Audi A4 B7 2.0 TDI BRE Engine Boost issues

AdamXR340

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Hi everyone, this will be my first post on the site so thank you in advance to anyone who can help.

My car, a 2008(57 plate)Audi A4 Avant B7 2.0 TDI with engine code BRE. I'm currently facing issues of boost/air flow issues.

Issue:
With All electrical sensors connected, the car is extremely underpowered, however does sometimes(unable to replicate) spring back to life and have full boost.

What steps I've taken:
I first purchased OBDEleven pro pack, I was using this to clear codes and see live data. I could see, using live data, the boost pressure actual and specified. When the car is not working correctly(issue above) the specified boost pressure remains sort of capped, no matter how much I put my foot down, it hangs around 1570mBAR and the specified follows suit. When I let me foot off the accelerator, the specified goes down as does actual. However when the car springs into life, now this could be at any point at any throttle position, the specified will increase as normal as will the actual.

Now, I've also looked at the MAF sensor readings and found the, when the issue is happening, the MAF sensor live data appears capped, same as the boost pressure. Same again, when it springs into life, the MAF reading shoot up in a normal manor and the car pulls away.
990
With the car being fairly dangerous being how slow it is when the issue is happening(90% of the time) I decided to unplug the MAF sensor, this would also act as another test. The car, with the MAF unplugged, works fine, boosts fine etc etc. It does run lumpy and not as powerful but this is to be expected, the key point I'm making here is that the car boosts and responds to my inputs just fine with the MAF unplugged.

I have tried 1 new MAF, cheap one, and 3 used but tested and working Bosch MAF sensors, the issue is still present in all tests.
I have tried a new MAP sensor, same issue.
The EGR is blanked off but not mapped out. - - - I have a new remapped ECU which I need to install but wanted to get this issue sorted first

I have just bought a Bluetooth multimeter to test the wiring for the MAF sensor with some wire piercing probes. The reason for the Bluetooth is the car appears fine at stand still but the issue is present when driving so would be good to see MAF voltages when driving.

Forgot to mention, no fault codes are logged when the MAF is plugged in. Only one that comes up is the EGR fault which is due to it being blanked off.

I will get a video of the live data and show what I mean because I don't think I explained it well
 
you are experiencing LIMPMODE ... check the turbo actuator, move the rod with your finger it should be easy to move and smooth all the way up. if it doesn't do that than you have a dirty VNT mechanism and it needs to be cleaned... something you should have done when you disabled the egr. Most people think it's enough to disable the egr to not get a sooted and gummed up intake but most forget the PCV will still add it's hot air, complete with misty oil, back into the intake and this will find it's way to the left over soot that's everywhere from the previous working EGR system. Longstory short, clean the VNT mechanism and power will be restored. Best solution take of the intake, turbo, all the boostpipes and intercooler and wash the lot clean. (you'll be amazed at the amount of oil and soot you'll find in it, and yet the car still manages to start up) Also clean the MAP & MAF sensor while you are doing the cleaning. Use some warm soapy water and a hair dryer(set to luke warm) to dry them. You don't want to use an electrical cleaner nor brake cleaner as they remove the protective coating from the sensors, leading to an early dead to those 2 sensors.

If the actuator rod moves freely, check the duty cycle of the following 3 valves ( N75, N18, N249) the N75 is the one you are most concerned about as that one is the one that is responsble for the boost. The other 2 are probably still connected right ? if yes make sure the vacuum system is completely closed. Disabled the EGR right? So you disabled the N249 valve? Make sure the vacuumpipe that connects to the egr valve is plugged. if it isn't well there might be your problem. another problem could be a leak/crack on one of the vacuumpipes... but if you are planning on upping the power it's best to replace the lot with silicone vacuum lines... they are way bettter in every way so if you haven't done it yet, get yourself 5 meters of silicone vacuumline with a 3mm ID (costs about £10) and replace them all. This way you eliminate any leaks in the vacuum circuit. and after al this the lot should be fine.
 
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Thank you! lots to try there. I will get back in a could of days with the results.

Thanks again
 
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Got some good news. I read everything you said and decided to tackle the easiest things first. You mentioned about the actuator for the EGR valve, I didn't know it had one, I thought just a blanking plate and call it a day. That being said, throughout all my testing, that has been one thing that hadn't changed. I decided to go out and remove the blanking plate(Engine was still hot so burnt my hand :)), cleared the codes and took it for a spin. The smile on my face when I had consistent boost and live data readings.

It does beg a question though. How do I go about blanking the EGR then? I want to keep it all there for whenever I sell the car but would like to use the blanking plates. Do you have a picture and possibly instructions on how to remove/disable the actuator and prevent this issue from happening again?

Thank you again for pointing me in the direction, it has lifted a weight off my shoulders since this has been going on for over a month now.
 
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I will still be doing all the cleaning etc just wanting to know how to do it properly. Thanks
 
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The blanking plate is fine the problem is the vacuum that connects to the egr electronic valve.. find it and plug it. That should do the trick. Also your car might also have a check if the valve is operating in the ecu... if it does it will have to be mapped out. (Turned off in the map) something you can't do with vcds nor obd11 just so you know.

In other words: if you blank the egr off, plug the vacuumpipe and if it acts up again you'll need to have it turned off in the ecu. Most remapped ecu's have it turned off but best to ask the place you got the ecu from.
 
Yes, I got the ECU with DPF and EGR removed. Just messaged the guy, he said blanking plate will be fine as the ECU will not request the valve to open at all. Seems like the problem will be sorted and EGR blanked.

Going to order new gaskets and will get the intakes cleaned.

Thanks again for your help.
 
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