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Sounds like a wiring issue. Have you tested the wiring?

Without modification overboost has the "potential" to kill engines - excessive pressure from the turbo -> excessive pressure in the cylinder -> conrod/piston take the pain. That said, I don't know the figures for over boost on a vanilla setup with the waste gate capped.

If your changing oil and filter stick a flush in first.

That didn't log boost faults on the S3?

Have you tried tightening the 13mm? The wiper arm should be round-it tightens on to a tapered spline.

Going by most people's definition of straightforward..probably not. Corrosion of will be you biggest potential problem to overcome. Having a workshop at your disposal is recommended.

The above assumes it's a hard fault...although, it's always nice to know your air mass' peak voltage ;) If your VCDS guy can clear the fault, see how you get on before cracking out the scope.

"Signal too low" is the result of the actual airflow, as sensed by your air mass meter, being less than the predicted amount when compare to the map. A primary function of the air mass meter is to monitor the operation of the EGR valve, essentially providing closedloop feedback. So for...

System is happy then. If you haven't noticed drop in MPG, all is well (probably). Plausibility check may be a bit slow if the MIL behaviour is different than before. To be sure everything is okay, would be worthwhile having a tech look at the relevant measuring blocks with a scan tool.

Does this DPF light go out upon starting?

UV light damages the lenses over time. This produces fine crazing in the lens which appears misty. Polishing can sometimes help with this to restore a satisfactory beam pattern. The other main cause of misting is of course moisture inside the lamp that can't escape. In this case either excessive...

There's a bunch of them, but its likely only one will be causing your issue if the noise is local to the glovebox area. If I recall correctly the glovebox-area actuator is the most accessible...some of the other central ones are a nightmare of a dash strip-down. PM full VIN if your needing any...

Sounds like an HVAC flap actuator gear has dislocated.

I get sound.

Yes, if you are going to go the extra mile and route the purge pipe out of harms way with a hose, then you can leave the purge valve connected (electrically) to keep the ECM happy. Your attention to detail here is admirable but don't get carried away modifying your engine bay for a "quick test" :D

Personally, I think if you are able to securely cap the intake, then yes, that's safe to drive. If it's not secure or comes free when driving, pop the pipe back on to the purge valve to get you home and re-think.

You're gonna need something that's a good fit as you want it to hold while you test over a number of days. You don't want it falling off as that will cause on hell of an air leak. We have the luxury pro kits here so unfortunately I can't advise on a good "make-shift" alternative. Goes without...

Ideal. Remove the purge valve and cap off the manifold-side pipe. Don't cap off the tank side - this can vent to atmosphere like the bad old days (just make sure it's not pointing towards exhaust manifold or anything hot). Pipes are the hard plastic type so clamping not an option, capping only...

It effects starting due to tank vapour being added to the mixture at the wrong time, i.e. starting. I'd first blank off the evap input to the intake (of course capping of the manifold as required to prevent air leak) and see if this remedies your intermittent hard starting - this may log an evap...

It is i'm afraid. If you PM full vin i can pull some info for you. Intermittent faults....tell me about it! :S Something else to try is blanking EVAP (though this is normally sunny-day-related, but worth a shot for sure). They purge valve can f-up and mess up mixture...most noticeable during...