Another 2.0TDI EGR Valve Cleaning Thread - with before and after pics.
- Thread starter Richardesty
- Start date
sorry, autocorrect on my phone. Seems there was a blockage somewhere in the manifold? Hooked the battery up to another car and kept trying to start the engine. Finally turned over, did a quick motorway blast at the top of the rev range in each gear and running sweet as a nut now. Smoothest and quickest the car has been in the 2 years I've had it. Absolutely no black smoke at all.
Aside from the panic once I'd finished up I'm much much happier with the car
Hi everyone,
Audi A4 S Line B7 2.0 TDI 2007 89K miles
I've got a quick question hope you can all help, my car went limp about a week ago, since then its been very random with its low end power, something like 1 in 8 acceleration from standstill and the car would perform as normal, then 200m down the down as i slowed down then went to accelerate again it would go limp. I've now cleared out the EGR valve with the help of this thread (i'll upload my own pictures and write up later here) but the car is still limp, though its now more like 50% where the car behaves nornally and when it does it definitely feels better, but then randomly goes limp again. Also at about 40-50mph the car all of a sudden kicks in to life and drives normally again without being from standstill.
I have had it plugged in to a computer at my local garage and it did show the EGR malfuntion with no other errors.
Now my question is, if the EGR error came on before i cleared it out, do i now need to clear the error before the car behaves 100% of the time or should it work straight after cleaning and the error should clear its self? Or does it sound like the EGR is knacked and does need replacing?
The large valve moves freely but the small one at the top only moves about 1 degree using my finger, is that normal? or should i be able to turn it fully?
Lastly is by driving the car in this state causing any damage? or os it ok to drive just without any low end power.
thanks in advance
Audi A4 S Line B7 2.0 TDI 2007 89K miles
I've got a quick question hope you can all help, my car went limp about a week ago, since then its been very random with its low end power, something like 1 in 8 acceleration from standstill and the car would perform as normal, then 200m down the down as i slowed down then went to accelerate again it would go limp. I've now cleared out the EGR valve with the help of this thread (i'll upload my own pictures and write up later here) but the car is still limp, though its now more like 50% where the car behaves nornally and when it does it definitely feels better, but then randomly goes limp again. Also at about 40-50mph the car all of a sudden kicks in to life and drives normally again without being from standstill.
I have had it plugged in to a computer at my local garage and it did show the EGR malfuntion with no other errors.
Now my question is, if the EGR error came on before i cleared it out, do i now need to clear the error before the car behaves 100% of the time or should it work straight after cleaning and the error should clear its self? Or does it sound like the EGR is knacked and does need replacing?
The large valve moves freely but the small one at the top only moves about 1 degree using my finger, is that normal? or should i be able to turn it fully?
Lastly is by driving the car in this state causing any damage? or os it ok to drive just without any low end power.
thanks in advance
Hi there. I hope I'm not repeating any of the questions asked.
I own an Audi a4 B8 2009 2.0 tdi and I live in South Africa. Had it in for a check up and Audi centre Pretoria and they told me that there were two gaskets that needed to be replaced on the Egr valve but than I could do it later.
Now that the time has come for me to order the parts, they tell me that the one is an Oring type of seal and that it only comes with the whole EGR valve itself which is R6000!!! I was hoping someone could mabey post a link to somewhere that I can buy the correct seals(I understand that there are 3 of them altogether) for my make and model and maybe import them so that I can do the job myself?Thanks in advance, I have found the forum very helpful.
I own an Audi a4 B8 2009 2.0 tdi and I live in South Africa. Had it in for a check up and Audi centre Pretoria and they told me that there were two gaskets that needed to be replaced on the Egr valve but than I could do it later.
Now that the time has come for me to order the parts, they tell me that the one is an Oring type of seal and that it only comes with the whole EGR valve itself which is R6000!!! I was hoping someone could mabey post a link to somewhere that I can buy the correct seals(I understand that there are 3 of them altogether) for my make and model and maybe import them so that I can do the job myself?Thanks in advance, I have found the forum very helpful.
Are these still the correct parts for a 2008 (B7) 170 2.0 tdi?! Any difference in seals across the different power outputs?
I did this job today on our 170 BRD. It really was simple and the parts were easily sourced from Audi, I just gave them the vehicle reg and told them I was going to clean the EGR valve, they confirmed the parts I needed which came to £13. The car seems to be driving smoother with a bit more power and throttle seems a little more responsive too. Just follow the guide on the first page of this thread and you can't go wrong.
Bad news
I've got a code P0401
I guess il need to clean the EGR
so as long as I get these
Originally Posted by Richardesty
U03G 131 547 F Z30 Gasket
U03L 131 547 B Z25 Seal
U069 131 547 D DR1C Gasket
I should be ok ?
I used the scan guage 2 and cleared it so hopefully it won't come again but will get it cleaned
I've got a code P0401
I guess il need to clean the EGR
so as long as I get these
Originally Posted by Richardesty
U03G 131 547 F Z30 Gasket
U03L 131 547 B Z25 Seal
U069 131 547 D DR1C Gasket
I should be ok ?
I used the scan guage 2 and cleared it so hopefully it won't come again but will get it cleaned
Hi All, this really is an excellent thread on EGR valves.
After the AA diagnosed an EGR fault on my 2007 2.0 Tdi, 60,000 miles with a remap. I followed the instructions above and put the whole thing back in a couple of hours. After refitting the EGR the light was back on, but on start up it went off. An extensive test drive gave me amazing power or nothing at all. It was very random. clearly the cleaning has improved performance but may be the EGR is not working properly.
I realise now that one thing I may have missed is the opening and closing of the valve, does anyone have any pictures of it open? Does it slide back a few mm or does it spin? I may have to take it off again over the weekend to clean again if it is meant to spin like the anti-shudder valve.
Thanks, Alan
After the AA diagnosed an EGR fault on my 2007 2.0 Tdi, 60,000 miles with a remap. I followed the instructions above and put the whole thing back in a couple of hours. After refitting the EGR the light was back on, but on start up it went off. An extensive test drive gave me amazing power or nothing at all. It was very random. clearly the cleaning has improved performance but may be the EGR is not working properly.
I realise now that one thing I may have missed is the opening and closing of the valve, does anyone have any pictures of it open? Does it slide back a few mm or does it spin? I may have to take it off again over the weekend to clean again if it is meant to spin like the anti-shudder valve.
Thanks, Alan
Stevie170
Registered User
ive been watching this thread and I too went and bought the gaskets for a couple of quid as I was going to attempt cleaning mine out, as its started to make a horribly sounding rattle, turns out I new one of the lads at wearside audi and he got one of the lads out to have a listen. think he said it was the actuator constantly trying to open or close a stuck 'flap', like a crunching metal sound it was. he then advised me to just replace the lot as it would be a waste of time cleaning it. so I then started looking at just getting it blanked off instead to find that it will just put more ****e through my dpf filter.
so after calling durham remaps im now taking the plunge and going for the full works, dpf and egr delte with performance map, so after a dodgy egr valve and all that work I cant wait to feel the results!
so after calling durham remaps im now taking the plunge and going for the full works, dpf and egr delte with performance map, so after a dodgy egr valve and all that work I cant wait to feel the results!
I've given up on my EGR. , the EML has been left as it is lol I thought the BKD engine didn't have the DPF ?
How much is full works costing you , look foward to the outcome of your results
Stevie170
Registered User
£500. Think it's £450 for 2wd.
To be quite honest I don't even know for sure if it has a dpf, had the car 16 month with no warning light or limp mode and most of my driving is just weekends around town, bad I know.
I think I can see what I think is the dpf judging from pictures. Unless the last person has already had it gutted out and fitted back and remapped it, first decent car I've had and never drove another similar so I guess I'd never know if it had been done before.
If its already done then it's just an egr delete for me so I'll save quite a bit money although I'll be secretly gutted if my car won't go any faster!
Feel like it's lacking power the last few weeks anyway and then the noise from the egr started, so it's probably blocked up that much it's not functioning properly.
I'm avoiding driving it until I take it in as it sounds like somthing is getting crunched up inside there and scared incase anything goes into the engine.
Just had a look on another thread ,
8P2 140pd models= no dpf
8P3 140cr models = dpf. :-(
Mine is just a EGR delete then lol
So, I have a question: how do I find out if my car has a DPF? My engine code is BRE095589, 2006 A4 S-Line with 74k. I'm sure mines a 140PD but not entirely sure.
I'm going to have a go at the clean as I get a a little judder now and again when the engines ticking over, but it can also cause a judder or two in first gear when pulling away. Had a similar problem on my old Golf and cleaning the throttle body out cured it.
Hopefully this will too!
I'm going to have a go at the clean as I get a a little judder now and again when the engines ticking over, but it can also cause a judder or two in first gear when pulling away. Had a similar problem on my old Golf and cleaning the throttle body out cured it.
Hopefully this will too!
Unless someone wants to step in, I believe the BRE is a 140 and won't have a dpf.
I was hoping someone would say that: and I hope you're right, that answer would please me immensely!
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Hi, I have a B7 140 remapped to 180 there is no DPF.
The judder is the same I have it's common and I would say your symptoms are the DMF same as mine
The judder is the same I have it's common and I would say your symptoms are the DMF same as mine
Hi, after reading this thread last night I decided to whip the egr off and give it a clean as I've had the car 3 month and didn't know if the previous owner would have cleaned it. As suspected it was quite dirty, not as bad as some of the pics you guys have posted but bad enough. So basically gave it a good clean and re - fitted using the gaskets I took off. Took the car out and it does seem a touch better but have noticed when I turn my car off........wait for it........NO SHUDDER AT ALL!!! Before I cleaned the egr I did have a slight judder when turning the car off but now it has gone. My thinking is that the previous owner may have cleaned the egr and not fully tightened all bolts back up. Anyway great thread, couldn't have done it without it 
Ok, here goes. I took the EGR valve off in about 5 minutes, open up the electrical box and there was the problem. A series of gears made of plastic and of course they are worn, so occasionally it would catch and work fine. Other times not.
There is no point trying to fix it. On Ebay P.w.europarts are supplying the complete unit delivered next day for £169.95. Bargain compared to all the other companies and they looked up the car to check they were supplying the correct valve before calling back. Will let you all know in a day or so how I am getting in. Alan
There is no point trying to fix it. On Ebay P.w.europarts are supplying the complete unit delivered next day for £169.95. Bargain compared to all the other companies and they looked up the car to check they were supplying the correct valve before calling back. Will let you all know in a day or so how I am getting in. Alan
Stevie170
Registered User
Well.... Had my dpf, egr delete and remap today.
The egr has stopped rattling, they said the car was already stupidly mapped with massive strain on the injectors so has levelled everything out how it should be, and then advised me that the turbo is whistling like mad and that it may not last too long. So, £450 down and a car that is exactly the same minus the dpf filter basically. I hope they are honest and have done their best to sort out the map. I just feel like they've advised me on the turbo and the injectors incase I come back with problems with them in the near future, who wants a bet that I've got problems from now on!
I just feel gutted really and that I've just lost £450 and havnt got anymore power
Anyway. I know taking the dpf out will make it whistle a bit but it was more or less silent until it's been there today. Now it is really loud, with the wastegate fluttering away between gears. Now I don't mind the noise but is turbo whistle a bad thing? Just a bit confused, they've made my turbo whistle like mad, yet they've advised me on it to ?!
Any thoughts welcome, feeling down in the dumps at the minute, just feel like I'm going to be waiting for things to go wrong now
The egr has stopped rattling, they said the car was already stupidly mapped with massive strain on the injectors so has levelled everything out how it should be, and then advised me that the turbo is whistling like mad and that it may not last too long. So, £450 down and a car that is exactly the same minus the dpf filter basically. I hope they are honest and have done their best to sort out the map. I just feel like they've advised me on the turbo and the injectors incase I come back with problems with them in the near future, who wants a bet that I've got problems from now on!
I just feel gutted really and that I've just lost £450 and havnt got anymore power
Anyway. I know taking the dpf out will make it whistle a bit but it was more or less silent until it's been there today. Now it is really loud, with the wastegate fluttering away between gears. Now I don't mind the noise but is turbo whistle a bad thing? Just a bit confused, they've made my turbo whistle like mad, yet they've advised me on it to ?!
Any thoughts welcome, feeling down in the dumps at the minute, just feel like I'm going to be waiting for things to go wrong now
A little addition to this thread, if anyone could point me in the right direction. I was getting a flat spot at lower revs with lots of black smoke coming out the back. Took the EGr off to clean and check only to find the small flap had broken of the rod so bought a new valve along with the 3 required gaskets. Having put the new valve on I now get a slight judder and rattle when I turn off the engine, but also it can now be a pain to start with the same rattling sound when turning it over. Any ideas why changing the EGR and gaskets would suddenly start this? Cheers in advance
Hi, I'm hoping to find some help here. From what many previous drivers have mentioned here, I seem to have an EGR issue. I drive a Golf TDI mk6, (I know this is an audi forum, but can't find as much detail on this issue anywhere else). Drove on highway, no harsh acceleration caused it to go into limp mode, with the resulting coil indicator. Took it to my local, fault code reads EGR. Quoted around 4-500GBP to fix it. I've literally just replaced the timing belt, so not keen to spend more right now! It seems to show up as a common fault, many people mentioned the use of cheaper diesel as opposed to premium etc..regardless, I have to get it fixed. I have 3 options:
1.Try Clean the EGR valve myself - have read on forums many people use Wynns EGR cleaner.
2. If that does not work, pay and get garage to replace EGR valve $$$!
3. Replace it myself!
The way I see it, I'll try clean it myself first and take it from there!
heres a tut I've found for it:
My question now is this - I've read on the varioius forums that the EGR is easy to clean/replace, depending on the model of your car (and thus WHERE the sensor physically is). VW has quoted over 1000GPB to some users stating that "the EGR valve has moved in the new engine, and it takes 7 hours labour to do!).
here an EGR removal vid I found, but on an older model golf:
Can anyone tell me where it's situated on the newer golf? Because if it is a 7 hour professional mechanic job, can I tackle this myself using a vw workshop manual from halfords to save money?
I've read that audi/vw engines are the same, so if I follow vids/pics made on Audi 2.0 TDI engines, is it basically the same thing?
Any advice much appreciated!
1.Try Clean the EGR valve myself - have read on forums many people use Wynns EGR cleaner.
2. If that does not work, pay and get garage to replace EGR valve $$$!
3. Replace it myself!
The way I see it, I'll try clean it myself first and take it from there!
heres a tut I've found for it:
My question now is this - I've read on the varioius forums that the EGR is easy to clean/replace, depending on the model of your car (and thus WHERE the sensor physically is). VW has quoted over 1000GPB to some users stating that "the EGR valve has moved in the new engine, and it takes 7 hours labour to do!).
here an EGR removal vid I found, but on an older model golf:
Can anyone tell me where it's situated on the newer golf? Because if it is a 7 hour professional mechanic job, can I tackle this myself using a vw workshop manual from halfords to save money?
I've read that audi/vw engines are the same, so if I follow vids/pics made on Audi 2.0 TDI engines, is it basically the same thing?
Any advice much appreciated!
On a mk6 golf tdi the EGR valve is situated at the back of the engine underneath the turbo, above the driveshaft.
It is by all accounts a right pain of a job - http://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/f50/egr-valve-replacement-13577.html
It is by all accounts a right pain of a job - http://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/f50/egr-valve-replacement-13577.html
Cheers guys will give it a try tomorrow. I take it I don't need to doing anything with VCDS is it a straight swap.
white.akita
Registered User
Hello all,
this may be a silly question but when you take the EGR assy off does any coolant come out? i ask because on past cars ive owned this happens so would like to know before i take it off.
Cheers guys.
this may be a silly question but when you take the EGR assy off does any coolant come out? i ask because on past cars ive owned this happens so would like to know before i take it off.
Cheers guys.
Ianski68
Registered User
i would suggest to anyone going this far to whip the head of and clean the swirl flaps and replace the vacuum unit. To note: look out for the hidden bolt inside the manifold usually camoflaged under a pile of crud to make things harder.....lol
As Ian has said (I've said that once or twice already today) but for the sake of £11 or so get a new flap actuator as this can only be done with the manifold off.
I have a a4 2.0tdi 170bhp on a 56 plate.i had the engine managment light come on .Everything pointed to the egr so i replaced woth a new one.The light is still on so i had terraclean and a full serivce done also repaced a vacume block.The light is still on so running out of ideas now .Can anyone help please
Hi,
Is anyone able to confirm which gaskets/seals are the items in question I need to order please? On a BKD the system looks like the below, but I can only find one of those part numbers originally mentioned in the parts list (https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a3+s3+sportb+lim+qu/a3/2006-412/1/131-131080/)
One of the gaskets is definitely number 6...
Link to list of all part numbers: https://www.dropbox.com/s/43470om5soq6qdm/exhaust gas recirculation - Audi A3_S3_Sportb._Lim._qu(A3) [EUROPA 2006 year].pdf
Cheers in advance!
For reference, I've got the following 2 fault codes - both have "restricted exhaust gas flow" as possible causes.
001025 - EGR System
P0401 - 000 - Insufficient Flow
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01110000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 282385 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2021.11.20
Time: 08:36:19
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1302 /min
Speed: 69.0 km/h
Load: 16.9 %
Duty Cycle: 14.6 %
Duty Cycle: 100.2 %
Mass Air / Rev.: 340.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 725.0 mg/str
000257 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0101 - 000 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01110000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 282386 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2021.11.20
Time: 08:38:28
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2037 /min
Speed: 51.0 km/h
Temperature: 1.8°C
Absolute Pres.: 1183.2 mbar
Mass Flow: 48.36 g/s
(no units): 0.74
Temperature: 57.6°C
Is anyone able to confirm which gaskets/seals are the items in question I need to order please? On a BKD the system looks like the below, but I can only find one of those part numbers originally mentioned in the parts list (https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a3+s3+sportb+lim+qu/a3/2006-412/1/131-131080/)
One of the gaskets is definitely number 6...
Link to list of all part numbers: https://www.dropbox.com/s/43470om5soq6qdm/exhaust gas recirculation - Audi A3_S3_Sportb._Lim._qu(A3) [EUROPA 2006 year].pdf
Cheers in advance!
For reference, I've got the following 2 fault codes - both have "restricted exhaust gas flow" as possible causes.
001025 - EGR System
P0401 - 000 - Insufficient Flow
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01110000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 282385 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2021.11.20
Time: 08:36:19
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1302 /min
Speed: 69.0 km/h
Load: 16.9 %
Duty Cycle: 14.6 %
Duty Cycle: 100.2 %
Mass Air / Rev.: 340.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 725.0 mg/str
000257 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0101 - 000 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01110000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 282386 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2021.11.20
Time: 08:38:28
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2037 /min
Speed: 51.0 km/h
Temperature: 1.8°C
Absolute Pres.: 1183.2 mbar
Mass Flow: 48.36 g/s
(no units): 0.74
Temperature: 57.6°C
I believe the BKD engine has a vacuum operated EGR valve. Why don't you just remove it completely?
Job jobbed.
Job jobbed.
Just an update, managed to remove and clean the EGR valve and re-use the existing seals. Have managed to get hold of ElsaWin which came in very useful - saying which bits to unbolt etc.
Hi mate, the car is getting MOTd tomorrow and being sold - it was just a cheap runaround for a bit so wanted to spend the bare min on it if possible. Cant believe how much crud came out of it!!
Just to confirm, if I do blank it off, the blank goes where the gasket sits? (red line in pic, item 6 in diagram) Cheers
Pic was taken BEFORE cleaning lol
