Bolt in Tyre Valves

[quattrogone]

As per title, I've had the spare set of Dynamik Special Ed alloys powder coated and I'm having a problem with losing air, the tyre fitter has replaced the valves once and tried sealing the worst offenders out of the 4.
He's now suggested that I buy a set of decent bolt in valves as the design of the wheel coupled with the powder coating process has probably caused the issue.
Anyone got any suggestions as I don't want to buy some cheap ebay product only for the issue to continue..

 

[Garrett 69]

I've used the Team Dynamics Flush Fit valves on OZ, Momo and Fox alloys in the past and they've proven pretty good. IIRC, they were about £25 a set.

 

[quattrogone]

I've used the Team Dynamics Flush Fit valves on OZ, Momo and Fox alloys in the past and they've proven pretty good. IIRC, they were about £25 a set.

Thanks for that I'll track a set down

 

[rum4mo]

I've had that annoying problem since I got a set of 18" Audi 5 spoke alloys refurbished back in late 2013, I've had all the valves replaced with usual type, then had a second go at getting one sorted again - and that failed to fix that issue for more than a few months, with the comment from the local tyre fitter "that is the last time that changing valves will sort that if it does - these wheels need re-powder coated! Which I will probably get done this summer, but it does point out a probably issue for anyone getting alloys refinished using powder coating, my guess was, in my case, that either the powder coater or Costco needed to open up the valve holes and they did that a bit off centre and so there is an area of alloy that has been exposed. I really can't see fitting any type of bolt on valves sorting that out as there is now a weak/rough area on the sealing surface that can only ever get sorted by another process, or just get them re-powder coated. I don't know if the alloy wheel aftermarket/supply people can machine and if necessary sleeve that area to return it to being okay again, I'd be interested to know if anyone has the answer though.

 

[quattrogone]

I think it's more down to my Phat alloys in this case as I have two sets and the winters have bolt in's and I've not had the problem with them, and the fresh set that have just been powder coated did have bolt in's fitted but the sand blaster left them in so they got totally fubard! At the moment the tyre fitters have put in standard valves as they had no bolt in's at the time.
Just trying to find a set of decent bolt in valves that aren't "flush fitting" or ting tong rubbish on ebay!

 

[Tamplin]

Dynamik alloys need the bolt it type due to the hollow spoke design. I had standard valves in and kept losing pressure. I had them
Refurbished as they were corroding around the valves due to the fact that water was getting in around the standard rubber valves.
The company that actually refurbed the wheels pointed this out to me and arranged to get new valves from TPS and fitted them once they finished the wheels

 

[quattrogone]

Yeah it's basically what I've come to, the standard valved actually look like the don't sit in the alloy properly..

 

[Tamplin]

Yeah it's basically what I've come to, the standard valved actually look like the don't sit in the alloy properly..

Yeah I believe the standard valve seals on the outer part of the alloy meaning the air is actually filling up the inside of the spokes. The metal valves seal on the inside of the alloy, while also sealing the outside to stop water and debris entering the spoke

 

[rum4mo]

Hummmm, I can see that my best plan will be to fit bolt in valves to my Audi 18" 5 spoke alloys I use in winter time, after I have got them refurbed.

I'm assuming here that most bolt in tyre valves are sized to be able to fit onto standard Audi alloys that left the factory with "pull in/on|" normal rubber tyre valves?

 

[quattrogone]

Just an update on this, at last I've found a source for the valves that actually fit and do up properly and an added bonus is that I can get the caps on and off with ease as opposed the the cheap ebay ones fitted that were shorter meaning I needed thin nosed plyers just for the caps!
These are fat and fit so I don't foresee any leaking issues like I have been putting up with all summer, when I fit the winter tyres soon I'll know for sure.

It's the one on the left that you need to get as you can see the thread for the bolt goes up my further than the one on the right, ebay and the web are littered with the right hand version and even thinner ones but these will not work properly.
Anyone need the link then just pm me as I don't think it's fair on site sponsor's if I put it in this thread.

 

[rum4mo]

I finally got my leaking Audi 5 spoke alloys that I use in winter re-powder coated, before I did this, I bought a 5th alloy just in case one of my leaking wheels was too badly corroded at the valve hole.

So, and this is not the same power coater that initially powder coated these used Audi 5 spoke alloy 9 years ago, but when I collected the wheels with their tyres, I spotted a very small mark at the edge of the valve recess on all these wheels with tyres, then I looked at the 5th wheel which is either the one I bought recently or one of the original 4 I bought, and looked at the area where the valve hole is - and yes, the hole in that alloy has been crudely cleared of any "extra" powder costing and has a a small area of powder coating where all the other had it! So, as they are now "Gunmetal Grey" I guessed that Audi Manhattan Grey would cover up these slight areas of damage. Well that will work on the 5th alloy that still has not got a tyre on it - for the other 4, after covering as much of the damaged area as possible, I once again tried to force some red rubber grease down onto the points where the rubber valves pass through the alloy - so I'm back to where I started 9 years ago, although this time I now know what is causing this leaking at the valve holes and done as much as I can to slow that down. The proper way to sort this with freshly re-coated alloys would have been to remove all 4 valves and tyres, clean up and cover the affected area on all wheels and then get new valves and the tyres refitted.

At least I now know at which point in this process the damage is getting done, it is just a pity that while both these powder coating companies advertise that they refurbish alloys, they have not thought this process through completely with respect to alloy wheels, a bit disappointing really!

I'd think that even if fitting bolt on valves you should closely examine that area and clean it up and seal it with a suitable coloured paint.

 

[esn162]

Just an update on this, at last I've found a source for the valves that actually fit and do up properly and an added bonus is that I can get the caps on and off with ease as opposed the the cheap ebay ones fitted that were shorter meaning I needed thin nosed plyers just for the caps!
These are fat and fit so I don't foresee any leaking issues like I have been putting up with all summer, when I fit the winter tyres soon I'll know for sure.
View attachment 259878View attachment 259879
It's the one on the left that you need to get as you can see the thread for the bolt goes up my further than the one on the right, ebay and the web are littered with the right hand version and even thinner ones but these will not work properly.
Anyone need the link then just pm me as I don't think it's fair on site sponsor's if I put it in this thread.

Hi quattrogone, could you send me the link for the replacement dynamik valve posts please? I have this exact issue, losing tyre pressure over a period of time after wheels were re-finished and valves replaced for standard rubber post type however I now get corrosion around the valve stem under the power coat so need to get them done again and want to go back to the standard valve for the dynamik alloy as you have done, much appreciated.

 

[esn162]

Just an update on this, at last I've found a source for the valves that actually fit and do up properly and an added bonus is that I can get the caps on and off with ease as opposed the the cheap ebay ones fitted that were shorter meaning I needed thin nosed plyers just for the caps!
These are fat and fit so I don't foresee any leaking issues like I have been putting up with all summer, when I fit the winter tyres soon I'll know for sure.
View attachment 259878View attachment 259879
It's the one on the left that you need to get as you can see the thread for the bolt goes up my further than the one on the right, ebay and the web are littered with the right hand version and even thinner ones but these will not work properly.
Anyone need the link then just pm me as I don't think it's fair on site sponsor's if I put it in this thread.

Hi quattrogone, could you please send me the link to the valve above please? I have the same issue as you have mentioned. I had my dynamik alloys refurb'ed and the valves were replaced for standard rubber post type and I've noticed occasional lose of pressure and corrosion has started to blister up under the power coat around the valve seat of the alloy. I intend to get the alloys refurbed again but go back to the correct valve stem type as you have done above.

Have you had any further issues with pressure loss since fitting the above stems?

Thanks
esn162
@quattrogone

 

[rum4mo]

What I would always do in the future if I ever need to get wheels powder coated is, only supply the powder coater with wheels without tyres etc, then on collecting them examine and correct any coating defects in the area of the valve holes. As I mentioned earlier, I think that I have discovered why my powder coated wheels started leaking at the valves, ie the wheels are getting suspended when being coated and baked by something through the valve holes - and that means that there will always be an area at these valve holes which do not get coated and so start corroding quite quickly especially in winter. I just used a VW Group touch up pencil of the closest colour I could find to repair the single wheel that I got back as a spare - before I bought a tyre for it.

 

[quattrogone]

Turns out that when it came to fitting these properly the place struggled as there's a weird void between inner and outer lip on the valve hole! I reckon it could be done as they had been fitted previously, but tbh I'd lost the will to live with this situation so I told them to bang in the fattest normal rubber pull through valves and luckily this time they seemed to have sealed.
The plane is to get my summer set re-done in black and tell the blaster to be very gentle around the valve holes and the same with the painter, I'll then have a go at fitting the bolt in's that I bought before dropping them to the tyre monkey's!!