Is it possible to delete the swirl flaps from the ecu? I'm getting error messages from both banks and rather than repair i would just sooner get them deleted. Has anyone done this and how did it work out? Also is it possible to leave the swirl flaps in-situ in the manifold even when they have been deleted, i understand their default position is open so presume it would be ok just to leave them.
3.0 tdi v6 swirl flap delete
- Thread starter ferritt
- Start date
The flaps run inside plastic guides and they normally wear through. So i would recommend removing the flaps and then kill the flaps in the ecu.
Jlm96
Registered User
How do you "kill the flaps in the ecu?"
When you remove them it'll throw a error up but will that put the car in limo mode or is it just a light in the dash?
When you remove them it'll throw a error up but will that put the car in limo mode or is it just a light in the dash?
Most of the time replacement of the actuator rods is all that is required to resolve this issue. That's what I did on my car and haven't seen any more issues. They don't present any issues unlike swirl flaps on some cars such as the BMW's where they can be ingested into the engine.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-A...nifold-swirl-flap-link-arm-x-2-/252672826243?
To remove them completely requires a remap on the ECU
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-A...nifold-swirl-flap-link-arm-x-2-/252672826243?
To remove them completely requires a remap on the ECU
Karl the reason why the arms come off is normally due to the added load being put on them from worn out bushes in which the swirl flap rod rotates within.
The last two deletes I've done the bushes have worn straight through
The last two deletes I've done the bushes have worn straight through
Cliffy
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Sorry to revive this thread but seems he most relevant
my swirl flaps are giving me issues, bank 1 the rod has detached and is super worn so will fall off again, and on bank 2 I’m getting the engine light on, so instead of repairing I’m thinking of physically removing them from the manifold but my question is can I take the swirl flaps out and leave the actuators plugged in so the car still thinks it has flaps and still moves the motor it just won’t be connected to anything?
my swirl flaps are giving me issues, bank 1 the rod has detached and is super worn so will fall off again, and on bank 2 I’m getting the engine light on, so instead of repairing I’m thinking of physically removing them from the manifold but my question is can I take the swirl flaps out and leave the actuators plugged in so the car still thinks it has flaps and still moves the motor it just won’t be connected to anything?
i have in my shed a single set ( for 1 bank) from my q7 casa , engine flaps / rod / bushes/ ball joint , if anyone wants the set for free plus postage (£2) to get their problem sorted.
i bought 2 sets and only needed 1 in my 2 year ownership of the q7 ( wish i still had that motor) anyway my a7 cduc is a totally different style and dont need the older type anymore
i bought 2 sets and only needed 1 in my 2 year ownership of the q7 ( wish i still had that motor) anyway my a7 cduc is a totally different style and dont need the older type anymore
no the motor rest position will be different hence why the worn parts are making it throw the code in the first place.
its like returning to a negative rest position
There is a kit on ebay that supplies a stainless bracket to limit the motor travel thus stopping it throwing an error.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/P2015-B...173470662471?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/P2015-B...173470662471?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
@bobby singh whats the issue of them wearing through? Looking to get a swirl flap delete without removing the flaps and wondered what the possible long term damage could be to the engine if any
I see cars like this all the time whereby so called tuners just turn off the flaps but do not remove them. I had a case recently whereby a CAPA had no error code but the customer was complaining of low power. Well turns out the flaps for the RHS bank were stuck at 80% closed but off course no error codes so his local garage had no idea why the car was down on power.
Do the job correctly and you won't have these issues.
SO can I remove the flaps and linkages physically from the inlets while i'm having a decoke and clean , fit the limiting stainless brackets, then leave the flap motors plugged in and then drive the car error free? what's the downside to this?
