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Hmm I can still Bluetooth to the factory mod even though the cradle is no longer there. Shame it's not capable of streaming music

Looks like I'll need to do some digging there. On a separate note, any ideas what went here in terms of part numbers: I get it's some sort of phone prep just wondering if it's worth reinstating at all or bin it, replace the console and upgrade the stereo to some sort of touch screen affair?

Good to know chaps. I'll drop them a call. But not before this new issue found today is sorted. Diesel is leaking from or around the Diesel cooler pipes under the car. Anyone know if there are any O rings in the connections before I rule it to be a split flow or return pipe? A diagram of how...

Cheers I'm just down the road so will definitely check them out too

Yikes this forum has gone real quiet since I first used it with my S3...

Anyone any thoughts on fuel filter, keys, maps and cambelt as mentioned above? The manual says cambelt every 80k but silent on time. That would land this at needing one in 10k time purely on miles alone though I don't feel like rolling the dice.

New turbo to intercooler pipe arrived today, less than 24 hours than I ordered it. 34 quid is better than 200 which tps wanted for it: Here's the old one off. The split is clear to see: New one in place: And service: Goes like stink finger again.

Ok thank you that's good to know. I know ECP do an INA timing belt kit for these I'll need to enquire if it includes the modified stud. I've had a quote from TPS too for a genuine kit. Any ideas if they already contain an upgraded stud?

After owning a few B5s, a B6 and now a B7 2.0 TDI BRE engine I'm after some advice as follows: Bought for 1500 it's pretty much a trade deal. Has a known underboost fault which looks like to be a split turbo to intercooler pipe. A new one should be with me tomorrow. That aside, if that sorts...

Thanks, Colin. A very Merry Christmas to you and your family also

Just picked her up and yes she is all fixed. Apparently the auto electrician found a few duff connections to the ecu which were the cause of a few odd things from the starting cam sensor fault to the mooing fuel pump. That's as quiet as a mouse now. So all in the car stands me 789 inc purchase...

Some news today. Apparently she is finally running right. Auto elec said it was a bad connection to the ecu but as soon as that was sorted she ran right. Sound right?

From memory I did try this and it stalled. I threw the old one away last month unfortunately. I kinda wish I hadn't now though...

I installed one bought from ebay Germany. A reputable seller. When we operated it with the valve cover off, to check for oil lubrication, it appeared to operate correctly?

Anyone got a photo of the cams set at tdc and what position the cam hall sensor pick up (if you get what I mean) is in?

If that is the case then would it be a safe hypothesis that it is the inlet cam at fault as a) that's where the cam sensor takes its read and b) the timing mark on the cam pulley is spot on?

Are you saying that the camshafts are still not quite right I.e not in sync with each other as they should be?

When the camshaft sensor fault originally appeared the cam pulley had not been removed. The specialist has swapped out the cams since and the fault has remained. Each time its scanned the camshaft sensor fault shows up. We can clear it, take it for a drive and it reappears as soon as you switch...

Looks like the ecu may be ******. Is it better to buy a cheap unit from ebay (they all seem cheap) or send mibe away to be repaired by for example AC Limited?

Hi so checked for crossed wires and that all checks out. Mechanical cam timing, crank timing and timing on the chains look spot on. All the mechanic can think of next is dodgy wiring or ecu is at fault. He is going to do live data logging to see what the sensor is actually throwing out