Brake pad + disc replacement - bolt torques

cemerson

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Hi all

I need to replace the brake pads and discs on my 2017 A3 (facelift, specs in signature). I have all the parts ready to go but was wondering if someone with the workshop manual could either post up the relevant diagrams, or let me know the required torque settings for the various bolts? Specifically the wheel nuts (I believe they are 100Nm but if someone could verify that'd be great), the 2 bolts that hold the calliper to the bracket, and the T30 Torx bolt that postitions the rotor on the hub (if memory serves this should be 4Nm but I'm not entirely sure).

I'm hoping not to have to remove the calliper / brake pad mounting bracket in order to slide the rotor in and out, but if I do have to, the torque requirements for those bolts would be good too.

I'm doing the fronts + rears, and have the necessary kit to put the rear brakes into service mode for the electronic handbrake.
 
Hi all

I need to replace the brake pads and discs on my 2017 A3 (facelift, specs in signature). I have all the parts ready to go but was wondering if someone with the workshop manual could either post up the relevant diagrams, or let me know the required torque settings for the various bolts? Specifically the wheel nuts (I believe they are 100Nm but if someone could verify that'd be great), the 2 bolts that hold the calliper to the bracket, and the T30 Torx bolt that postitions the rotor on the hub (if memory serves this should be 4Nm but I'm not entirely sure).

I'm hoping not to have to remove the calliper / brake pad mounting bracket in order to slide the rotor in and out, but if I do have to, the torque requirements for those bolts would be good too.

I'm doing the fronts + rears, and have the necessary kit to put the rear brakes into service mode for the electronic handbrake.
Workshop manual or diagrams? :D There is no such thing. Firstly u need to know if you CAN do it and HOW..
Only walkthrough I can suggest is YT I learned lots of things from there :) Forget some torque u don't need it just tighten it but not overtighten
I did it with just simple ordinary set of tools ..all perfect .. I have even replaced bearings..
 
There are workshop manuals and diagrams. I have them for the pre-FL car which I did the same job on (though fronts only), and they tell you the required torques for everything.

Too late now anyway, I found some torque values but I'm not certain they aren't for the pre FL car. I've done the job now.
 
There are workshop manuals and diagrams. I have them for the pre-FL car which I did the same job on (though fronts only), and they tell you the required torques for everything.

Too late now anyway, I found some torque values but I'm not certain they aren't for the pre FL car. I've done the job now.
You absolutely don't need some torque values for replacing ordinary brake discs n pads that is like every day job in garage.. U think they gonna use it every time please u only need torque values if u for example opening engine or critical parts of the car where are pipes.. Not two screws on calipers.. In garages they just take their heavy drill screw driver and unscrew wheels, calipers replace discs n pads put wheels back on.. And onto the next one
 
When you come to do yours, you decide whether you need the torque values or not. I was just asking if anyone knew them so I could follow them to spec for myself. I'm not sure why you would need to tell me not to do that. My car, my decision.
 
When you come to do yours, you decide whether you need the torque values or not. I was just asking if anyone knew them so I could follow them to spec for myself. I'm not sure why you would need to tell me not to do that. My car, my decision.
not telling you to DON'T DO IT !!! I told you u don't need to do torques on simple brake disc /pads change for two basic screws and nuts
 
Brake disc carrier bolts are 200nm, and the brake discs calliper are 35nm from memory. The little hex bolt which holds the disc to the hub doesn’t matter as it just hold the disc till the wheels are back on.

AND YES, you do need to torque the bolts down to the correct value. Last thing you want is your brakes calliper coming off whilst driving.
 
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Wheel bolts are usually 120nm btw.
 
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Yes, I found similar values myself, but was from the pre FL version I think. Thanks for the confirmation!

Weirdly the values I found for the torx bolt for the disc were 8Nm for the fronts and 12Nm for the rears!
 
It's bizzare just how different the two are as well - the carrier unit for the front is held in with 21mm hex head bolts, and the rear carrier is held in with a torx head bolt of some kind. Strange how they use different heads. Some vague attempt to stop people messing with the rear brakes because of the parking brake stuff you have to do perhaps? Luckily had access to the right wrench bit.