Broken Avant BRD

Fully

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Ok
Yesterday you might have seen that I posted in the 'What have you done today' thread that i'd broken my car (not intentionally).
Basically, i went to accelerate and the car failed to provide power.
I pulled over and it sounded like crap and like i had no exhaust. Had a quick look underneath and under the bonnet, but the light was fading and couldn't see any glaring problem.
The EML didn't come on but I diagnosed it anyway and came up with P0299, which relates to Turbo.
I laboured the car back home and ditched it in the drive.
I've had a look under the bonnet again this afternoon with the engine running and i could feel a blowing to the left of the engine near the EGR cooler.

R3c6AEC.jpg


Had a good look around the EGR Cooler area and noticed this (hard to get the angle with a camera).

rtUIbB5.jpg


The pipe has snapped away from the flange at this point.

XWb5yhy.png


Anyone got any experience replacing an EGR Cooler, if so how hard is it and is there anything i should look out for?
 
It's not something i've had to deal with personally but a few other guys have so I expect they will be able to advise you more.
From memory, I don't think it's that difficult just a bit fiddly, some have tried to reweld the flange back on with limited success only for it to break again later on, so probably best to get a new one or very good used item.
I expect more in-depth help will be along shortly.
Best of luck with it.
 
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Ok
Yesterday you might have seen that I posted in the 'What have you done today' thread that i'd broken my car (not intentionally).
Basically, i went to accelerate and the car failed to provide power.
I pulled over and it sounded like crap and like i had no exhaust. Had a quick look underneath and under the bonnet, but the light was fading and couldn't see any glaring problem.
The EML didn't come on but I diagnosed it anyway and came up with P0299, which relates to Turbo.
I laboured the car back home and ditched it in the drive.
I've had a look under the bonnet again this afternoon with the engine running and i could feel a blowing to the left of the engine near the EGR cooler.

R3c6AEC.jpg


Had a good look around the EGR Cooler area and noticed this (hard to get the angle with a camera).

rtUIbB5.jpg


The pipe has snapped away from the flange at this point.

XWb5yhy.png


Anyone got any experience replacing an EGR Cooler, if so how hard is it and is there anything i should look out for?

Not to bad to access ,1 really awkward bolt at the back of engine ,get the air box and pipe work out first
Egr delete and remap would be cheapest option


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Not to bad to access ,1 really awkward bolt at the back of engine ,get the air box and pipe work out first
Egr delete and remap would be cheapest option


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If your replacing the cooler the awkward bolt won’t be an issue ,that bolt holds the pipe work that you’ll be keeping in place


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Not to bad to access ,1 really awkward bolt at the back of engine ,get the air box and pipe work out first
Egr delete and remap would be cheapest option


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yeah I've seen a new EGR Cooler on Buycarparts, Autodoc & Onlinecarparts for £151.
The delete and remap would cost more than that i'm thinking, don't you also need some sort of DPF solution if you're removing the EGR?
 
yeah I've seen a new EGR Cooler on Buycarparts, Autodoc & Onlinecarparts for £151.
The delete and remap would cost more than that i'm thinking, don't you also need some sort of DPF solution if you're removing the EGR?

Couple of blanking plates a few quid ,remap only necessary if u can live with eml light
Sorry Forgot about dpf..that would need gutting


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Couple of blanking plates a few quid ,remap only necessary if u can live with eml light
Sorry Forgot about dpf..that would need gutting


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light i can ignore till MOT time anyway.
Guting a DPF is outside my skillset i reckon ha
 
light i can ignore till MOT time anyway.
Guting a DPF is outside my skillset i reckon ha

In that case and to answer the original question.
Quite simple once you have made access having removed air box


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Thanks for the prompt replies chaps, good stuff :thumbs up:
I think from an ease of replacement and time factor and cost , replacing with a new or good used unit would be the best option for a speedy repair.
 
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yeah I've seen a new EGR Cooler on Buycarparts, Autodoc & Onlinecarparts for £151.
The delete and remap would cost more than that i'm thinking, don't you also need some sort of DPF solution if you're removing the EGR?

Auto docs delivery is at least 2-3 weeks ,Rob may add a few months on that estimate


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If you are going for a replacement, look at UK based sources first , anything from European factors may take longer than you expect.
 
where do you recommend buying from then, as i think the 3 i listed seem to be linked
bit strange that they all have exact discount on the same item
 
there are a few factors in germany etc that say they are UK but are not and are all the same company just different website names.
 
As much as i dislike ECP, their sister company carpart4less have been much more reliable and have more parts, still not as cheap as other European sources but at least you are not tied to unknown delivery dates .
 
Double check but I think 03G131512AL
Jb heat resistant paste might be worth a look short term if it’s your daily


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yeah i looked on eBay, but always get nervous about buying parts coz of the possible quality or lack of
 
That said, these coolers are not really that complicated, pretty basic pieces of equipment really, depends really on how long you want the car off the road.
 
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Was gonna say ,apart from the actuator there’s no moving parts


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these things are what they are, and for the money, you can't really go too far wrong.
I've looked back at my eBay purchases and I had some parts back in May for my TT from them, no probs thus far.
 
yeah, i'll bite the bullet,
like i said they've got canny feedback and delivery is quick
 
It has 12month warranty so maybe worth a go, and if it doesn't fit then its there problem just return it.
 
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It's never goint to be OE quality but then its only a fraction of OE price, but that doesn't mean it's no good, probably just as good for the purpose required.
 
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Once had issues with my old brd asv/inlet manifold throwing up eml occasionally,oil was leaking into the electrical components which were underneath the flaps pivot point (could of been designed better)was looking at £100+ for an after market version ,took a punt on ebay for 25£ for one off an a3 bkd ,all the electrical components were completely sealed off ,worked perfectly
Which begs the question why was it redesigned


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Once had issues with my old brd asv/inlet manifold throwing up eml occasionally,oil was leaking into the electrical components which were underneath the flaps pivot point (could of been designed better)was looking at £100+ for an after market version ,took a punt on ebay for 25£ for one off an a3 bkd ,all the electrical components were completely sealed off ,worked perfectly
Which begs the question why was it redesigned


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Think[mention]Pie-eyedpiper [/mention] had a similar issue


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I should have read your posts sooner.
I have s fully functioning EGR valve and cooler for sale if it's not too late for you.

It is as I ordered on Sunday.
Need car to make extra cash.
Cheers though


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Once had issues with my old brd asv/inlet manifold throwing up eml occasionally,oil was leaking into the electrical components which were underneath the flaps pivot point (could of been designed better)was looking at £100+ for an after market version ,took a punt on ebay for 25£ for one off an a3 bkd ,all the electrical components were completely sealed off ,worked perfectly
Which begs the question why was it redesigned


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Yes, just changed my ASV (intake manifold flap) last weekend.
My old motor was full of oil and a couple of teeth missing off the gears.
I got a second hand one of eBay for £30, no more EML.
 
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Received the new EGR Cooler today.
I removed the airbox and cold air feed, along with a bit of pondering on how best to get the bolts out of the cooler end nearest the bulkhead, i eventually got it out with patience and small movements.

lmot0m2.jpg


As you can see, the old one was ****** and made the car sound like a tractor in hyperdrive (2 arrowed parts should be connected :wtf:).

kvgJUrm.jpg


Got the new cooler fitted, and it was easier than i thought it was going to be.

rxP6Ozz.jpg


Then got everything else back into place.

BItFGQ7.jpg


All back together i turned her over and she started well, but still had the underboost fault so reset that and all was good :yahoo:.
Cheers to everyone for their input :icon thumright:.
 
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Glad it's all sort chap, it is allways nice to get a problem solved without too much extra hassle, good work indeedy. :yes: :thumbs up: