So how were is beat to mount the double usb socket?
It all looks good. Is there any preferred places to put this out of the way?
It all looks good. Is there any preferred places to put this out of the way?
A4 B7 List of Affordable Modifications/Upgrades/Retrofits
- Thread starter SDHA4SLine
- Start date
So does the USB port replace the old cigarette lighter or do you just take the old lighter out and find somewhere to put the USB plug?
Even a wee picture might help me.figure.this out
Even a wee picture might help me.figure.this out
To those who think the pod gauges where a bad idea
1) you start your engine my is the 3.0 litre ASN for the oil pump to reach normal running 1.0 bar to 1.5 bar it takes about 6 and half minutes for the oil to get around the engine fully they say most engine damage and wear is done when you first start up, my car is ten years old and has around 56,000 miles on the clock and I let my engine sit for a couple of minutes running at idle before moving and has recently had a full re spray at a cost of £3,200
2) you have an oil pressure warning light on your dashboard but did you know even if you turn off the engine when the light comes on there is already engine damage I can at anytime monitor both pressure and temperature and bear in mind that the VW/Audi oil water cooler's are prone to failure you look at the horror stories and the cost's of doing a head gasket on your car I have 2 heads both my heads would have to skimmed even if only one gasket failed or the oil water cooler gave up the ghost
3) there where other pods available to me at the time when I did this, but these were custom made for me, this was my choice and yes the pods were £50 each plus VDO gauges where around £45 each and a full through oil sandwich plate around £50 but the biggest shock where the cost of the sender's that had to be ordered from VDO in Germany I put in the wiring myself so the £750 is the full cost with an estimate of labour added
4) my car is my pride and joy lol, if I can have more information to help me avert serious engine repair my engine brand new is around £4500 is that not money well spent and an IOBD tool will not give oil pressure or temperature the x-tool I have does not provide that information
Your thought's on my comments would be appreciated
1) you start your engine my is the 3.0 litre ASN for the oil pump to reach normal running 1.0 bar to 1.5 bar it takes about 6 and half minutes for the oil to get around the engine fully they say most engine damage and wear is done when you first start up, my car is ten years old and has around 56,000 miles on the clock and I let my engine sit for a couple of minutes running at idle before moving and has recently had a full re spray at a cost of £3,200
2) you have an oil pressure warning light on your dashboard but did you know even if you turn off the engine when the light comes on there is already engine damage I can at anytime monitor both pressure and temperature and bear in mind that the VW/Audi oil water cooler's are prone to failure you look at the horror stories and the cost's of doing a head gasket on your car I have 2 heads both my heads would have to skimmed even if only one gasket failed or the oil water cooler gave up the ghost
3) there where other pods available to me at the time when I did this, but these were custom made for me, this was my choice and yes the pods were £50 each plus VDO gauges where around £45 each and a full through oil sandwich plate around £50 but the biggest shock where the cost of the sender's that had to be ordered from VDO in Germany I put in the wiring myself so the £750 is the full cost with an estimate of labour added
4) my car is my pride and joy lol, if I can have more information to help me avert serious engine repair my engine brand new is around £4500 is that not money well spent and an IOBD tool will not give oil pressure or temperature the x-tool I have does not provide that information
Your thought's on my comments would be appreciated
Ianski68
Registered User
Agree with Ianski, don't think anyone would say the idea was bad.
If it was oil pressure that you were worried about then http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/644554-DIY-Oil-pressure-Read-Out]this link [/url] seems like a decent effort and a bit more discreet.
If it was oil pressure that you were worried about then http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/644554-DIY-Oil-pressure-Read-Out]this link [/url] seems like a decent effort and a bit more discreet.
Hi didnt think was bad idea just doesn't look the best and then the price thats the same as a milltek exhaust and not sure what bit is custom made
as i did some myself in one of my old car into the vents
before https://www.dropbox.com/sc/tlx3cokqgypjqoy/AAAV76QP50dPLQUFsrDEJzI-a
after https://www.dropbox.com/sc/bcrjvwmu4qvdt32/AAAKju19p0jpOao6xVBkyaVwa
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/vpsbdkhep8b32cw/AADeMd_bwxOuZQwdtGOP1cNUa
i did these and had some plasti bit custom made for the pod to sit in both gauges all in cost about £120
Ianski68
Registered User
I have seen it where the actual vents have been removed and 3 gauges fitted flush into the openings. To look as you would just think it's a factory fitting. Unless you have an Audi
no its just tapped off the ciggie light wiring (if its switched ign). and tucked in behind. keeps it all invisible.
my only point is unless you sit watching them every few seconds there is little point. Ive had those gauges on track cars where you would push the car to the limits and its certainly good to watch. On a road car though oil temp is rarely a problem. oil pressure fluctuates depending on revs load temp etc so its not like the coolant gauge where it should be bang on centre all the time, makes it open to interpretation. volts aren't really useful as the battery light will tell you if the alternator stops working.
not bashing you mate, its your car and you're free to do what you want to with but £750 is crazy money for 3 gauges. Cant understand why the sensors were so expensive either any Ive ever had were like 50-70 quid each for the gauge AND sender (stack etc).
but like I say, your car, your money so best of luck to you.
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
You should change your user name from easy going Si to ****** off Si
Seriously though dont take offence from any comments on forums, it'll eat you up biting every time someone disagrees with your choices.to the comments above Lads you think that cost me a lot lol
the stereo in mine cost not much sort of £5,000 and I did most of the labour myself
power flow 3 box exhaust £800 with two RS5 look tail pipes
and Riger RS4 look wrap around front grill around £450
Pablo when you buy gauges you normally get 1/8 NTPF threaded sender's like the ones supplied with the gauges but then you use PTFE thread sealing tape to stop any oil leaks you actually stop the negative side of the sender making the resistance voltage so there is no information going to the gauge, the senders I fitted were 1/4 NTPF threaded with the negative return on the sender itself so yes they are more expensive but also made wiring the senders in so easy, but allows you to use PTFE tape to seal the threads and yes I had to go to VDO direct and order from them, I worked on quite a few old Audi coupe's and Audi 90's that were fitted with the gauges and the biggest problems were slight oil leaks from the sender threads as the car got older
Dr Evil could you check that thread I couldn't view the web page ( address not found )
SHDA4Sline ****** of never part of this forum job is not only to help people but also exchange idea's and people learn from both the experience and mistake's of others, but what really makes me laugh is when people jump up and down saying they have a fantastic Bose car audio system in the Audi I can assure everyone on this site that there fantastic Bose and Bang and Olufson Hifi are cheap Chinese rubbish I have worked on a couple of really high end Audi car hifi set up's £5000 plus leauge my speakers and cost around £1000 for Hertz 2 tweeter's and 4 full range and a JL audio sub
And 90% of the people here wouldn't know a good car stereo if it came up and slapped them on the face the only part of the stereo that are from the fantastic Audio brands is the Label that Audi put on the stereo don't people on her realise all do Audi do is pay to use the name
Best regards Simon happily retired
the stereo in mine cost not much sort of £5,000 and I did most of the labour myself
power flow 3 box exhaust £800 with two RS5 look tail pipes
and Riger RS4 look wrap around front grill around £450
Pablo when you buy gauges you normally get 1/8 NTPF threaded sender's like the ones supplied with the gauges but then you use PTFE thread sealing tape to stop any oil leaks you actually stop the negative side of the sender making the resistance voltage so there is no information going to the gauge, the senders I fitted were 1/4 NTPF threaded with the negative return on the sender itself so yes they are more expensive but also made wiring the senders in so easy, but allows you to use PTFE tape to seal the threads and yes I had to go to VDO direct and order from them, I worked on quite a few old Audi coupe's and Audi 90's that were fitted with the gauges and the biggest problems were slight oil leaks from the sender threads as the car got older
Dr Evil could you check that thread I couldn't view the web page ( address not found )
SHDA4Sline ****** of never part of this forum job is not only to help people but also exchange idea's and people learn from both the experience and mistake's of others, but what really makes me laugh is when people jump up and down saying they have a fantastic Bose car audio system in the Audi I can assure everyone on this site that there fantastic Bose and Bang and Olufson Hifi are cheap Chinese rubbish I have worked on a couple of really high end Audi car hifi set up's £5000 plus leauge my speakers and cost around £1000 for Hertz 2 tweeter's and 4 full range and a JL audio sub
And 90% of the people here wouldn't know a good car stereo if it came up and slapped them on the face the only part of the stereo that are from the fantastic Audio brands is the Label that Audi put on the stereo don't people on her realise all do Audi do is pay to use the name
Best regards Simon happily retired
Simon I think you've kind of lost the plot of this topic. This is for "affordable" mods up to about £100. If you want to talk £750 gauges and £5000 stereo then why not start a build thread? Just a friendly idea
tony mc
Registered User
si mate just out of interest, how much money have you pumped in to you car,
it sounds like you could of bought an rs4 or something newer/better ???
it sounds like you could of bought an rs4 or something newer/better ???
I don't quite get your point?
All I'm trying to say is this thread was a really good source of information and now it's just gone off on a wild tangent. As I said the info he was giving would of been better utilised in his own build thread
Ianski68
Registered User
Not sure if this qualifies as a 'modification' but one thing that has been an absolute God send for me is this cover for my car.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal...617169?hash=item2a5f8bb291:g:S0oAAOSwHaBWl9Zn
Originally I bought a different one from a different company. It was ok but the material was so thin so it ripped within a couple of weeks.
Got this new one above and its been fantastic so far. The ice has been a ******* to clear in the morning but not with this. Its still quite thin in terms of material but is excellent nonetheless in my opinion and for just over £10..you're laughing.
The XL covers our cars top to bottom and side to side fully. It even has wing mirror pockets.
So..protect your car guys. Dont be a 'Ding Bat' haha
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal...617169?hash=item2a5f8bb291:g:S0oAAOSwHaBWl9Zn
Originally I bought a different one from a different company. It was ok but the material was so thin so it ripped within a couple of weeks.
Got this new one above and its been fantastic so far. The ice has been a ******* to clear in the morning but not with this. Its still quite thin in terms of material but is excellent nonetheless in my opinion and for just over £10..you're laughing.
The XL covers our cars top to bottom and side to side fully. It even has wing mirror pockets.
So..protect your car guys. Dont be a 'Ding Bat' haha
I'd be careful about this if I were you, I had one on a different vehicle and they do tend to whip about on the bodywork in blustery conditions and if you put on top of vehicle with "bits" on it can mash the paintwork right up. That was my experience anyhow...
Yes Moorzy.. funny story..
A couple of nights I had my old cover fly off my car like a cheeky ghost. Wake up the next morning to find its half way down the road!
This DOES NOT happen with my new one as Its a bit more dense in material, has wing mirror pockets (which makes it more difficult to fly away) AND...i put a traffic cone behind my car which I found.
No one in there right mind should put any weighted object on top.
A couple of nights I had my old cover fly off my car like a cheeky ghost. Wake up the next morning to find its half way down the road!
This DOES NOT happen with my new one as Its a bit more dense in material, has wing mirror pockets (which makes it more difficult to fly away) AND...i put a traffic cone behind my car which I found.
No one in there right mind should put any weighted object on top.
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Thread resurrection - this is a great thread so though I would add my 'cheap' additions so fa.
Sline grill colour - match lower grills and rear diffuser £20 for paint, primer, sand paper. Add another £10 for a clear coat
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Sline grill colour - match lower grills and rear diffuser £20 for paint, primer, sand paper. Add another £10 for a clear coat
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Subtle but very nice chief. Well played.Thread resurrection - this is a great thread so though I would add my 'cheap' additions so fa.
Sline grill colour - match lower grills and rear diffuser £20 for paint, primer, sand paper. Add another £10 for a clear coat
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Cheers Moorzy, I prefer the subtle bits and pieces. Also with a heat gun they were sorted much quicker and came out nice and smooth.
I like those. I had toyed with doing my grill inserts in the age-old gloss black, but was put off by it being gloss. Those look satin, is that right? I'd rather have them painted so I don't need to worry about dressing them often.
Nice job.
Nice job.
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After buying this is time for welding job
This is before
And after
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I got Anthracite bumper spray from Halfrauds, didn't laquer to keep them Matt looking
missgixxer
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hi, does anyone have any info on a watertight cover for over the ecu box? my factory cover is in perfect condition but box is filling up with water and destroying my relays and ecu cables are getting drowned!! replaced fuel pump relay a month ago and had to replace same (and glow plug relay) this week! also i live in ireland where it rains 80% of the time! any info greatly appreciated
Hi bud, that's kind of the problem right there. It will take a long time to get up to pressure / temp if you're sitting at idle. This is actually a bad thing and increases the time when most damage is done. Driving the car gently (but driving the car!) is the best option, or very gently putting some revs through it with no load (free revving), like a race car warm up sequence. Although this will just annoy your neighbours and make you look mental (I know from previous experience with the rotary lol).
Just a friendly tip, as you obviously care a lot about the car and it's worth saying that idle warm up cycles are bad (as you've noticed on the gauge).
Back on topic
So far as cheap affordable upgrades go the best upgrade so far for the wife's Misano Red cab was a DA polisher, some hex logic pads, Megs 105, 205, #7 glaze and some collinite. Just over £120 as I got the polisher on amazon with a discount code.
I just go with the flexipads hex logic, they're cheap and I pass thepolishingbooth on the way home from work (so often nip in on an early finish-). I recently bought a flexipads ultra soft backing plate too which I quite like.
Sorry mate I meant to say which pads from their range, like which one for the 105 and same for the 205.
I'm using menzerna at the minute and looking for a change and I hear good stuff about the megs and hex stuff.
I'm using menzerna at the minute and looking for a change and I hear good stuff about the megs and hex stuff.
I tried menzerna (400 I think) but didn't get on with it, maybe it's better on a rotary... For ease of use and speed of results on a DA though (in my opinion) the 105 in unbeatable. I used that with the yellow heavy cut pad, 205 with the orange medium heavy, then the slight cut blue, #7 fast glaze (which I like on red) with a white finishing pad I think... I did two very light coats of Collinite by hand with a nice fine sponge applicator. The finer the sponge the easier I find it to lightly spread which means you don't waste any and it's much easier to remove
Does anyone know where to pick up the centre arm rest clip/handle that is known for snapping? There was a conversation in here somewhere a while ago, but the part linked on eBay doesnt deliver to the UK and can'tseem to find the same part anywhere. Rather not have to buy the full leather arm rest top.
Does anyone know where to pick up the centre arm rest clip/handle that is known for snapping? There was a conversation in here somewhere a while ago, but the part linked on eBay doesnt deliver to the UK and can'tseem to find the same part anywhere. Rather not have to buy the full leather arm rest top.
Try HERE.....as long as it's for a B6/B7 you'll be fine.
