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It could be that it was running rich with the bad sensor and now it has been replaced the ecu needs to relearn with the new sensor, this takes x amount of miles. You could try disconnecting the battery for half an hour, when reconnected the ecu will have been reset back to zero and it will...

Psi tuning sell poly bush top mounts, they're not made by powerflex but are still good no doubt. PolyBush Polyurethane Top Mounts (Pair) - Golf Mk4 etc + Lupo/Polo 6N/2 > Suspension > Golf Mk4 1998-2004 > VW Golf > VAG Specialists > PSI Tuning - VAG Specialists Edit: The S3 isn't listed for...

One problem I've had with JOM's is after six months the paint has come off all of the springs, now they are a rusty orange colour instead of blue. Maybe this is why they're so cheap! Other than that they're not bad but, if I was after looks as well as function I'd go for something of a better...

Thanks for the info Liam. I've checked the fuses on top of the battery and the one for the fan is fried along with the holder, so it looks like it's that which is the problem. I'll get a fuse later on and i'll try and repair the holder for now as I won't be able to get one today and it needs...

Hi all, In this hot weather I've noticed that my car is overheating, the fan is kicking in at full speed but the low speed is not working at all. I have no idea where to start with this so what could the problem be? The car is a 1.8t agu is that makes any odds. Thanks.

No problem, as for the rest of the pipes, if they look like they've been on for a while then I would change them all just to be sure as 99% of my running problems have been down to the maze of vacuum pipes in the engine bay. Silicone hoses are the way forward if you don't mind paying a bit more...

That would be the vacuum pipe for the brake servo, I'd get it changed asap else you will end up in trouble if you need to slam the brakes on. It's a main dealer only part and it should have a part no on it somewhere.

You can't argue with that :laugh:. You've done me a favour with this thread, I'm going to take my crank sensor off now and give it a clean as it's probably filled with crap like the one you got from the scrappy. Not that it's giving me any trouble, although it did fail to fire up the other day...

You'll have to try it and find out, I got a maf from a scrappy over a year ago and that is still going strong. This place is very good and does offer a months warranty on all parts. It was a third of the price of a recon one too. I personally see nothing wrong as long as the price difference...

I agree with Prawn, I've got the 100mm ones on mine and when I tried to source a replacement I got sent one of the thinner ones off ebay which was wrong, I went to a motorfactors and they ordered me a thinner one too. I can confirm that the 100mm flanges are then wrong ones for your car and...

As has already been said you won't get much for it in it's current running state. The running issues could well be as simple as a split hose, the one under the inlet manifold would be the likely culprit and when it goes they do run like a bag of spanners in the way you're describing. As for the...

I've got a tool for oil filters that's served me well for years, there's not much room to get at the filter but you can get just enough to loosen it off to be undone by hand. Using the same bolts for the pick up will be fine, I didn't change mine. Here's a link for the tool, I got mine from...

No problem, I forgot to say once you've done it I'd give it a check in a couple of weeks, that locking nut may need nipping up again as it has the plastic lock on it, you might find that will melt away due to it getting hot down there. The nut will be fine after that.

The rod spinning won't affect the preload, the adjustment is on the threads so the closer the the nuts are to the actuator, the more preload you will have. It does look like the rod is bent in the first pic now you mention it, the only way I can see it affecting anything is if you can't get the...

That's what I would do, when it's done check the movement by hand, it shouldn't be slack and it should have some resistance but not too much so it's difficult to move by hand. In all honesty though like superkarl said, get it checked out by a professional just to be on the safe side. I'm sure...

Thanks Voorhees.

Hi all, I've been toying with the idea of getting another car recently. The current car is a 1998 A3 1.8T with a stage 1 remap which I've had for 3 years now. It's now 14 years old and is just shy of 170,000 miles, although it's running pretty much spot on. It's mot is up in a month, so when...

I think you're getting the wrong end of the stick, the actuator is set to 6 psi no matter whether it's a 150 or a 180. Think about it this way, say your car is a 150 k03 and you get it remapped to say 190, the actuator hasn't been touched so at 190bhp the actuator is still set at 6psi just like...

I had this problem when I changed my sump, as already posted you need the long flexi allen keys either on a socket like in the link or you can use allen keys, but you will need an extension bar for leverage. As for the sump itself, bad design in my opinion as I've smashed mine no less than four...

I'd just get another nut, bolt it back together and then use an air pump or bike pump to test the pipe to the actuator. If set correctly the actuator should open at 6 psi I believe. Whether it's a standard car or not 6 psi is the opening pressure of the actuator as the ECU uses the N75 valve...