So you keep saying. . .
Must be true then if it was written on an online forum
Dust is a fact of life from any form of abrasive action. If it wasn't pads wouldn't wear down, and would never need replacing. They also would not work very well.
Exactly !
All I hear is “Redstuff produce little dust”
Goes hand in hand with the fact they don’t stop cars very well.
Good disc polishers though should you need a shave.
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Probably just standard discs been bedded in with Redstuff
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Lol can you imagine Brembo calling up EBC
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If you apply that then that means Ferodo Eco Friction and DS Performance are no good...
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Minority reporting .
Majority has it !
Do a poll if you think you're right .
It's 2021 and you can have it all , near future legislation will see low dust brake pads as the norm .
So you agree low dust Ferodo Eco Friction and Ferodo DS Performance stop cars well ?
Im getting my rear pads and discs done next weekend. Can you please kindly advice me on a few things.I changed my rear discs and pads a month or so ago. I used Mintex coated discs and Mintex pads. The pads a came with new calliper bolts and shims. I think I paid around £75 for them.
Im getting my rear pads and discs done next weekend. Can you please kindly advice me on a few things.
I will be using Carista to put the EPB in service mode. I have read the rear brake calipers require a M14 bit to remove a bolt in order to get the discs off, is that correct? Also are the old Caliper bolts a one time use and will definitely require changing during the job? I got my discs and pads from TPS but had no idea about the caliper bolts and shims, please advice? Thank you.
So the bolts that you recconmend to change are the ones that require the tripple square bit? The one in the attached photo?Not trying to be funny but if you are unsure how to change brakes you really shouldn’t be doing them. It’s the number 1 safety system.
Anyway You got the bolts that hold calipers these normally come with most kits I’ve used so I change them to new ones but it should be ok to reuse if you don’t get them.
The carriers normally have to come off, not sure about bolt size, for the disc to come out but folk on here have managed to wiggle out old discs and wiggle new ones back in without removing the carrier so just luck.
Shims is just like a thin metal foil on the back of pads to reduce squealing and noise, these should normally be stuck to the pads out the box some manufacturers don’t include them and sell them separately.
You will need copper grease or similar to put on the edges/contact points of pads guides etc don’t overdo the greasing as the **** gets everywhere.
You will need brake cleaner to clean the oil off the discs and generally clean everything up before you put it back together. Wire brush will help cleaning the carriers etc.
All bolts, screws etc will be a pain to remove as it’s in an area where it get hot and cold so lots of corrosion. Personally I would change the bolts as it’s easy to round off the head of a rusty one, just saving yourself the grief next time you do this.
Not sure about Carista but in vcds there’s a procedure to run for the calipers to recalibrate for new discs and pads. Again some folk get away without doing this.
So the bolts that you recconmend to change are the ones that require the tripple square bit? The one in the attached photo?
Thanks for the advice. Any idea where i can get these 14mm tripple spuaret bolts from? Just incase they get rounded off when removing.the bolts pictured are 14mm triple square that hold the brake carrier the others that are capped are allen key 7mm if I remember rightly. the triple squares are stretch bolts that are tightened to 120 Nm plus 90 degrees hence the pain to remove , according to Audi they should be replaced but plenty don't.
Thanks for the advice. Any idea where i can get these 14mm tripple spuaret bolts from? Just incase they get rounded off when removing.
Thank you for the diagram. Just to confirm number 8 (in the red circle) on the diagram, is the part that I require in the attached photo? also in the remark section it shows M12 in the number. Is that referring to the spliner size bit required to remove the bolt? sorry just getting a little confused as everyone is suggesting that its a M14 size spliner bit is required to remove it.Forum sponsor on here @creweaudi
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Thank you for the diagram. Just to confirm number 8 (in the red circle) on the diagram, is the part that I require in the attached photo? also in the remark section it shows M12 in the number. Is that referring to the spliner size bit required to remove the bolt? sorry just getting a little confused as everyone is suggesting that its a M14 size spliner bit is required to remove it.
Thank you so much, that has cleared the confusionM12 is the distance across the threads.
M14 I’d the spline bit size on the head.
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One last question in order to change the rear brake discs, do you must need the Brake Piston wind back tool? Or is that only required if you dont have any vcds/obd tool to put the brakes in service mode?M12 is the distance across the threads.
M14 I’d the spline bit size on the head.
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One last question in order to change the rear brake discs, do you must need the Brake Piston wind back tool? Or is that only required if you dont have any vcds/obd tool to put the brakes in service mode?
You need a 14mm splined bit to remove the caliper carrier bolts. They are awkward to get to - I removed my lower shock bolts to enable me to get a 1/2” ratchet on there with a deep socket over the handle and a couple of 6” extension bars. I managed to wiggle my discs out without loosening them but I couldn’t wiggle the new ones in. I reused my bolts. Brake pad shims came with the padsIm getting my rear pads and discs done next weekend. Can you please kindly advice me on a few things.
I will be using Carista to put the EPB in service mode. I have read the rear brake calipers require a M14 bit to remove a bolt in order to get the discs off, is that correct? Also are the old Caliper bolts a one time use and will definitely require changing during the job? I got my discs and pads from TPS but had no idea about the caliper bolts and shims, please advice? Thank you.
Thank you for the tips. I dont think i got the shims with my pads, even though supplied by TPS. Can you use the old shims? Thanks.You need a 14mm splined bit to remove the caliper carrier bolts. They are awkward to get to - I removed my lower shock bolts to enable me to get a 1/2” ratchet on there with a deep socket over the handle and a couple of 6” extension bars. I managed to wiggle my discs out without loosening them but I couldn’t wiggle the new ones in. I reused my bolts. Brake pad shims came with the pads
Thank you for the tips. I dont think i got the shims with my pads, even though supplied by TPS. Can you use the old shims? Thanks.
just got round to replacing mine as I had heard so much conflicting information about whether the rear carriers had to come off or not and was dreading it . but as mentioned the old disc slips out and the new one went in just as easy, probably took me an hour total both sides on my driveSteve is correct here. I can get the 310 x 22 rear disc out without removing the rear caliper carrier.
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just got round to replacing mine as I had heard so much conflicting information about whether the rear carriers had to come off or not and was dreading it . but as mentioned the old disc slips out and the new one went in just as easy, probably took me an hour total both sides on my drive
Surely you would have to change the dust guards as they overlap the edge of the disc and yours look standard
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