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Hi,
I have bought myself a 2002 Audi TT 225
Long story short - I am starting to feel my age and have fell out of love with laying under my Noggy S3 trying to keep it happy, so whilst the S3 is still on Axle stands, I have moved onto it's hotter sister, I am prepared to discover that this is just as high maintenance as it's rough & ready S3.
I am planning on removing my purchased Stage 2 modifications from my AMK then move on permanently to the TT
I might just skip over those sensible modifications and fit a forge spiltter
I didn't think it had been mapped as it is a pretty conservative drive, but on the way home collecting it yesterday I did put my foot down on a stretch in 3rd gear and it registered 195 g/s and 20psi (via Android Torque) over about 5500 rpm (~243BHP) - so it must have the Stage 1 map with quite a low torque onset.
It's also got one of these fitted (although not fully setup yet, radio doesn't work for some reason)
Will scan the car for faults tomorrow and clear the airbag fault.
Pretty sure I will discover the clutch switch and one of the ESP sensors behind glove box or under steering wheel will be flagged up.
Before making any serious modifications, I will change the timing belt and water pump as the last recorded change in service history was 75K.
So obviously a couple of little questions if someone could help out I will be grateful.
The driver door window does not drop 2 cm on open and return when the door is closed, passenger side okay. is this easy to check? - it does actually mean the window isn't properly seated - I had a similar thing on my wife's old BMW 1.8is
The S3 and TT engines are identical If I decide to change the Timing Belt and Water Pump myself is this process exactly the same, or are some of the engine mounts different?
The bonnet release is very stiff, is there a procedure to try and sort this out? it just feels like the cable will break.
Thanks
Stuart
I have bought myself a 2002 Audi TT 225
Long story short - I am starting to feel my age and have fell out of love with laying under my Noggy S3 trying to keep it happy, so whilst the S3 is still on Axle stands, I have moved onto it's hotter sister, I am prepared to discover that this is just as high maintenance as it's rough & ready S3.
I am planning on removing my purchased Stage 2 modifications from my AMK then move on permanently to the TT
- B5 TIP and Heat shield
- 3in DP and sports cat
- FMIC and pipework
- Upgraded Dogbone Engine mount
I might just skip over those sensible modifications and fit a forge spiltter
I didn't think it had been mapped as it is a pretty conservative drive, but on the way home collecting it yesterday I did put my foot down on a stretch in 3rd gear and it registered 195 g/s and 20psi (via Android Torque) over about 5500 rpm (~243BHP) - so it must have the Stage 1 map with quite a low torque onset.
It's also got one of these fitted (although not fully setup yet, radio doesn't work for some reason)
Pretty sure I will discover the clutch switch and one of the ESP sensors behind glove box or under steering wheel will be flagged up.
Before making any serious modifications, I will change the timing belt and water pump as the last recorded change in service history was 75K.
So obviously a couple of little questions if someone could help out I will be grateful.
The driver door window does not drop 2 cm on open and return when the door is closed, passenger side okay. is this easy to check? - it does actually mean the window isn't properly seated - I had a similar thing on my wife's old BMW 1.8is
The S3 and TT engines are identical If I decide to change the Timing Belt and Water Pump myself is this process exactly the same, or are some of the engine mounts different?
The bonnet release is very stiff, is there a procedure to try and sort this out? it just feels like the cable will break.
Thanks
Stuart