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Would tps know the key code on an old car like this? And lock smith can cut a key to that code so i dont have to break in?

Getting it recovered on tuesday to the garage i work at. How would i break into it? Thru the boot? Drill the lock and pull on the rods? Find the central locking pump and dose of air down the pipe to open the doors? Its not got fold down rear seats. Lock smith we use at work would need the lock...

Thing is time too. Cars sat in a multistorey car park in sheffield center. Guna be awquard to recover and theyre charging full rate of 5.50 for however long its there for. Have to ring tps on tuesday. Whats the turn around on getting a key shaft from them you think?

Unbolt the metal pipe bracket to the head and ease it past theres a bit of give in it if memory serves. The oil leak.. are you doing the gaskets under the chain tensioners too?

My ex's keys have been stolen with her handbag. Can only see a matching 1600 a4 lock set, key reader, key and engine ecu on ebay for a post facelift 2001 b5. Would all this be plug and play on a pre face lift early 98 a4?

i cant imagine spending (read wasting) the shear amount of time/effort it would take to do what your doing. im presuming there was a reason why you dont just fix/use the 99 1.9 tdi and get rid of the wheezing "adr" 20v one? id break both cars and just go out buy the one you want when youve...

your a bit far from me in sheffield!

sorry for not helping but, never convert a car to one you can just go out and buy!

mileage doesnt matter. once a car is over 10 years old........ condition/history counts first.

aslong as its been well looked after and the history is there with oil changes. mileage is irrelevent. theres a nice '99 5 door a3 1.8tq that comes into our garage only done 30 odd k. looks lovely on the outside, underneath is caked in rust!

where are you based? im more than familiar with these and can bring my well used timing tool kit with me. do you make good coffee?

and heres me thinking the quattro drivetrain was bullet proof!

the only "control" is the blue exciter wire on the back of the alternator. this comes from the instrument cluster, in the olden days to the battery light on the dash and goes live when running to extinguish the light. id check the continuity on this wire. cus if its broken (as on my neighbours...

its up to you at the end of the day. 1) maintain an old car thats hit rock bottom depreciation wise. or 2) buy a newer car thats still depreciating at 20% of its current value a year (and you still have to pay out to maintain it!!). where are you based? i can do these cambelts blind folded.

it'll be the motor itself mate. brushes will be worn, too worn to start itself turning. but it'll work on the motorway as when your doing 70 theres enuf air flowing thru the fan to actually turn it without needing power which starts the motor working when you actually switch it on. very easy to...

jesus that looks awfull. why would anyone buy such tat?? its a pity taste and style isn't something you can buy with money.

ah, any pictures? id be interested.

have you actually had it code read or checked the signal from the sensor yet?

pedal up and nipple loose, let it trickle thru under gravity, once fluid is seen at the nipple on the slave. then tighten the bleed nipple, leave the clutch pedal up for 10/15 minutes. pump the pedal up and down a few times. how does it feel? if not right. get your mate to hold the pedal down...

being that it comes on before the car even moves it cant be the pick up ring on the cv joint. get a multi meter and check the two wires inbetween the sensor and the abs pump/ecu. do you have vcds? can you check the actual values while driving? does the o/s/r sensor show 0 road speed while moving?