A4 B8 front brake sticking

thomas bloxham

Registered User
Joined
Jan 20, 2017
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
hello can anyboby help me
i have a 2008 a4 s line 2.0tdi
the other day i was driving and the brakes started binding pulled over and both front wheels were red hot
so i thought perhaps servo or master cylinder as both brakes were sticking at the same time
next day went out in it and now just the one side gets hot (drivers)
was interested to know if anyone else has come across this it not binding much but enough to make the wheel hot and also gets worse the hoter it gets
if it had always been the one side i would though caliper but just a bit strange how the first time it happened it was both sides
 
hello can anyboby help me
i have a 2008 a4 s line 2.0tdi
the other day i was driving and the brakes started binding pulled over and both front wheels were red hot
so i thought perhaps servo or master cylinder as both brakes were sticking at the same time
next day went out in it and now just the one side gets hot (drivers)
was interested to know if anyone else has come across this it not binding much but enough to make the wheel hot and also gets worse the hoter it gets
if it had always been the one side i would though caliper but just a bit strange how the first time it happened it was both sides
Hi Pal. Had exactly the same issue on my 08 A4 6 months ago. Brakes where red hot. Took the wheels off, caliper off and tried to clean but the problem came back within a week. In the end I just stripped the caliper down. Changed the piston, seals and Bleed nipple, re-fitted to the car, Bled the system and Hey Presto! Brakes 10x better than they were before :)
Not a difficult job to do. Of you can change brake pads and discs, you can do the rebuild. Around £45 for A complete front set of re build kits. Plenty of how too guides around.

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
 
I've had both sides seize within weeks of one another on a BMW. It is unusual for both sides to seize simultaneously but not impossible. What is also possible is that the "slider" bolts are sticking. In my experience many garages rush brake work and do not clean them properly when fitting new pads etc. ATE type calipers have combined retention/slider bolts on which you get hard "carbonised" brake dust which can be cleaned with wire wool before a light lubrication. These deposits cause the caliper to bind/stick immediately after braking.

When the calipers themselves (as opposed to sticking sliders) seize it is usually because the piston seals twist due to age/hardening or a damaged dust cover allowing moisture/dirt to corrode, and roughen, the piston wall which again causes the seal to twist.

Refurb kits are a money saving option and can be a bit tricky to fit but there are plenty of "how to" vids on youtube. I've used the firm on the attached link.

https://brakeparts.co.uk/
 
I've had both sides seize within weeks of one another on a BMW. It is unusual for both sides to seize simultaneously but not impossible. What is also possible is that the "slider" bolts are sticking. In my experience many garages rush brake work and do not clean them properly when fitting new pads etc. ATE type calipers have combined retention/slider bolts on which you get hard "carbonised" brake dust which can be cleaned with wire wool before a light lubrication. These deposits cause the caliper to bind/stick immediately after braking.

When the calipers themselves (as opposed to sticking sliders) seize it is usually because the piston seals twist due to age/hardening or a damaged dust cover allowing moisture/dirt to corrode, and roughen, the piston wall which again causes the seal to twist.

Refurb kits are a money saving option and can be a bit tricky to fit but there are plenty of "how to" vids on youtube. I've used the firm on the attached link.

https://brakeparts.co.uk/
I too can vouch for the above firm. Used them last time, prompt service

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
 

Similar threads