Chi's Audi TT 225 LY7W/5B Forge Tip 30/6

[chisharpe]

So I have been looking for a sorted TT for about 3 months now my previous car a 530d unfortunately was hit from behind and written off. I bought it back with full intention of getting it back on the road but after looking at the figures it was more sensible just to move on.

So after seeing a bunch of sheds and people who want massive money for a car that still needs work I found this one. its a 2002 BAM engine in Light Silver Metallic Clearcoat LY7W/5B Its got Full Audi SH up to the last service which was done by the mechanic i bought the cars off company. pretty sure he did it but i have recipts to prove the parts and a stamp in the book so im happy.

In the last 12 months the car has had:

Top mounts
Lowering springs all round
2 struts
Both O2 sensors
Thermostat and Sensor & dipstick :lol:
Both window switches
Disks lathed and withing tolerances and new pads on the front
new bulbs all round
diff & gearbox oil changed
spark plugs filters ect
bunch of pipes replaced to cure an eml light.
Refurbished alloys
Rear ARBs

The guy i bought it off is a mechanic and obvioulsy was a bit of a labour of love but he was a big lad and he said he just needed a bigger car as he couldnt fit his family in anymore which i understand as im 6ft and theres not alot of room in the back with the seat in my position but i have young kids and wifes got a big car so not so much of a problem.

With that said any car you buy is always gonna have a few niggles and these are mine.

Mechanicals:
Cambelt needs changing car has done 48k since it was last changed but its been over 5 years so this is my number one. luckily I have a well known indy near me called JKM in portsmouth so this will be done end of the month.
Clutch Pedal Switch replacement
Haldex Oil & Filter
Oil & Filter and look at dropping the sump and doing the pickup.
Fuel Filter
CV Boost Passenger Side
Window switch inside replacement so passenger window drops
Change all the breather hoses and any left that have not already been replaced recently
Wheel Locking nuts as it didnt come with any
Health check @ JKM to make sure theres nothing ive missed

Inside
Climate control Switch cover
Stereo worn so replace with sticker set
Cd player skips on bumps looks like bracket is loose so sort that
rear passenger pillar has a small hole replace
Parcel Shelf
Remove seats and Vac Everywhere
Clean leather and treat drivers seat bolster for wear
New mats
remove old five oaks sticker rear windscreen
Detail Clean Inside
Fit arm rest

Outside
Front bumper laquer peel at top (smart repair)
Drivers door ding (dent man)
Rear passenger arch light scratches (wetsand and buff)
Clay bar clean and machine polish
Remove wheels and clean inside arch and suspension components
Clean engine bay

Lots to do but once these are all sorted

Mods:
Front seat splitter Painted gloss metal black
Front grill Painted Gloss metalic Black
Install USB Charging and Bluetooth unit
performance front and rear brake pads braided lines
Remap. (id like to see if i can get a switch box so i can run standard and modded)
Pollybush the car

Daydream wishlist:
TTS front Bumper
Blistein Shocks all round with New Springs
Clutch & Flywheel replacement
Posche Boxter Calipers Or Seat Leon calipers and disks

 

[chisharpe]

So after my road trip yesterday I decided to have a go at coding a few bits for the car as I've got Vagcom because the wife used to own a beetle.

So currently my car had none of the coded central locking options and also the dashpod needs were not alluminated all the time. this is something i really like as when you drive in a tunnel ect or as its getting dusk it helps.

So I wanted all the central locking options.


1. Windows open/close - The comfort feature allowing windows to be opened or closed by holding the lock/unlock on the key fob.
2. Autolock - The car will lock when you reach 15km/h and unlock when you pull the key from the ignition
3. Alarm confirmation beep - a very subtle beep when the alarm is correctly armed
4. Double press unlock - the drivers door only will unlock on the first press of the remote, 2nd press will unlock both doors.

To do this if you have vcds you:

Select control module
Module 35 Central Locking
Right hand side of the screen that comes up Recode 07
Then someone has handily made a little bit of decode software which can be found here http://www.wak-tt.com/vagcom/vagcomclcoding.htm credit to whoever did it.
Then put your number in software coding leave the workshop code and then press do it.
turn the ignition off and test.

It took me a couple of tries but i now have always illuminated needles. Alarm beep double press unlock Autolock and comfort windows

Nice and simple and didnt cost me anything.

While I was at it I read the codes again & nothing so very happy

Chi.

 

[chisharpe]

Took a trip to Audi today because although I had the service book I had no idea what had been done to the car.

Suffice to say the owner didn't scrimp and used Audi all the way through

 

[chisharpe]

So my current car seat doesn't fit in the TT & my mrs is not happy with the current purchase. So after a bit of searching on here it looks like most people have said the Britax Duo ISO Fix is the seat to go with as it first well. As luck would have it someone close to me was selling one so I jumped in the car thismonrning and grabbed it. Removed the covers gave it a quick wash and it was good to go.

After having a look through the manual it said only cars from 03 had the ISO fix and I didn't have any cut outs in my seats so I thoroughlt it would be belt only. So I googled if you could retrofit these and it said the a lot of U.K. Based card from 2000 had this fitted as standard so I had a look at what a ISO fix bracket looks like and boom I have them. So I fitted it all up properly today and gave it a test. My daughter is behind me in a booster and my youngest is behind the passenger as there is more room.



All in and as safe as I can make it



Really pleased with how secure the isofix feels.

 

[chisharpe]

Hi guys so i asked on here and hoggy kindly told me how to do this. but there didnt seem to be a write up about it so I thought i would do a really short one for anyone looking to do this in the future.

The symptom I was seeing my Revs increase when I pressed the clutch in when driving the car on hard boost. This can be linked to many things including leaks but for me it was this and a few other people. so ive you have recently had a clutch pedal failure or you have had the clutch changed or are just experiencing what I said it would be a good idea to replace this.

However If anyone on here has VCDS and has this problem you can check if the switch is working correctly by going

Engine Controller 01
Measuring Blocks 08
In Group Type 066
Go

When the Clutch is Depressed it will show as 100 when not it will show as 000 if its doing this then you know its working.

Ok so lets start off, we cant get to the switch because there is a panel in the way luckily this is a 5 minute job getting this off.

First.

Unscrew the 3 Torx Screws I have marked in red

Next

Remove the fuse box panel and remove these 4 Torx screws

Next

Now we can remove the lower panel. this will come away with a tug. it is held on by clips now so a bit of force and it will come away.

You will need to remove the head light height adjuster cable the lights cable and the OBD port cable then you can remove the bottom panel from the car. you will now have access to the switch.

Next

Remove the electrical cable from the clutch pedal switch by pushing in the clips and pulling away from the switch. after that all you need to do is rotate the switch 90 degrees anti clockwise and pull the switch towards you and it should come out fine.

Please note do not depress the new switch plunger as it will not spring back and you will need a new switch.

Now just replace the Switch in the reverse way you put it back in and refit the rest and your done.

Take your car for a test drive and check everything's working.

Chi

 

[chisharpe]

So the radio has been bugging me since I got it so I managed to grab a radio on eBay cheap with better buttons than mine. So I set about today to fix it. I masked up and sprayed two of the bottoms which were gone as then fixed the others slightly and changed all the buttons over. It's not perfect now but its a lot better than it was. And it cost me £7







Excuse the missing climate control button I'm currently praying I find a cheap unit the nobs on as £23 at the stealers is a joke for a bit of plastic

 

[chisharpe]

So while going over these hoses on the car I've found a split from the tip to the hockey puck so i looked into Audi and they wanted £180 badger 5 was £150 creations £110 eBay special £45 or a second hand one was £25 but likely that would split again. In the end luckily enough a forge tip came up on eBay and nabbed it for £50.



Not the colour I wanted but much cheaper than slot of the alternatives.

While I was at it I've decided to replace my whole pcv with silicone and do the hard pipe repair kit. Now I've ordered a bunch of bits and silicone to replace this but all the silicone stuff if coming from China and I have next week off so I've decided to remove the pcv for now and vent down the engine with some filters like I know a few on here do. For me it will be short term as I want a fully working pcv but it's gonna take 6-8 weeks for me to get the parts I want. Also I'm gonna send some hoses off the pcv to be made as it's a lot cheaper than the forge or creations counterparts and with the pcv bits off I can send them all off to be remade.

So I've ordered
2m 19mm hose
2 mini oil breather filters
13mm silicone hose .5m
Bunch of jubilee clips
19mm billet bung.

I will get some pictures up once I've deleted it all.

As for the car I'm yet to decide on a grill I want but I didn't like he Quattro badge or chrome badge so whipped it off and scored it up with some wet and dry and gave it 4 coats of satin black. Much better imo but I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go honeycomb front grill with chrome rings but we will see

 

[chisharpe]

So I finally got round to fitting my TIP today. bought myself a decent set of side cutters and it made the job easy. took about an hour and half all in all with me taking my time and working out where everything went and then having to go get some new jubilee clips.

The tip came out pretty well I removed the airbox first for more access. undid the jubilee on the turbo then undid the DV then the Hockey puck and last was this pipe thing that i dont know what does :lol:









what do you think of my tip :lol:

ive checked it all over and this was the only place its split the rest is in pretty good condition. surprising for the mileage and it still had the single use hose clips so i dont think its been changed in its life.



you may have noticed the orange on the plastic pipe going to my hockey puck. thats silicone fusing tape as its got a crack in it (i've ordered another one) but it will hold for now.



all fitted wanna get a new jubilee clip for the air box. does anyone know the correct size?

Also I managed to get a new Cambelt fitted. While it was in the garage i decided to go along and have a look. i also wanted to see the state the belt was in as it was last recorded to be done at 78k and its done 60k since then (thank god i didnt think i could do this on my drive what a nightmare job it looks like. not for the hobby mechanic unless you have lots of time) he said the belt looked ok but was sensible to change it. also while i was there i saw the serpentine belt which didnt look great so i jumped over to GSF and grabbed one for them to replace my old one with.













So a few £££ spent this month but i bought the car cheap knowing these bits would need doing. gonna change the oil and the this week and then hope my pvc pipework turns up so i can renew the whole of the pcv system.