APU bottom end vs AJL bottom end and ADR head Qs

[flatshifter]

G'day lads,

I have a massive trouble finding a decent AEB, let alone an AJL long block. FYI, I'm building a motor with a goal of 350whp on a dyno dynamics dyno(aka the heart breaker dyno cause it reads low). I've got all the hardware to reach the numbers but need the motor to stay together.

I have a mate who's lending me his engine stand so I can put a used block and head and work from there.

Now, a good mate of mine has an auto APU short block lying at home and will give it to me for free.

Here's the dilemma. My ETKA shat itself and now Im not sure whether they share the same crank(spigot/pilot bearing), as the APU is an auto and mine is an AJL manual Quattro. I'm pretty sure everything else is the same but just unsure on that bit. Any further information is much appreciated.

Now, head talk. A mate of mine who owns a European car wrecking yard has a lot of ADR cylinder heads and will sell me for cheap. They look identical to an AJL/AEB but again, what worries me is little possible difference eg oil port/coolant port. Are they the same as the AJL/AEB?


Thanks in advance



Danny

 

[flatshifter]

Thanks to google, already got my answer

058 Old Style
Came in the 058 external waterpump blocks only in longitudinal cars.(A4, Passat) These all have the “short”, small diameter snout. These cranks are all cast, and come with a toothed 60-2 wheel. There are 2 versions– the difference being the spigot on flywheel end.
Manual These have a pilot bearing pressed into the bulbous spigot on the flywheel end.
Automatic- This has a much flatter protrusion on the flywheel end and no provision for a pilot bearing.

Any info on ADR head is much appreciated.

 

[Broken Byzan]

APU block/bottom end the same as AJL/AEB. still 20mm pins.

ADR head will fit but 2 varients, small and large port, you ideally neerd large port or you'll struggle to get to your 350 Goal. I assume you are going to fit a set of forged rods and run a gt30 or simialr

 

[aragorn]

ADR heads dont have sodium filled exhaust valves, if your not changing the valves for upgraded ones, you'll need to fit Turbo-spec valves in place of the original ones.

 

[flatshifter]

I was expecting replies from either one of you lol. So ADR head it is then so the ADR exhaust valves are solid?

Yes, exhaust valves will be replaced with SS ones if not inconel from supertech..Will also run their valvetrain kit.

Looking into running Piper cams BP300 grind ie 264/267 duration or at least the BP285 ie 256/252. Anyone have experience with them? People in US have just only started using them so awaiting results.

Bottom end will be fully built, nothing crazy like a stroker as I'm not a fan of reducing the rod ratio of 1.67:1 to 1.5'ish :1 the stroker crank will do.

I know 350whp especially on a dyno dynamics is wishful thinking with an MHi TD05H 20G, but apart from racefuel and a custom billet comp wheel, I have some trick up my sleeve to reach that number.


Gotta find a good donor block now.

 

[aragorn]

full on valve train and cams for 350hp seems like a bit of an unneccesary step? I'd have said thats more 500hp territory. I guess if you want a solid foundation to build on then fair enough.

You'd manage 350hp on a bone stock motor (with rods) with the correct turbo/manifold.

I'd be wary of cams tbh, in general all you'll achieve is pushing the powerband upwards. Great for a massive turbo that wants to rev out to 8k+, less good for a sensibly sized 350hp turbo. A mild set might see gains without hurting the bottom end too much, but go too big and you'll find you lose out at the bottom, and your turbo isnt big enough to make it back up top, resulting in a worse performing car overall.


I guess the other issue is your talking in fake american "WHP" figures, rather than actual crank horsepower, and from what i've seen yank figures are so inflated they next to useless when comparing real figures in the UK.

For 350hp, i'd be looking at a GTX2867, and a well designed manifold like the PSI Concepts unit.

 

[flatshifter]

sorry for the delay.


Kev,

When you mention 350hp, a good guess is its very likely at the crank cause we had a B6 1.8T with a fresh new crate motor from VW, GTRS eliminator, 550cc injectors, custom tuned, intercooler etc etc and made 160kw/216hp at the wheels. Say there's 30% loss through the drivetrain, it's making 280hp at the flywheel. Dyno brand is dyno dynamics a.k.a the heart breaker in US lol

I'm pretty sure a GTX2867R would make more than 300hp



Therefore, my goal of 350whp would be around 470hp over there? guess trap speed down the black dyno(quarter mile run) would be a good indicator.


Anyway, I think im running out of options with used AEB/AJL motors....so a quick question. I have access to heaps of ADR motor. Just wondering If they're as strong as the AJL/AEBs? I know they dont have oil squirters, no provisions for oil and coolant feed/return..what else would be the difference?



Thanks boys

 

[flatshifter]

Bump. Anyone?

 

[jcb]

big port is the only way to go for top end flow even at 350.
its just raising temps if you dont

I have an AJL engine for sale (suspect you are far away though)
the big port Head would be postable for a sensible cost though!

 

[flatshifter]

You have PM.