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Correct

If the vacuum actuator is leaking all the engine vacuum (non-referring to a manifold air leak), then you will remove the vacuum leak from the system. therefore the turbo can then use the vacuum to activate. With a vacuum leak the turbo cannot move = zero boost (Providing it is the actuator on...

you can remove the vacuum hose going to the intake manifold actuator and shove a screw into it to disable it.

You sit there at 70mph on the dot with no aggressive driving? or a third lane Michael Schumacher driver trying to get to the front of the non existent never ending queue to your destination?

You can simply use a 10a fuse. im sure you’ll only it for charging a phone or similar. That draws only a couple of amps at 12V if using PD 20W chargers

ATO piggy back fuse holders X2 needed (standard size) just need x2 of these and join the wire together

They are the adapters, which I had to repin (hence started the post)

Sorry my memory is 5 seconds not 5 years. Just a side note I’ve not had an water ingress issues or anything with my kufatec connectors in the last 5 years.

You’re welcome!

Unlucky is an understatement

Nice job, what’s your power output like now rubbing these injectors?

Headlight mounting tabs are what I want to fix and also a small split in the lower portion of a bumper. I’ve been trawling google too and not much info there (doesn’t have to be A3 specific)

Thanks for that, saw it has good reviews although a bit expensive for me since I mainly work on my own or family cars :/

Looking for advise for tried and tested tab repair for ABS: -JB Plasticweld remains flexible -Araldite epoxy chips off easily want something that stays solid and actually adheres to the ABS, 4 tabs abs various ABS bits to fix Thanks

Just a permanent repair to a headlight section (non removable) it is from the bulkhead area to the headlight (chop and replacing the 1m length of harness since it is burnt due to a small fire). Don’t want to use any solder in the engine bay, the harness has about 30 wires (15 headlight/ abs...

Thanks Garret, I’ve seen those around at work they’re awesome for instrumentation. I am just replacing a section of burnt headlight harness so not trying to make it bulky/obvious trying to make it safe and secure and not use solder know of any other options? Trying to avoid doing some rubbish...

What’s a good crimp to use in order to join 30+ harness wires for an engine bay? Not using spade connectors nor the barrel version of the spade connectors. -need to get a ratchet crimp too -will use glue lined heatshrink on top but not solderibgvte wires. please advise, maybe eBay links too...

2 drop link changes takes 20-30 min total if rusted, non oem parts costs £20 for both from GSF. 2 springs about £50 each gsf non oem and 30 mins work to complete both sides, just removing one bolt for suspension... No alignment needed. DO IT YOURSELF, you need one hydraulic jack and axle...

You do understand a 12.6V is a 100% charged lead acid battery!?

No, classic case of throwing money at a car