Wow brad you said that without moving your lips. Its your build mate, your car, your money, make your own decisions and don't be led by those who've never been there and done it. I'm not going to enter into this discussion any further, you asked a question and I gave my opinion based on my...
All looking good dude.
Just to add my two penneth, I would go for a T3 turbo anything less just isn't worth the expense or ball ache of building such a beast. If you want it to be properly quick you can't go conservative.
Thanks for that Mark, much appreciated. Believe me I tried very hard to...
I wouldn't bother with the eBay monkey metal manifold, there not fit for purpose if you ask me. Whilst you could weld it WHEN it cracks, you will only make it prone to cracking in the heat affected zone of the weld repair and thus will be forever welding it! Only my thoughts but its got ball...
Cool cool, sounds like your good to go then dude. I think the clearance issues are well known with I.E rods but I'm unsure with others, I do know that the rod shape/design dictates whether a bore notch is required. The other thing to be sure of is the cylinder 4 oil jet has plenty of clearance...
No worries.
2-3mm is plenty so no prob's there.
What clearances have you measured at the crank mains & big ends?
When I said get the crank polished not to make it shiny but to square the journals up, if you plastigauge the bearings you will see there probably not that flat, that ABF crank has...
I'm guessing you haven't managed to rotate your rods through 360 yet on the stroker crank? It tends to be which rods you use that dictate the bore notch, just don't run anything too close, stuff becomes quite floppy when your spanking it, it was strongly recommended to me by Pete at Integrated...
I have some that will give you an idea, its not for the faint hearted lol, I think it also depends which rods you use. Have you got someone lined up to grind your intermediate shaft? I think it needs roughly 5mm off the back side of it.
The crankcase walls also need taking back slightly...
Just had a quick catch up, looks like you've had a hard time of it mate, still it looks like your getting there now hey! I hope the ECU swap gives you what you need, I take my hat off to you pal, my patiences would have run out long ago, credit to you for sticking with it :hi:
The easy answer is yes, but it won't look very OEM more racecar if you like. Google steering quickener. Not sure I would use one though
Link-
Steering Quickeners - Racing Parts and Products
Do the RS4 lower arms not mount in the outboard hole in the subframe? I always thought so as running RS4 bits then requires spacers between the gearbox flanges and the inner CV so I assume its not just the wheels, but could be wrong.
Check the coil pack wires, they tend to get a tad brittle over the years and can cause the most annoying intermittent faults, have you checked the TPS is reading ok? Sounds to me like a wiring issue over a sensor issue. If you've ever taken a loom apart you will know that all the grounds...
...to be a proper beast! I feel for you man. At that price I'm surprised you haven't had your arm ripped off.
For the record, torque kills boxes not horsepower. It's all about having some sympathy when you shift while driving hard. If you intend to launch it for all its worth your gonna break ****.
No worries dude.
Only just clocked this is an old one! I can't keep up. I rarely visit this forum these days so my apologies. £4K for a turbo kit with tuning is absolutely nuts. If your crafty its astonishing how reasonable it is to put a car together, its never cheap but it comes down to how...
Having actually built a 400+hp A4 TQS, my advice would be to really think long & hard now about how you will tune the car with a larger turbo fitted, this will be the big headache part of the build. Other things to consider regards weak points are, Rods as Aragorn has said, the timing belt...
Aye tis a bit rich under boost atm, I've just upped the fuel pressure and reset the fuel map to resolve a part throttle driveability issue & still working on the full boost load cells, log, tweak, log, tweak takes a while to dial it in properly & since its safer to run rich than lean, I tend to...
Hate to say it but £2500 won't really scratch the surface, these Audi's are not the easiest/cheapest cars to make truly fast. Have to agree with LeeT, the S4 would have been a better option but you better be a dab hand at removing engines lol.
There are some fairly hefty brackets either side you need to pull the bumper off from the body, then there are some bolts under the boot carpet to remove so the bumper brackets can slide out of the chassis rails. Those bumper mounts hold onto the bumper like a mofo, you will damn near leave your...
If you lived a bit closer I would be willing to strap my 034EFI & loom on there and show you how easy it would be to get it all dialed in, I think you would very quickly see the simplicity of the standalone and obviously the instant gains by doing so, it was the reason I went standalone right...
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