2 or 4 wheel alignment after lowering?

BasDust

Registered User
Joined
Aug 15, 2021
Messages
44
Reaction score
9
Points
8
Location
SN25 2sp
Hi all, just had my eibach sportlines fitted on my s line, should I get 2 or 4 wheel alignment ideally?
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0417_copy_2400x1350.jpg
    DSC_0417_copy_2400x1350.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 109
I had camber on rears annoying me for years and it is common on German motors.
I would do all 4 wheels as you're there already. Rears can eat up your tyres too

Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
 
4 wheel alignment, make sure you go for a drive first to make sure they have settled properly. Most places should let you come back after a few days too and make sure they are still in spec too.
 
That is great, I have driven around 50 miles so far on various types of roads, including some very bumpy back roads. Going to go for hunter alignment this weekend coming as a couple of garages have the equipment and lots of good reviews on it.
 
You'll need to find a good place to do the front alignment. It requires more adjustment than the bolts will give, it involves back off the subframe bolts as well - many places like National Tyres refuse to do it properly.
 
You'll need to find a good place to do the front alignment. It requires more adjustment than the bolts will give, it involves back off the subframe bolts as well - many places like National Tyres refuse to do it properly.
Anyone know of anywhere in the Swindon area that will be able to complete this?
 
Just find a decent indi, I had mine adjusted after fitting sportlines at an indi, just standard 4 wheel alignment, (no special adjustments) I did about 40K miles on them with perfectly even wear onto my 2nd sets of P zero's
 
Just find a decent indi, I had mine adjusted after fitting sportlines at an indi, just standard 4 wheel alignment, (no special adjustments) I did about 40K miles on them with perfectly even wear onto my 2nd sets of P zero's

I knew you'd be along to disagree...please pop your alignment chart up to compare. I'll dig mine out.
Anyone know of anywhere in the Swindon area that will be able to complete this?

Just phone around a few, they may have experience with the 8V.

What I have found is, my car was on 19's at the time, that the standard bolts will get it on the cusp of the 'tolerance' range, but for me, I wanted it perfect and not on the edge. Most people will be happy with it being just within tolerance as the lights go green on the machine, but there can be almost half a degree of adjustment in there still, and thats a fair bit when relating it to handling. National Tyres refunded me, and I went to a local independent, who has been around forever, and they did it properly by dropping some of the subframe bolts.

He commented its fairly typical on the 8V to have to do it this way to get it bang on. He showed me how the adjustment just basically 'runs out' on lowered 8v's using the standard adjustment.

This is with Eibach Pro's, which are 10mm lowering over standard S-Line. I didn't think that level of lowering would have needed this level of work tbh.

I may have thought it was just National not doing it correctly if the Indie hadn't showed me the issue.

You might get lucky and it all goes in spot on first time without further more involved adjustment, so don't worry about it until it happens.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TonkS3

Attachments

  • DSC_0417_copy_2400x1350.jpg
    DSC_0417_copy_2400x1350.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 62
  • DSC_0416_copy_2205x1240.jpg
    DSC_0416_copy_2205x1240.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 62
  • DSC_0415_copy_2423x1363.jpg
    DSC_0415_copy_2423x1363.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 59
  • DSC_0412_copy_2279x1282.jpg
    DSC_0412_copy_2279x1282.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 79
  • DSC_0408_copy_2277x1281.jpg
    DSC_0408_copy_2277x1281.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 85
  • DSC_0409_copy_2149x1208.jpg
    DSC_0409_copy_2149x1208.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 78
Hunter 4 wheel done, before and after.
The drop is great, car looks much more level as the rear looked higher than the front, ride is not much different on smooth roads, bit harsher on rough surfaces, avoid pot holes at all costs, much more crashy than standard, and a small amount of bounce over sharp drops like speed humps etc. using standard shocks. But I drive fairly sedately mostly so am not bothered. Not sure about getting 19s now though, think the two together will be too much without changing the shocks as well.
Got enough left in my pot for either a private plate (too much of a ponce?) or get the wheels powder coated black / painted black leaving the machined faces. Don't know which to pick yet..
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0420_copy_1392x2476.jpg
    DSC_0420_copy_1392x2476.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 73
  • DSC_0421_copy_1360x2418.jpg
    DSC_0421_copy_1360x2418.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 66
  • Like
Reactions: Dubjam
Hunter 4 wheel done, before and after.
The drop is great, car looks much more level as the rear looked higher than the front, ride is not much different on smooth roads, bit harsher on rough surfaces, avoid pot holes at all costs, much more crashy than standard, and a small amount of bounce over sharp drops like speed humps etc. using standard shocks. But I drive fairly sedately mostly so am not bothered. Not sure about getting 19s now though, think the two together will be too much without changing the shocks as well.
Got enough left in my pot for either a private plate (too much of a ponce?) or get the wheels powder coated black / painted black leaving the machined faces. Don't know which to pick yet..
If you change the struts to Koni Special Actives, the crashiness goes and the handling is transformed to plush when pottering around to nice and planted when cornering.


That would be more important to me than a private plate , but horses for courses :)