That sounds normal to me - around 2000rpm - it's the two flexy joints - mine's exactly the same and has always been so.
There's plenty of info on Audizine here.... https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/749764-The-Unofficial-Aftermarket-Exhaust-2000-RPM-Vibration-Thread
You can alleviate...
Be careful with the silicone spray, if any gets on the brake pedal it could be lethal (slippy), too late now but hopefully you covered the pedal with a cloth first?
You could be lucky, difficult getting lube into the bearings for a permanent fix. Called the intermediate shaft part No. A8K2 419 753 F
Some pics attached, good luck!
Does it make the noise when you are not moving, just turning the steering?
There is a problematic universal joint right at the bottom of the steering column (near your toes)
Universal tie-rod on ebay works perfectly, this is a very common failure, no need to buy a replacement unit.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112241843105
Bit late for you, but just in case anybody else arrives here
There's a ton of info about test pipes on the USA Forum, you could try wrapping them ?
I know you think the wrap would get wet. If the test pipes were stainless, then corrosion wouldn't be an issue?
Link here...
I found this type of tool did the job perfectly by rotating the BODY (green arrows) instead of the T-bar to squeeze the piston back. It applies perectly square pressure.
@rum4mo I think you are getting confused with "self-adjusting" handbrake mechanisms as used on previous generations of "handbrake" cars with a cable.
What we are dealing with here is an "Electronic Handbrake"
The motor tightens the pad onto the brake disk and cuts out. When you release the...
You still need to squeeze the piston back into the caliper in the normal way using the old pad (but with no screwing/twisting).
Retracting the handbrake DOES NOT PULL the piston back - it only pushes!
If the centre torx is fully clockwise, then it is fully retracted, do not force it. Then you...
Audi did away with the dipstick but retained the tube for this purpose in their workshops.
@ninjag yes, just feed it straight down to the bottom of the sump. I cut a small angle on the tube so that it didn't suck flush on the bottom. Sucks oil like a straw, sump is designed to be used like this...
Don't want to open an argument, but I use an extractor now (same as the Dealer does). Dead easy, gets everything out, if you don't believe it, crack open the drain plug afterwards and see how much more you can get!
One of these...
This is a copy/paste of your post about this from last year (09/10/20)........
OK mechanic confirmed it's the bypass pipe that's leaking, not the thermostat housing
I repeat, "Are you certain the Thermostat was replaced?"
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