Search results for query: *

did you check the actual values on the position sensor with the diagnostics? doubtful its that tbh. vac leak or pcv valve more likely if you have no fault codes.

can you not buy a cd with engine noises on it to play thru the stereo?

ah, you didnt take the beam off with the bumper haha. you'll know for next time!

sounds like youve taken the bumper off all wrong. theres some t25 torx screws that hold the sh1t guards in the wheel arches. three nuts either side that hold the bumper to the wings. pull on the sides of the bumper outwards as its clipped into the wing. three undertray style screws under the...

mark with an acurate mark where the adjustment is now. loosen the cam pulley bolts off and set it using the tools. fit new cambelt etc. run it up and re-check the torsion value after, before refitting the front panel/top cambelt cover...... adjust as nessasary.

id chop it in. it'd be really bad luck if you replaced all these things then the chain in the back of the head let go. whatever the engine these b6's dont seem to age well without throwing lots of money at them. esp. the "awa" fsi engine.

belt noise? not unusal for a new belt rollers etc to be slightly noisy as it settles in. it'll either wear off or get worse. if its not disapeered in 100 miles or so then get it checked. better safe than sorry! could be something like a belt cover not fitted right. but you might be imagining it...

if i were you id go fill out a lottery ticket incase your luck hasnt run out just yet lol...............

i dont use my towball on my 100. very handy tho when reversing up to walls in car parks tho. best parking sensor ever! buy one of these. Clarke CON1050 Contractor Angle Grinder - Machine Mart bob the bumper off and chop the hitch off as close to the cross bar as you can.

oh dear. best to get a new belt on it, all timed up correctly then do a compression test. if the compressions seem fine then go ahead and build it up and start it. if the compressions arn't ok then its pretty pointless building it up as the relavent head will need removing to fit new valves...

its worth them checking the level tbh (once on a ramp its 5 minute job undoing the 17mm allen key level bung and poking your finger in) if they find its ok and its just an oil sweat/dampness and not dripping.... then id leave it tbh. could easily do 10k and the condtion of it not change.

low airmass readings because the turbo's not pulling the air in.

anyone with a 130 pd lump wana take some pictures of the vac lines/solenoids etc.?

im guessing theyve mixed up the vacuum pipes.

worrying? no not really. if its not leaving drips on your drive its of no concern. next time its serviced ask them to check the diff oil level and top up as required. the drive flange seals are relativly easy to change tho (the drive shaft needs removing) bob the drive flange off and there it...

do you have a picture to refresh my memory? i think it goes around the outside of each pulley apart from the tensioner which goes on the flat side of the belt inbetween the crank pulley and the alternator. aircon is on a separate belt.

belt diagram?

pull the abs fuse. or if you still want the abs to work find one of the accelaration sensors and unplug it. i dont know where they are as they dont go wrong so ive never changed one. is there a separate fuse for the steering angle sensor? this would also render the esp inactive leaving the abs...

ah, take the pump off the back of the n/s head. i bet whoevers changed the cambelt has lost or broken the drive bit. as you need to remove it to fit the cam alignment tool when doing the belt! or as adam said theyve snapped the plastic hose. take it back to the garage and kick off as theyve...

if both cars are b6's then they should be a straight swap.