A couple of things about 1.8t engine building

desertstorm

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You don't need really anything bigger than 63mm for the piping. I did some testing on pressure loss at 500bhp on my car and the loss in the pipes is pretty negligeable compared to the loss in the intercooler. The 1035 I used has 75mm connections so I just used 63-75mm bends to connect to the intercooler. The VLOG I linked to earlier did several tests on the TR8L and TR8C and the TR8L didn't come out that well in terms of cooling and pressure drop .
https://mygolfmk7.com/2021/03/treadstone-tr8l-street-data/ .
You need both low pressure drop and good cooling especially when running higher boost settings as this is when the highest heating of the intake air occurs.
I would be looking at the TR8C if you can fit the 75mm connections and are OK with centre feeds.
 
You don't need really anything bigger than 63mm for the piping. I did some testing on pressure loss at 500bhp on my car and the loss in the pipes is pretty negligeable compared to the loss in the intercooler. The 1035 I used has 75mm connections so I just used 63-75mm bends to connect to the intercooler. The VLOG I linked to earlier did several tests on the TR8L and TR8C and the TR8L didn't come out that well in terms of cooling and pressure drop .
https://mygolfmk7.com/2021/03/treadstone-tr8l-street-data/ .
You need both low pressure drop and good cooling especially when running higher boost settings as this is when the highest heating of the intake air occurs.
I would be looking at the TR8C if you can fit the 75mm connections and are OK with centre feeds.
I think I'll go with TR8C definitely. Just send an email to Jeff(mygolfmk7.com) to ask about some details and wrote to treadstone as well just to hear their opinion.
I also look at Mishimoto one....https://www.mishimoto.eu/mishimoto-universal-intercooler-j-line.html Don't know too much about this one. But they refer to 500HP Hyundai Genesis Coupe that is tested.Not really sure :) let's say a bit confused.But I hope tr8c will be a sweet spot!Really hope
 
@desertstorm looks like factory proof that tr8c can hold more than is rated for.I guess 500HP is safe rated number
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Little update :) I received a couple more interesting parts. Slowly getting there.
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The gearbox will be 02m 6speed instead of the 5speed...That I have at the moment. Obviously new LSD differential and full set dog engagement 1-6.Complete rebuild of the gearbox.IE intake it's on the way and also Pro-Race Engineering 06A 1.8t Baffled and Reinforced Sump Pan coming as well.
 
Hey everyone,
I hope you all doing great. From day to day my list becomes shorter and shorter and the day of the build is closer. To choose the right parts I wanted to check a couple more things with you and hear your opinion...
1. Do I need an aluminum version of coolant flanges or plastic(OE) once is totally fine?
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2. I'm planning to save some space because I'm not planning to move my battery in the trunk. Do you think is a good choice to go with Odyssey batteries? Especially this one? https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/odyssey-extreme-racing-25-battery-pc680-pc680
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3. I'll run Setrab ProLine STD 910 Series 9 (50-910-7612) oil cooler that should be 405mm x 76mm 10 Row which should be 22 mm x 1.50 Female Inlet. Do you think AN10 is enough or do I need to go a bit higher? AN12 maybe?

4. Just received ARP bolts and I found some interesting information about 201-5001 bolts I'm wondering is it possible that BMW and VAG are sharing the same bolts?
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Thank you everyone,
Djordje
 
The aluminium coolant flanges are a good upgrade to do. I also noticed that with the arp bolts when I was sourcing my parts and everything was fine with them.
 
Same as Mark mentioned, the ally flanges are what everyone typically upgrades to, the plastic one do go brittle over time.

I used to run that battery, pretty good bit of kit, everything ran fine with it on, however if you leave the car not used for over 2 weeks then it’ll deplete. You don’t want to make a habit of this as these batteries are prone to swell once depleted and are no longer effective. Make sure you order the terminal heads as well if you do decide to go for it. Putting the battery in the boot isn’t a big job to do really, I’d recommend putting it in the boot if you can.


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Thank you @hydro s3 , @S3AMJ
I didn't think about terminal heads, good point, I'll definitely order them as well. Can you guys help also with fittings for the oil cooler is it AN10 enough or do I need to go with a bigger one?AN12 maybe?

I forgot to ask about delete stuff...sai combi pcv n249 evap do you have any recommendation for delete kit, resistors. What do you suggest? What is the best and cleanest way to go?

Thank you a lot,
Djordje
 
Yeah I’d go with AN12 for the oil cooler pipework.

As your running a standalone ECU you can delete most of the stuff you’ve mentioned. You’ll still need to run some sort of PCV system though, be that venting to atmosphere or recirculating it back into the TIP.


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Yeah I’d go with AN12 for the oil cooler pipework.

As your running a standalone ECU you can delete most of the stuff you’ve mentioned. You’ll still need to run some sort of PCV system though, be that venting to atmosphere or recirculating it back into the TIP.


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Thank you @S3AMJ honestly I thought about AN10, but wanted to check.Asking because here is AN8 I wll have to do some conversion from AN8 to AN 12
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Oh yes!I already ordered 1xAN20 and 2xAN10 2x 25mm breather filter simillar as you have on your car,but just on a bit different place beause of cold intake I'm planing to make...Also I'll make one little oil drain on the catchcan oil.You rember that I boughted new/old :D rockr cover.
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Need to weld fitting and prepair for the paint after I finish the space.Still need to finsh this.I started with wide body parts and that takes some time,becuse I designed and now creating the models that's need to be molded.It's actually holce kit for the beetle :D custom one,handmade :)
 
Hey guys,
I can see that some people install this swirl pot for coolant.

May I ask what is the main advantage and is this something you recommend as well.I'm not really sure,but want to check what do you think?
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Scene points for shaved/clean engine bays typically as it facilitates the removal of the expansion bottle

<tuffty/>
Thank you for the quick reply :) That's means I don't need it :D

Please let me know what I can do with driveshafts? You know that beetle is fwd...There will be more than 3 times more power than factory power.Do you have any advice I can do? Or I can go with OE?
 

<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
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OE driveshafts are generally fine... I suspect you will blow the box before the shafts on a FWD car... sticky tyres and plate LSD's can increase stresses though... this tends to manifest as broken CV joints though...

Just be aware if you plan to do any track or other high speed stuff then new CV's will need a bedding in period... most people I know who race cars tend to fit used CV's as they are worn in... this generates less heat and less chance that the CV will lock up from expansion

FWD will generally spin away high torque in the lower gears and hook up from third and on by which time the loading will be less... what gearbox are you fitting? 02M or 02J?

<tuffty/>
 
OE driveshafts are generally fine... I suspect you will blow the box before the shafts on a FWD car... sticky tyres and plate LSD's can increase stresses though... this tends to manifest as broken CV joints though...

Just be aware if you plan to do any track or other high speed stuff then new CV's will need a bedding in period... most people I know who race cars tend to fit used CV's as they are worn in... this generates less heat and less chance that the CV will lock up from expansion

FWD will generally spin away high torque in the lower gears and hook up from third and on by which time the loading will be less... what gearbox are you fitting? 02M or 02J?

<tuffty/>
Thank you @<tuffty/>
I'm planning to run 02m with wavetrac lsd and full dogbox set 1-6 from monster performance Set is included 1,2,3,4,5,6 turn gears , single 5th gear , reverse , input main shaft , 1-2 , 3-4 , 5-6 sleeves and 3/4 billet shift fork...

Do you suggest then to try to find some racing cvjoints? Yes I'll do track from time to time, not every weekend...
 

<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
Given Prawn races on std CV's I can't imagine you will need them... even if you could find them... what might be useful though is to use the red CV grease (CV-2 I think its called) as this is supposed to be better at the higher loads/temps CV's will see while pushed

<tuffty/>
 
Given Prawn races on std CV's I can't imagine you will need them... even if you could find them... what might be useful though is to use the red CV grease (CV-2 I think its called) as this is supposed to be better at the higher loads/temps CV's will see while pushed

<tuffty/>
@<tuffty/> YOu are right. I totally forgot. I PM Nick to check which one he has in their setup. Btw couple more people also suggest using OE or SKF or GKN to rebuild with cv2 redline. I'll follow what you suggest.
People also suggest lowering cars and achieving more straight driveshafts.

btw where I can find oil and water lines, oil drain all the fitments? for G25550
Do you also suggest water cooling for WG?
Thank you,
Djordje
 
Hellow boyz :D I hope you're doing well.

I need your opinion related to the oil feed line and oil pressure for g25550. I thinking to go with turbo smart opr T40 to avoid any problems and keep -4 AN Ports. Do you have any experience with this product and what do you think in general? Looks like a good product.

@Stuart B my car is fwd I don't have a transfer box if I'm right just a shorter flange on the 02m
 
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G25-550 has a restrictor built in IIRC so you just need a normal oil feed line....

<tuffty/>
Oh, I can see. I read the description of g25-550 and your right.
Let me understand...Whatever pressure is sent resistor will decrease the amount of oil pressure to 40psi

btw, What do you prefer for the oil and water line for turbo and for the drain? AN fitting hoses or hard lines?
Thank you a lot :)
 

<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
G25 is a ball bearing turbo... it is not designed to use the oil pressure to float the shaft like a journal bearing... the restrictor will reduce the pressure substantially as a ball bearing turbo only needs oil fed to it not forced to it...

All you need to do is use an oil line from the OE feed in the filter housing to the top of the turbo.... no requirement for anything else

Oil and water lines need to be 100% heat resistant so I have always built mine as hard lines until its as far away from radiant heat as possible... I have examples of this for both my 20v stroker build and VR6t build in my thread...

Bill now uses a combination of stainless tube and a special flexi hose (I use these for one of my coolant lines and for the oil drain on the VRt).... key thing is heat... AN lines will still melt if in proximity to the heat from the turbo and exhaust parts.... rubber hoses will dry and fatigue even if braided...

<tuffty/>
 
G25 is a ball bearing turbo... it is not designed to use the oil pressure to float the shaft like a journal bearing... the restrictor will reduce the pressure substantially as a ball bearing turbo only needs oil fed to it not forced to it...

All you need to do is use an oil line from the OE feed in the filter housing to the top of the turbo.... no requirement for anything else

Oil and water lines need to be 100% heat resistant so I have always built mine as hard lines until its as far away from radiant heat as possible... I have examples of this for both my 20v stroker build and VR6t build in my thread...

Bill now uses a combination of stainless tube and a special flexi hose (I use these for one of my coolant lines and for the oil drain on the VRt).... key thing is heat... AN lines will still melt if in proximity to the heat from the turbo and exhaust parts.... rubber hoses will dry and fatigue even if braided...

<tuffty/>
Thank you @<tuffty/> for this nice explanation. I'm really glad you find time every time I need help. I really appreciate that.
I'll check once again how you did this for your project,but there is a lot of important information for me...
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I can see you weld oild drain,but I'm wondering did you order somewhere flexi part or ?
What is mean special flexi hose?Is it a secret?I'll definitly use some of thise insulations for the lines,but just want to makse sure doing right thing...

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Do you also use some fittings for hardline?
I will avoid lines, and will focus as you did...Just need to buy some 16mm stainless steel pipes

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<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
The flexi hoses I got from Bill (Badger 5)... no idea where he gets his from tbh... same with all the other hardware... its the sort of stuff Bill has on the shelf as obviously does a lot of big builds so these are the parts he likes to use... this includes the tube, bends and flanges needed to fabricate the lines... Bill also keeps the oil feed lines too..

The banjo's for the turbo coolant lines you can get from ebay... (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313947615009) these are just welded onto 10mm od stainless tube for the initial part of the line... you will need to weld a barb or beads to the end of the tube if connecting a silicon or rubber hose to it though else it will pop off.

I don't recall the OD for the oil drain bends off hand as again Bill just has these specifically for making drains up so used what was there..

You only really need to insulate rubber/silicon hoses that are in proximity to radiant heat from the turbo and ancillaries... areas where heat gets trapped is also a cause for concern...

For example I insulated the vac lines to the wastegate here...
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...as I knew there would be a lot of heat in that area... it will be a bit worse for the 20v as the wastegate position is normally lower in the car

<tuffty/>
 
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