I fitted new Zimmerman discs and pads earlier in the year on my Allroad, 12-plate, 60k miles. I thought I'd been pretty thorough as I wire brush the carriers, grease the slide pins, etc.
Fast forward to October, damper days, the fact the car isn't doing a lot of miles as I'm working from home, and I've got a sticky caliper front and rear N/S.
Audi only do the dust sleeve and square piston seal for the front as far as I'm aware. Anyway, ordered front and rear rebuild kits from Autodoc using Budweg manufacturer. Nice parts.
If you're attempting this, then the fronts are straight forward. Wire brush the bleed nipples, as they will invariably be seized. Also the carrier, especially the edges where the pads sit.
On the rear, I searched for videos, but there's not much on YouTube other than a straight forward pad change. I've got VCDS, so I put the car into start brake lining change and put the battery on a charger.
The strip down involves removing electric mechanical handbrake from the piston. The unit uses two T30 screw bolts, invariably seized. Wire brush, Plus Gas penetrating fluid, then hammer a T30 bit into the bolt heads. Because of the design of the motor, access is tight. A long neck T30 would work and a 1/2" drive. A Torx screwdriver won't shift it, as these things haven't been off since the car was built.
With the motor off and the the brake hose clamped you can start the dismantle. The kit has two 'o' ring seals, one for in the caliper, one for outside to weather proof the electric motor where it connects. Also the square piston seal, the brake slider rubber seals, and a sachet of grease for the sliders.
A tub of red grease is handy for the piston under the sleeve.withe the motor off you can use a Torx bit and a ratchet to extend the piston. With piston out you can start the strip-down. Wire brush the caliper, metal file, etc
These Volvo V70 videos are good. Note the broken motor screw on the caliper. More of that later.
On the O/S the motor bolt T30 rounded off. I ended up cutting a slot with an angle grinder to use a cross head screw driver. Needless to say it sheared. With the motor off, I disconnected the brake hose so I could do the rebuild on the caliper off the car. I ended up drilling out the bolt. Use a centre punch to start, heat from a blow torch and plenty Plus Gas. 4mm HSS drill bits will take it through, then clean off with 5mm. The hole in M6.
You'll probably find the dust shields are like Swiss cheese where they connect with Torx screws, so either have new standing by or large washers to repair.
Tools required.
10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 18mm spanners
VCDS ideally
Battery charger
Drill with copper wire brush attachments and a metal file
Red grease, ceramic brake paste, DOT 4 brake fluid, marine grease (brake nipples)
G-clamp
1/2" breaker bar
Rubber mallet, useful on 18mm spanner for bolts on brake carrier
Pin hammer and lump hammer
2-tonne trolley jack, axle stands, rubber jacking pad
Torx bits, heavy long handled flat head screwdriver
Brake cleaner
Brake bleeding kit (my wife is practically a master mechanic now)!
Hope this helps if your attempting.
Fast forward to October, damper days, the fact the car isn't doing a lot of miles as I'm working from home, and I've got a sticky caliper front and rear N/S.
Audi only do the dust sleeve and square piston seal for the front as far as I'm aware. Anyway, ordered front and rear rebuild kits from Autodoc using Budweg manufacturer. Nice parts.
If you're attempting this, then the fronts are straight forward. Wire brush the bleed nipples, as they will invariably be seized. Also the carrier, especially the edges where the pads sit.
On the rear, I searched for videos, but there's not much on YouTube other than a straight forward pad change. I've got VCDS, so I put the car into start brake lining change and put the battery on a charger.
The strip down involves removing electric mechanical handbrake from the piston. The unit uses two T30 screw bolts, invariably seized. Wire brush, Plus Gas penetrating fluid, then hammer a T30 bit into the bolt heads. Because of the design of the motor, access is tight. A long neck T30 would work and a 1/2" drive. A Torx screwdriver won't shift it, as these things haven't been off since the car was built.
With the motor off and the the brake hose clamped you can start the dismantle. The kit has two 'o' ring seals, one for in the caliper, one for outside to weather proof the electric motor where it connects. Also the square piston seal, the brake slider rubber seals, and a sachet of grease for the sliders.
A tub of red grease is handy for the piston under the sleeve.withe the motor off you can use a Torx bit and a ratchet to extend the piston. With piston out you can start the strip-down. Wire brush the caliper, metal file, etc
These Volvo V70 videos are good. Note the broken motor screw on the caliper. More of that later.
On the O/S the motor bolt T30 rounded off. I ended up cutting a slot with an angle grinder to use a cross head screw driver. Needless to say it sheared. With the motor off, I disconnected the brake hose so I could do the rebuild on the caliper off the car. I ended up drilling out the bolt. Use a centre punch to start, heat from a blow torch and plenty Plus Gas. 4mm HSS drill bits will take it through, then clean off with 5mm. The hole in M6.
You'll probably find the dust shields are like Swiss cheese where they connect with Torx screws, so either have new standing by or large washers to repair.
Tools required.
10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 18mm spanners
VCDS ideally
Battery charger
Drill with copper wire brush attachments and a metal file
Red grease, ceramic brake paste, DOT 4 brake fluid, marine grease (brake nipples)
G-clamp
1/2" breaker bar
Rubber mallet, useful on 18mm spanner for bolts on brake carrier
Pin hammer and lump hammer
2-tonne trolley jack, axle stands, rubber jacking pad
Torx bits, heavy long handled flat head screwdriver
Brake cleaner
Brake bleeding kit (my wife is practically a master mechanic now)!
Hope this helps if your attempting.
