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So you've narrowed it down to being a mechanical fault (barring sensors). I don't believe there's any servicable parts in Haldex or diff so you'd better keep an eye out for a front ended TT.

Mechanic did the job but I did get charged for oil. I had no errors in vagcom saying the pump was dead but your pump is ok otherwise yourwheels wouldn't be locking up.

Best of luck! My car was two wheel drive for around six months until I replaced the pre-charge pump. This fixed the problem however now I get some slight locking of the inside rear wheel when driving very slow and on full steering lock. Probably not the same problem as yours but leads me to...

Thought you'd already swapped controllers. So you think the second controller was also a dud and now you're on your third?

I asked him the question but he wasn't any help with part number "You can find them on eBay or any automotive lighting website." Well I can't find them.....

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How'd you go with this problem? I'm getting my Haldex pre-charge pump replaced next week as it seems to be the most common point of failure when the symptom is - no fault codes. In your case, no power to the pre-charge pump I would have thought would throw a fault code.

The Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor (EGT) if not working will make your car run rich. It's there as part of the emission control allowing your engine to run richer only while cold. Try clearing the fault, if it comes back you should replace the EGT - ****** to get to (up near the turbo) and expensive.

Clear the fault code with VAG-COM.

What does your boost pressure in VAG-COM read? Log block 115 which will give you requested versus actual boost. This will tell you if your boost gauge is accurate.

I have the USB MP3 version of the Xcarlink and it works well. Here's the iPod version - http://www.xcarlink.co.uk/product.php?productid=6&cat=4&page=1

I'm no professional and it took me five minutes.

Many have tried and failed to fix this common problem. I bought a brand new switch from Ebay. It was for an A6 however the rheostat part of the switch is identical to the 8L S3. Looks like he's still selling them -...

I've just replaced mine. You have to remove the battery and the wires powering the bulb. The wire clip needs to be pushed in (towards the bulb) and at the same time pushed down. It's easy.

You sure that boost reading is accurate? Are you getting that from VAG-COM? I would have thought you'd strike limp mode with that much. If not you should be. Check out block 115 for requested and actual boost.

Sounds like the MAF has had it. You can safely unplug it to see if this fixes the chasing idle and flat spots. Once unplugged the ECU will assume a fall back setting for measuring airflow. If the ECU is still in OEM mode then 95ron is ok but it's still recommended to use 98ron with this...

Sorry to say it's going to be expensive. Head will have to come off so as to check the integrity of the 20 valves. Even though the car didn't have a lot of inertia at the time, chances are there will be bent valves. Not sure why the UK specifies such a high mileage before changing the cam belt...

WOW! Is your car the AMK 154kw facelift? If so how did you get the RNS-E to match the Soul Black dash? Edit: Sorry just noticed your sig - 03 = BAM 165kw and not Soul Black interior.

Any money it's the broken blue plastic bit that's in that guide which is your problem. It causes your symptom.

I replaced mine with an A6 switch. There always seems to be A6 ones on Ebay. You need to keep your original facia but the switch (combo rheostat) is the same. http://www.ozaudi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13301 the ebay link is gone in this thread but here's another one...