3/8” UJ & extension will get you in there no bother. There is a tool for removing the plug leads but if you get a good grip and maintain pulling force while rotating it will come free. Make sure you don’t just tug the lead.
Before getting in to the nitty gritty of switch status’ during operation, can you confirm exactly what code/s return after clearing then attempting roof open/close actuation? If there are switch plausibility codes, these must be processed first.
Might need the roof completely removed for access.
Component failure most likely but wiring faults are possible too - so be sure that this isn’t overlooked, especially if significant labour involved to expose.
Wow, that's a lot of bits.
Have you checked live data on fuel calculation sensors? If there's a violent misfire after changing all those bits it would be worth confirming valve timing.
Good man!
Word of warning. If the glow plugs are tight coming out, be very careful. If you snap one it's a major headache and a permanent dash fault until fixed.
Yellow plug means airbag. So you're not on the heater circuit. Heater pulls a few amps so expect heavy wiring.
Can you please explain this. No power at the motor doesn't indicate good motor integrity.
I'd suggest double checking and confirming that you're testing the correct circuits.
If...
Even with the comprehensive write-up and the correct tools, renewing a timing belt/kit on a modern vehicle is something I would dissuade even the keen ammeter from attempting. IMO having experience in completing this sort of work is essential and, with the number of variables involved and the...
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