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Its the nature of having such hard paint, that it chips more easily due to there being less 'flex' in the paint....yet is more resistant to light scratching and swirling. A happy medium would suit me better but its the nature of the beast I'm afraid. Ryan

I use lambs wool, the key to not marring the paint really lies in the amount of pressure you put on. You want to be as light as possible, some people tend to scrub rather than lightly wipe! let the mit do the work!! Ryan

Another bilberry user here!! once sealed, you don't even need 10:1......20:1 will do the job nicely with a couple of layers of wheel sealant on, so a 1 liter bottle of bilberry will make 20 liters of cleaner which is top value for me! Ryan

I get most of my stuff from www.elitecarcare.co.uk There are a few online retailers that will let you browse their stock, and 1 or 2 that have a shop, but it depends where abouts you live? Ryan

If its as bad as that....I think you may be better off with a respray:sign_omg: Mine was similar but not half as bad!! If you go on detailingworld.co.uk and search dr colourchip, you'll find before and afters, step by step guides etc Ryan

Cant really offer any advice on where to get a respray done ore what you should be paying but, it seems a little exreeme to me to want the front end sprayed for a couple of chips. My s4 was covered in 'gravel rash' on the front bumper and leading edge of the bonnet, and its something which i...

I'd stay well clear mate tbh. Even If you can only find 10 mins on a Sunday afternoon to give it a quick once over, you'll be saving your paintwork from a lot of damage. These places tend to use the same manky sponge for paint, wheels and whatever else they come across, and said sponges have...

I'd advise washing after every use to remove any bits of grit that may have been missed by the wash but picked up by the towel.....but they should be washed with non biological washing powder only, as biological does something to the micro bits of the fibres and reduces the amount of water it'll...

The key to geting it to last as long as possible is to make sure that the plastic is clean and free of old dressings first. Give it a good scrub with some all purpose cleaner, dry with a microfibre, and then apply your 303 and it should last as long as possible that way. Ryan

That dash doesn't look good at all!! Looks as though its been scrubbed with a scouring pad or something. Was the dash like that when you bought the car or has it happened since? If you want a shiney finish, I'd recommend aerospace 303 protectant, or for a matt finish poorboys natural look...

How many applications did you get out of your HD wax? The reason you may have found it hard to remove could be thet you apply it to thick? I made this mistake when I first applied colly, I used that much that I would have prob only got 5 layers on!!...and it was an absolute two-hat to buff...

I'v used the clay bar, but put a bit of soap in my water just incase. it worked a treat and was pretty cheap too! ryan

I'd definatly clean it first with some apc and a fairly sfiff brush, this gives the product a better surface to boind to and it'll last a lot longer. If the trim looks faded and sun damaged, you can heat it with a hot air gun and it'll turn back to its original colour without any dressing on...

my b6 a4 was like this.....I bought a new interior door handle from the dealers and it only came to about £8 so may be cheaper than you would think. was fairly easy to fit too:thumbsup:

Try either autosmart tardis...which gets rated very highly, I own a small bottle of, but I'm yet to use, Or auto glym glue and tar remover, which i also own and have used and confirm works a treat. The AG is easier to get hold of as its sold in halfords. Ryan

Its awesome stuff!! Smells good enough to drink aswell.....I always think it would go nicely on a 99 ice-cream! Cheap aswell...i diluted it at 10-1 and its still superb!