ml so about right. At least the H-rev box it a bit easier to fill :grinning:

I was going to pick up a bottle next week from the stealers to see what they give me.

Out of interest did you measure how much came out? What colour was it?

Pretty sure my rear diff got done when the Haldex was done. I've got a spare bottle of oil and 2 plugs (if they're the same) so I might do it anyway. I think the drain plug is a long bolt though.

I have no idea what ETKA is on about, my front box took around 750ml using an oil fill syringe. Basically filled it until it just kept exiting the fill hole and let it drain level. Hopefully there wasn't a load of air trapped in there preventing a proper fill.

I didn't measure what came out, but the colour looked fine, basically the same as the oil I put in. I think less than 500ml came out, by eye.

I decided to change my front diff oil due to grinding / crunchiness under low speed engine braking. It resolved that issue, and generally reduced front axel NVH.
 
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I didn't measure what came out, but the colour looked fine, basically the same as the oil I put in. I think less than 500ml came out, by eye.

I have read at least one with bevel box issues having low oil must be either through underfilling or evaporation or weeping etc. 400ml ish is what I read was drained. The fact it has quietened it down is telling.

I have no idea what ETKA is on about, my front box took around 750ml using an oil fill syringe. Basically filled it until it just kept exiting the fill hole and let it drain level. Hopefully there wasn't a load of air trapped in there preventing a proper fill.

Looking at it again using ErWin the 0CP box is listed as 800ml so should be fine. I think 980ml is the rear or maybe the Haldex, 0A6 bevel box is 900ml
 
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I have read at least one with bevel box issues having low oil must be either through underfilling or evaporation or weeping etc. 400ml ish is what I read was drained. The fact it has quietened it down is telling.



Looking at it again using ErWin the 0CP box is listed as 800ml so should be fine. I think 980ml is the rear or maybe the Haldex, 0A6 bevel box is 900ml

The bottle is "estimated 1L" but looking at the level window, I think it is around 980ml in a bottle ... so in other words, ErWin lists "one bottle" perhaps. Either way, I had around 1/4 of the bottle left combining the bottle and what was left in the syringe. It was slow going as the fill hole faces a face of the casting. I think there was around 1/2 inch between the fill hole and hitting the casting. Push oil in too hard and it'll exit the fill hole pretty easily before settling down the small channel. Slow and steady.

There was absolutely nothing coming from the seals/bearings and the housing was clean, so I don't think weeping was an issue for me. Who knows how they lose oil, but I wouldn't want to lifetime that ... not a chance ... not after feeling the front drive NVH difference.

For reference my box had ZSB0CP.409.053 debossed on it and a "H" stamped on.
 
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Certainly pays dividends to over service these cars, especially considering what a new bevel / transfer box would cost to replace vs 1 hr of your time plus fluid cost.


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The bottle is "estimated 1L" but looking at the level window,
That's not what the 'e' means, it means it has been measured according to EU rules :tonguewink: it better have 1L in the bottle at that price.

G052145S2 is what they gave me for front and back diffs. Drain and fill plugs are the same for all 4 holes

For genuine stuff the stealer was about the cheapest (quite a few places advertising a good few quid over the dealer price plus delivery on top). I prefer to keep a lot of things genuine with Audi receipts even though I have no doubt the Febi oil would do just as well.
 
That's not what the 'e' means, it means it has been measured according to EU rules :tonguewink: it better have 1L in the bottle at that price.

G052145S2 is what they gave me for front and back diffs. Drain and fill plugs are the same for all 4 holes

For genuine stuff the stealer was about the cheapest (quite a few places advertising a good few quid over the dealer price plus delivery on top). I prefer to keep a lot of things genuine with Audi receipts even though I have no doubt the Febi oil would do just as well.

Well you learn something new every day!

I thought the rear diff drain plug was a longer bolt? I have 2 spare ones from when I did the front and a spare L of oil hah!
 
I thought the rear diff drain plug was a longer bolt?

No that is the Haldex drain that is the long bolt. Be careful you don't mix them up. Quite a common thing is to drain the rear diff and fill the Haldex, quite a lot of rear ends ******** in haldex cars by this, even from main dealers.
 
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Yeah I can't even find the details for the rear diff in my MASSIVE pile of Erwin PDFs
 
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Yeah I can't even find the details for the rear diff in my MASSIVE pile of Erwin PDFs
RS3 is a bit thin on many things in ErWin I think they do it on purpose. I don't have that section either, it should be in "Propshaft_and_rear_final_drive"

I use a combination of manuals for other cars (Rear diff is similar to Golf R) and youtube vids. If they are shot well with a good cam you can see all you need :icon thumright:

Rear plugs are 15nm same as front
 
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Well I did mine today after 30k and 700ml came out and I put 750ml back with a bit of weepage so level was about OK. Same seemed to apply to the rear diff too although I didn't check it as accurately.

What was concerning was the colour. Rear diff oil was darker than the the fresh oil but not by much and still transparent. What came out of the front was black, even torch light wouldn't go through it. Huge difference considering the boxes do basically the same job.

Makes you wonder what goes on in that front transfer box to hammer the oil like that.

If you haven't done it yet then get it done, I did mine on a lift but I see no reason you couldn't do it on axle stands with right front wheel and under tray off. 300ml syringe makes life easy but as above slow and steady is the key :icon thumright:
 
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Well I did mine today after 30k and 700ml came out and I put 750ml back with a bit of weepage so level was about OK. Same seemed to apply to the rear diff too although I didn't check it as accurately.

What was concerning was the colour. Rear diff oil was darker than the the fresh oil but not by much and still transparent. What came out of the front was black, even torch light wouldn't go through it. Huge difference considering the boxes do basically the same job.

Makes you wonder what goes on in that front transfer box to hammer the oil like that.

If you haven't done it yet then get it done, I did mine on a lift but I see no reason you couldn't do it on axle stands with right front wheel and under tray off. 300ml syringe makes life easy but as above slow and steady is the key :icon thumright:

I imagine the stresses that go through that front transfer are huge, considering it’s the main converter of torque to the propshaft.

I always think the rear diff isn’t having as ‘hard time’ because it’s only receiving a percentage of torque and not the full hit all the time.


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I imagine the stresses that go through that front transfer are huge, considering it’s the main converter of torque to the propshaft.
I always think the rear diff isn’t having as ‘hard time’ because it’s only receiving a percentage of torque and not the full hit all the time.

Yeah that's what I was thinking too, bit like the centre diff/transfer box on conventional 4x4 systems that is always the one to go and I over-service the diff oils on them too.
 
Picture says a thousand words

Oils

New oil, rear diff, front diff, guess which one............
 
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Haldex next, before and after

Haldex


Audi claim to have changed this oil 3000 miles ago :whistle2:

Thankfully pump gauze was clear but a small bit of tell-tale green sludge around the edge of the pump
 
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Haldex next, before and after

View attachment 272570


Audi claim to have changed this oil 3000 miles ago :whistle2:

Thankfully pump gauze was clear but a small bit of tell-tale green sludge around the edge of the pump
Ewww. Mine was more like honey coloured when I drained the front transfer at 45k miles or so. It was factory oil too.
 
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Interesting turn up for the books, left one of the samples sitting to see what happened and it began to settle, has not moved from this for a while so I think it is done settling.


Haldex oil 2 months


I can only think the oil did its job and kept the debris in suspension. I guess when the oil becomes saturated or old the stuff is deposited as the sludge we see.

Either way changing the Haldex oil properly (from around the pump) and regularly can't be a bad thing.

Had it tested and no fresh oil in that Haldex unit despite having been charged for a Haldex fluid change 3000 miles previous.
 
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