Best fuses for dashcam fitment?

cemerson

Registered User
Hi all,

Having installed my dashcam about 18 months ago, I STILL struggle to find a decent combination of fuses to power it off. I need one that is on permanently and one that is switched with ignition - but I'm completely unable to find a combination that does this. Currently I'm stuck with a setup that turns itself off when the stop/start kicks in, which isn't ideal. All the fuses I can find in the fuse box are switched with ignition. The only thing I haven't tried yet is using the power socket fuse in the alternative position to provide always on - mainly because I'm using it for my 'switched' feed in the other position at the moment, and my 'always on' wire has a mini fuse attachment currently!

Does anyone have definitive information on which fuses are good to use for each job? I have a nasty suspicion that to get an always-on feed I'm going to need to run a wire to the other fuse box under the bonnet, but I hope that isn't necessary.
 

Wondering Soul

Registered User
Let me know your vehicle details and I'll have a look at the diagram on ELSA for you if you want. I'll have a quick look at mine as I can't remember what I used as a constant live.
 

jasonc

Registered User
I've been using F26 (Seat Heating) and F40 (12v sockets) for my camera for a year without any problems:

KWGlEwB.jpg
 

cemerson

Registered User
Let me know your vehicle details and I'll have a look at the diagram on ELSA for you if you want. I'll have a quick look at mine as I can't remember what I used as a constant live.

Details as in my signature. I have ELSA myself and had a look at one time but couldn't dig up any useful information. I've tried several of the suggestions from other threads on here with no luck so far.
 

cemerson

Registered User
I've been using F26 (Seat Heating) and F40 (12v sockets) for my camera for a year without any problems:

KWGlEwB.jpg
Yes, I assume you are using the 12V socket for the permanent live? I think I may be trying the same, though annoyingly my mini add a fuse and standard sized add a fuse are the wrong way round at the moment so will have to do some resoldering!
 

Wondering Soul

Registered User
Have a look through this thread. Good detailed guide on fitting and the later part of it details fuse selection. I used the 12v socket fuse for the switched (fuse SC40) live and fuse SC44 for the permanent live (can't remember off the top of my head what this fuse covers).

image.jpg1.jpg

image.jpg1_2.jpg
 

Wondering Soul

Registered User
After checking, my placement probably wouldn't work for you as I believe the permanent live I'm using is only permanent on the petrol model, it's responsible for something else on the diesel.
 

cemerson

Registered User
You're using the 12V socket for permanent live - why would it be different for diesel? It also has the '2 way' socket which lets you switch between live and switched. I'm going to give it a try this weekend.
 

Wondering Soul

Registered User
My 12v is in the switched live position, the other fuse provides a constant live on my setup, which is only used on the petrol according to ELSA.
 

adrianbo

Registered User
I have retro fitted foot well lights and i taped into the 7.5 shown in the picture. This turns on when you unlock car and the light goes on. It stays on until you turn off the ignition and lock the car.
Its really good for wiring extra interior light. Maybe its useful for your case.
 

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cemerson

Registered User
My 12v is in the switched live position, the other fuse provides a constant live on my setup, which is only used on the petrol according to ELSA.

F44 is the 4 wheel drive system according to my handbook, so I'm not sure why that would be petrol specific. However, I think I've tried that fuse before and found it to be 'switched'.
 

Wondering Soul

Registered User
F44 is the 4 wheel drive system according to my handbook, so I'm not sure why that would be petrol specific. However, I think I've tried that fuse before and found it to be 'switched'.
Yeah that's it; it's the Haldex Controller fuse. I only mentioned that it is specific to that model as ELSA lists this fuse as being responsible for something else on the diesel. I've been using the camera installed in this way and have yet to experience any power issues at all. Both when in 'park' mode and 'always on' mode.

Had a play around with start/stop and doesn't seem to cause any power issues (not that I use it, ever) and also with the central locking causing power failure when unlocking the car, neither of which I experience. The only intermittent issue I had was with my ground connection that caused a power failure on a couple occasions until I could re-fit a long wire to the camera.
 

cemerson

Registered User
Tried 2 more fuses today, including the 'live' position of the 12V socket fuse, still no luck. Camera powers off quite often, including during stop/start.
 

ANA

Registered User
Hi all,

Having installed my dashcam about 18 months ago, I STILL struggle to find a decent combination of fuses to power it off. I need one that is on permanently and one that is switched with ignition - but I'm completely unable to find a combination that does this. Currently I'm stuck with a setup that turns itself off when the stop/start kicks in, which isn't ideal. All the fuses I can find in the fuse box are switched with ignition. The only thing I haven't tried yet is using the power socket fuse in the alternative position to provide always on - mainly because I'm using it for my 'switched' feed in the other position at the moment, and my 'always on' wire has a mini fuse attachment currently!

Does anyone have definitive information on which fuses are good to use for each job? I have a nasty suspicion that to get an always-on feed I'm going to need to run a wire to the other fuse box under the bonnet, but I hope that isn't necessary.
I've been using F26 (Seat Heating) and F40 (12v sockets) for my camera for a year without any problems:

KWGlEwB.jpg
Hi,can you help me?I have car dvr as in the picture,I have no idea a fuse plug in and where.I have Audi A3 S line 2013
 

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azibux1

Registered User
Did you try the suggested F40 and F26?

I used cigarette lighter (in ignition live position, lower out of the two positions) and an empty slot I found for permanent live (I believe it was top left normal size fuse slot, can't remember number unfortunately)
 

ANA

Registered User
Did you try the suggested F40 and F26?

I used cigarette lighter (in ignition live position, lower out of the two positions) and an empty slot I found for permanent live (I believe it was top left normal size fuse slot, can't remember number unfortunately)
I could,but fuses are small,I do not know what to do.
 

azibux1

Registered User
Correct, the fuse box uses a mix of mini blade fuses and regular blade fuses

You have fuse taps purchased? Which size are they?

When myself and a lot of others here fitted dashcams we used two regular blade fuse taps, NOT mini ones
 

ANA

Registered User
Correct, the fuse box uses a mix of mini blade fuses and regular blade fuses

You have fuse taps purchased? Which size are they?

When myself and a lot of others here fitted dashcams we used two regular blade fuse taps, NOT mini ones
My fuses from the DVR as size like F17,18,19
 

azibux1

Registered User

azibux1

Registered User
I know, I'm suggesting purchasing regular blade fuses and fuse taps instead... They are not hardwired to your DVR... or are they?
 

azibux1

Registered User
These are what I used

www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EFLD1JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need two.

And if you say the ones you have are hardwired to your DVR, then you'll need to cut those off, strip a bit of the wire and crimp the wires into these new ones. I use a proper crimping tool, but if you don't have one I'm not sure if pliers would work well or not.

That's my advice anyway, but I'm sure others will agree as they've all done similar with using regular fuse taps, as opposed to mini
 

ANA

Registered User
These are what I used

www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EFLD1JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need two.

And if you say the ones you have are hardwired to your DVR, then you'll need to cut those off, strip a bit of the wire and crimp the wires into these new ones. I use a proper crimping tool, but if you don't have one I'm not sure if pliers would work well or not.

That's my advice anyway, but I'm sure others will agree as they've all done similar with using regular fuse taps, as opposed to mini
OK thanks for your help
 

azibux1

Registered User
Just seen this which makes your private message make more sense

Whether F40 is acc or btt depends on the position you have the fuse in

Upper is for btt, lower is for acc.. It is a fuse that can be in two positions depending if you want it on after the car or not
 

Tom Shields

Member
VCDS Map User
All I will say is that I had very little luck with finding a suitable mini blade fuse pair (accessory and permanent live) to use for my Blackvue dashcam.

Some good advice in this post

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...d-a-blackvue-dr650gw-2ch.248726/#post-2673153

Especially from @Rob2k68 and @jungle650 who help me get mine working, I believe all three of us used the same pair of regular blade fuses

Can you not order regular blade fuse taps to use instead?

Hey Bud,

Which fuse numbers did you end up using? I'm installing my BlackVue now and struggling to find a pair that will work. I've got two regular sized ATC / ATO fuse taps.

T
 

azibux1

Registered User
Hey Bud,

Which fuse numbers did you end up using? I'm installing my BlackVue now and struggling to find a pair that will work. I've got two regular sized ATC / ATO fuse taps.

T
Hi mate,

Just going by memory as I don't actually have the car anymore (I only saw this post as I got emailed about it).

I think for permanent live I moved the 12v socket one into the appropriate position (it has 3 pins and you use top two or bottom two to switch between ignition and permanent live).

And for ignition live I think I used something to do with the MMI system as it was ignition live and non-critical like ABS or something lol

Hope that helps!
 
M

MrFlibble

Guest
Hey Bud,
Which fuse numbers did you end up using? I'm installing my BlackVue now and struggling to find a pair that will work. I've got two regular sized ATC / ATO fuse taps.
Very simply, the top half (top 2 rows of mini fuses F4-F21) are permanent, and the bottom row (f32-F37) is ignition switched. The full size fuses follow basically the same rule.

However, the battery voltage on the 8V A3 is kept very low by the ECU. The voltage is so low under normal conditions with the engine stopped, that if your camera has "battery discharge protection" it will shut off thinking your car battery is flat. You will need to change the auto-switch off voltage on the camera to 11 V or lower; if you have it set to 12 V or higher, then the camera will cut out all the time.
 

zhizeng

Registered User
Very simply, the top half (top 2 rows of mini fuses F4-F21) are permanent, and the bottom row (f32-F37) is ignition switched. The full size fuses follow basically the same rule.
This is what I need. Been search the web for hours, didn't have a straight answer. And this quote covered it all. Thank you MrFlibble.
 
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