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It's a big job and yes quite a commitment as you can't stop midway, I actually took a week off work for it [emoji23] I doubt the new headlight switch would work with the CECM as there must be internal differences to account for the extra connector. To be honest it's not that important, if you...

HBA is good rather than brilliant, but I like it. It's mostly accurate, I have to cancel it manually occasionally. Yes I have a white cluster, the red one doesn't support it, so though HBA still works, it's hard to know if it's on or not

I'm not sure about that info but like I say I'm going by the TT. I'm also using Elsawin which allows you to select the model year etc Yes I've had it all fitted and functional for probably 2 years now and had no issues

In relation to my TT it is SC15, which is the fusebox at the end of the dashboard, and should be 15 amp. It might differ for the A3 though

The first digit is an eight 8 The X at the end means it's an exchange unit so would have been repaired by Audi after a replacement at the dealer, probably under warranty. Hence also the reman sticker This is an early RNSE, non PU version. This means a slower processor, lower resolution screen...

I believe the details are in the main guide thread on here. I don't have it in my car ATM

Have you enabled the adaptation for PLA in your ABS module? Just wondering if that could be the issue

The canbus wiring sounds correct Well I'd say swap the sensors and then go from there. The fault codes indicate an electrical fault, which is either the wiring or the sensors You've checked the wiring so really it only leaves the sensors

The uninitialised message must mean you have a brand new module fitted? Or if not there is no harm accepting the VCDS defaults It is possible the module is cutting power to the sensors because of the fault I would definitely fit the OEM ones as AliExpress stuff is generally rubbish, and go...

I'd have to look at the measuring blocks for mine In your screenshot it says 1.1 volts. Is that for a particular sensor?

Do those figures change when there are objects in the way? 255 sounds very coincidentally like the max value of a byte so wondering if it's just defaulting to that if there's an issue

I plan to but I need to change the steering rack for it!

I'm not sure what measuring blocks the PDC module has but might be worth having a look. It might have each sensor individually listed. I don't have PLA on my TT, only 8 sensors, but I have a MK6 Golf with factory fitted PLA I could compare with

Not that I know of. Just check the pos and neg of each preferably while connected. If you get approx 12v at the right pins then the wiring is ok. I say while connected as many electrics in these cars self check and there's a chance the power would be cut off if it detects open circuit

No that's fine, if it has power with it running it will have power with ignition only also but closer to the 12 volts region

Negative means you have the positive probe on the negative cable/earth Fluctuating around that voltage is normal when the alternator is charging the battery. I assume you had the engine running at the time?

Summed up exactly as I was thinking

You need to put one probe in the use and the negative probe on an earth Both fuse pins will be at 12v if there is a fuse connected It sounds to me like a wiring fault to the sensors. What sensors are they? Anything from AliExpress raises red flags for me as who knows what it is To be honest...

To be clear, do you have 10 sensors wired in?

Is your RNSE retrofitted? I'm assuming it is, but it's not been added to the gateway. Can you add 37 navigation to the gateway, that should clear the incorrect coding fault