Brake pad warning light

gforrow

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Following on from my previous thread about changing the front pads on the A4, all went well.

However, after a couple of weeks, the warning light is back on :(

So today, took the passenger side all apart again, checked the brakes, all good. Checked for continuity through the pad, again, all good. What else is there? Is there a fuse on the circuit?

I also cleaned the connector, although why that should work ok for a few weeks, then pack up again, not sure.

Any other pointers? Any other connectors I should look for. Is it time for a trip to the dealer, it's under extended warranty, which, whilst it won't cover the brakes, hence why I did them, it should cover electricals.

Thanks
 
The brake pad warning is a pretty basic system. Given yours a relatively new car, then you shouldn't have to worry about corrosion. If seen issues with the connector itself and the wiring. Give it another look. Pull it apart and look at the blades in the connector terminal that they are sitting straight. Give a squirt of electrical contact cleaner, shake dry then connect up so you hear it close properly.

If you have access to VCDS that may provide more attention, otherwise go back to the main dealer.
 
The brake pad warning is a pretty basic system. Given yours a relatively new car, then you shouldn't have to worry about corrosion. If seen issues with the connector itself and the wiring. Give it another look. Pull it apart and look at the blades in the connector terminal that they are sitting straight. Give a squirt of electrical contact cleaner, shake dry then connect up so you hear it close properly.

If you have access to VCDS that may provide more attention, otherwise go back to the main dealer.
Cheers,

Yes, Had it all apart, checked the contacts. Checked the pad with a meter, got continuity through there. WD40 in the connector as well, solid connection. Seems odd that it worked ok for a few weeks, then crapped out again.

As you suggest, back to get it looked at by the dealer, I don't have access to VCDS.
 
Cheers,

Yes, Had it all apart, checked the contacts. Checked the pad with a meter, got continuity through there. WD40 in the connector as well, solid connection. Seems odd that it worked ok for a few weeks, then crapped out again.

As you suggest, back to get it looked at by the dealer, I don't have access to VCDS.
That sounds like it may be a loom issue then with a intermittent fault further up the wiring. Only way to test is continuity, but because that can even throw you a false reading - suspect they'll just replace the loom. Audi main dealer motto 'if in doubt - replace it'!
 
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Quick update on this one. It’s the rear pads. I didn’t think the rears had a wear detector, but apparently it does, hence the light coming back on.

As I can’t do the rears myself due to the handbrake and needing software, garage is doing it.
 
Quick update on this one. It’s the rear pads. I didn’t think the rears had a wear detector, but apparently it does, hence the light coming back on.

As I can’t do the rears myself due to the handbrake and needing software, garage is doing it.
When my rears had worn too much I got a "Brake Fault - Contact a workshop" message; when the fronts went the message did at least tell me it was the front pads.
 
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Quick update on this one. It’s the rear pads. I didn’t think the rears had a wear detector, but apparently it does, hence the light coming back on.

As I can’t do the rears myself due to the handbrake and needing software, garage is doing it.

Mystery solved. Have your brake fluid changed. I do mine yearly and pedal feel is always better after. I now use red stuff pads from EBC. Best decision. Stops better and last much longer than oem with less dust.
 
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Mystery solved. Have your brake fluid changed. I do mine yearly and pedal feel is always better after. I now use red stuff pads from EBC. Best decision. Stops better and last much longer than oem with less dust.
Fluid was changed in January, so all good on that front. Yes mystery solved, thankfully
 
Sorry to hijack, I need my brake fluid changing - but main dealer costs seem to be extortionate, is it an easy enough job for my local indy to do?
 

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