Brads A4 2.0 TQS build thread

I dont think i had it off before i found this and i dont think its ever been off in my ownership. Will have a look though but sure i couldnt see any where and ive not unscrewed it which is baffling me id off thought if it would of been there with engine running it would of fell off.
 
Spoke to owens development via email today on the subjects of turbo's heres what they said:-

Reply 1:-
The ODGT2868HTA-M with the T25/5-bolt turbine housing would be £1,346.77+VAT. The price is the same for the .64 and .86 A/R turbine housing options. The .86 A/R housing is almost never used though, we were curious as to what you have in mind for the turbo? We might have a different solution for you.

Reply 2:-
The turbo’s you’ve mentioned are exactly the ones I would have recommended, the only other thing worth considering would be using an external wastegate, though you’ve said you’re not changing manifold so that doesn’t seem possible.

The GTX2867R would be quite well suited, the downside being the compressor wheel is larger than the 68mm HTA (we disagree with Garrett on where you measure the compressor exducer) so you would lose a bit of spool relative to the HTA, but would have more power potential. The 68mm HTA wheel is rated to ~480hp so you still have some power in hand. To maximise the spool I would recommend the .64 A/R housing, it won’t choke your turbo and limit the power, but it will improve the spool a lot.
If you have any more questions let me know

Reply 3:-
The GTX2867R is £678.53+VAT, the housing is £136.78+VAT. That price doesn’t include an actuator or bracket, which will be ~£150. If you wanted the turbo in M-Spec (like the quote for the ODGT2868HTA) it will be an extra £276+VAT.
GTX2867R - £815.31+VAT (~£965+VAT including actuator/bracket)
GTX2867R-M - £1091.31+VAT (~£1,240+VAT including actuator/bracket)

M-spec turbos look tempting till you see the price lol
Ouch.
I paid ~£1200 for my standard 2867.

If your budget allows it though the HTA wheel and metal bearing cage is probably worth the extra expense, particularly the latter if pushing it hard. But otherwise the differences performance wise are very minimal, you wouldn't miss out on much. You cant lose really.
He is right about an external gate setup though, consider that, more worthwhile than going M-spec.
 
Ive been waying up going external gate and full frame manifold and im now thinking if im doing it i may aswell do it first time round.

If i do go this route would you stick to the same turbo being the 2867 or would you go 3071 ??

And @aragorn you were right will have a look later see if i can see whats what.
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The 67 wheel flows 45lb, so plenty enough air and no point going to the 71 wheel.

Wether the 30 frame helps i'm not sure, if the 28 can flow enough for your power target, it'll make a better end result.
 
Well some more stripping down today.

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Got all the internals out the block and cleaned up and also got the ABF crank ready to check oil clearances was just going to use some cheap bearings to check them then put Standard ACL race or the +0.0001 in when ready to assemble ??

Also a question does the little round insert for the oil pump drive gear (what is secured out of the block by the fork plate) is it spring loaded or hydraulic ??
 
I think if your going to check clearances, it needs done with the final bearings. Otherwise the alternative bearings could measure up differently. Dont **** around with oversize parts, stick to stock clearances.

dont think the drive gear cover is anything, its just a cover that sits where the dizzy went.
 
Im thinking the inner of the cover is pushed up by the oil pump shaft which runs through the drive gear. It just didnt feel right.

Ok il stick with stock shells then just read the +0.0001 are recommended in high HP engines for added lubrication.

So i take it i can check clearances on ACL shells and then reuse them then ??
 
yeh i think it might be slightly springy.

I cant say i'm an expert at engine building, but yes, you check the clearances, clean off the plastiguage and reassemble. I'm unsure how to clean the plastiguage off without damaging the shell though.

The one engine i tried it on, i actually just left the plastiguage on the shell. I'd built it up and it guaged up really weird, turned out i had recieved undersize bearings. I tried cleaning the pg off, and found that rubbing it scratched the shell. So when i got the correct size bearings, i checked the clearance, globbed it all in assembly lube and reassembled, leaving the plastiguage on the shell.

Engine didnt explode :p
 
Todays progress :-

Took more parts to work to do some cleaning getting stuff ready for paint, and this afternoon called in halfords to pick up paint ready for tomorrow.

Heres what i got done today will post up the finished result tomorrow.

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Also waiting on quote from powdercoaters to get subframes done (anyone manchester area who knows anybody in the powder coating trade who gets mates rates PM me lol)
 
More painting today and got a quote for the subframes to be shotblasted and powdercoated £60 for the front and rear.

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Got the block done after work not the best could of done with hot tanking but it will do maybe give it another coat tomorrow.

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Next job is to remove all the suspension, brakes, driveshafts, gearbox, prop and diff to get the subframes removed and shotblasted/powdercoated.
 
All looking good dude.

Just to add my two penneth, I would go for a T3 turbo anything less just isn't worth the expense or ball ache of building such a beast. If you want it to be properly quick you can't go conservative.

In too deep wasn't trying hard enough, mid 500's out out the 3076 when banzai, so 500 should be a breeze. I am however stuck with my 064

Thanks for that Mark, much appreciated. Believe me I tried very hard to maximise the potential of that build and definitely bettered the 426hp it dynoed at. I'd say it was easily 500hp once the ignition issues were corrected. Did you ever get yours to run right? Did you breeze 500hp? Last time i checked you were still trying to find someone capable to tune it! EDIT - Just skimmed your build thread, lol, I see your still trying to figure things out.

It doesnt say what grade the wiseco's or CP pistons are willhave to do some digging on the net, i no in2deep had je pistons which he had a 4.5 thou clearance from memory and his were noisey

I did run the JE's at 4.5 thou and they were noisy when cold, they weren't too bad when they warmed up and you were on it but I would possibly tighten up that clearance if I built another, don't think I would put the 4032s in personally but its your choice, your money. Race motors aren't built to idle.

Brad, Sorry if you have mentioned it I've only skimmed through the thread, what are you doing for tuning?
 
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I did run the JE's at 4.5 thou and they were noisy when cold, they weren't too bad when they warmed up and you were on it but I would possibly tighten up that clearance if I built another, don't think I would put the 4032s in personally but its your choice, your money. Race motors aren't built to idle.

Brad, Sorry if you have mentioned it I've only skimmed through the thread, what are you doing for tuning?

Im going to convert to ME7.5 and get it tuned by unicorn motor developments in stockport.
 
Its not a race motor is it... Its a street car. Street cars are about finding a balance, yes you could build it with a GT35 and make 600hp, but it'll be **** to drive to tesco with the kid in the back. Its already going to have more power than is any use on the street, so the aim of the build should be keeping the area under the curve as big as possible, and that means fitting the smallest turbo that will achieve what he wants.

The stock pistons will happily achieve the power figures he wants, but arent any use in a stroker. 4032 is going to be stronger than stock and can run OEM spec clearances for minimal noise and wear, and maximum longevity, so why go to the hassle of 2618's?
 
Yea heard and seen the destruction these can do never had any trouble withit on the stock motor but not risking it on the built motor.
 
Its not a race motor is it... Its a street car. Street cars are about finding a balance, yes you could build it with a GT35 and make 600hp, but it'll be **** to drive to tesco with the kid in the back. Its already going to have more power than is any use on the street, so the aim of the build should be keeping the area under the curve as big as possible, and that means fitting the smallest turbo that will achieve what he wants.

The stock pistons will happily achieve the power figures he wants, but arent any use in a stroker. 4032 is going to be stronger than stock and can run OEM spec clearances for minimal noise and wear, and maximum longevity, so why go to the hassle of 2618's?

Wow brad you said that without moving your lips. Its your build mate, your car, your money, make your own decisions and don't be led by those who've never been there and done it. I'm not going to enter into this discussion any further, you asked a question and I gave my opinion based on my experiences, it appears my opinion isn't the right one. Oh and a 600hp GT35 build wouldn't be **** to drive, im guessing the font of all knowledge hasn't owned one either and has based his opinion on nothing, again. M3's, M5's, Evo's don't come alive till there up the rev range either and they are magnificent to drive! My A4 TQS build was possibly one of the biggest grins I've had behind the wheel of car. Build it the way you want mucker ;-)
 
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Not done much on the build just sorting niggles and things out and packing/labelling bolts up for there location so i no where they all go when i put it all together.

Been back out with the paint doing a few bits and pieces, and i mocked it up in my garage for a well needed kick up the back side to get things moving again, think a few days holiday are due to get some much needed work done lol

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Painted Manifold incase i dont go aftermarket, Rocker covers being redone to match the other red bits as it wasnt the best finish.
 
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What turbo you running again Brad?

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Well got the carpet out yesterday got it to work and gave it a good clean and left it outside on a ladder to dry, then today i set about dying the carpet just used some autosmart dye that the valeters had at work and all i can say is im pretty pleased with the outcome it probably would of benefited from a new one but can only imagine the price from dealer on one.

Anyhow heres a before and after pic and after dying pic :-

Before (the white stains are cleaning agent)
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After cleaning/drying
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After dying (note the left side was done sometime before the right side hence the difference in colour, i may give it another coat but will see)
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Well not much done on this , but im hopefully getting a new daily instead off the polo as its just not me and ive bashed the sump in on a speed bump so will be going up for sale once ive recieved the sump off ebay.

So i may be picking this up on wednesday as its 5 mins walk from my house its an A4 B6 1.8T sport cab with 104k on the clock just need to have a once over it and look at what history its got but its a bargain at 2k. Thinking of putting the boleros on it instead of these 5 spokes lol

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Well here she is and its a clean car with the odd few scrapes on the bodywork and the engine sounds/goes nicely, and the interior is somewhat immaculate with the odd wear too some buttons but its definately a bargain..

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Started porting the ATP manifold yesterday and today got one port pretty much done on to another one tomorrow.

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Yeah im not really porting it massively as there is no real gains its just to remove the imperfections and smooth/polish it to aid the flow but yeah its a pita to get right in there and it makes a right mess and gets everywhere.
 
Well there will be a few updates in here this week as ive booked a week off work as im 28 on thursday so not better way to spend my week off/birthday then doing bits to the beast.

Today i set about getting the rear end stripped down to get the subframe off ready for when i get the front one off and other bits to get them powdercoated. Got all the suspension off just gotta get the diff, prop and gearbox off tomorrow then drop the rear subframe then i will set about tackling the front suspension/subframe.

Took a few pics along the way.

Got it up on axle stands safely on my not so flat drive.
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Then got the big *** miltek out the way
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Got the n/s stripped down
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Then moved over to the o/s and repeated the process
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Thats left me here ready to go at it again tomorrow
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Well cracked on again today got the prop, diff, rear subframe off and then disconnected front driveshafts and selector lever in car and pulled the gearbox out need go machinemart and get 2 more axle stands to crack on with getting the front end stripped.

Some pics

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More painting parts today at the make shift spray booth lol, need get some more cans from halfords as need some more for 2 other bits, hopefully they have some stock left as they have discontinued the paint and you cant order it from them no more. Hopefully they do as i love the speckle effect the paint has i will get some better pics tomorrow after last coat of laquer.
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Got them finished up this morning happy with the outcome also got the manifold pretty much boxed off just need to get the cam cover, diff carrier, diff and gearbox done then im done painting parts i think lol

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Worst part was removing hammerite from tha cam cover i soaked it in thinners for a week, tried nitromorse in the end i used a heat gun and scrapper and a pick. Tip dont use brush on hammerite on a cam cover if you think your going to paint it again, got it to this stage this morning after doing bits here and there through the week.

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Got the gearbox and rear diff cleaned off and then sprayed them in hammerite smooth black just to tidy the appearance up a little not like they will be seen very much but least there looking good. :p

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