Help Please Clunk from front drivers side wheel area.

[NickAM]

Hi, I just wondered if I could share this and see if anyone can offer anything Ive not thought of.

I have an Audi A4 B8.5 SLine and it has recently got a new noise. Its a metal on metal clunk when the front brakes are applied or you are cornering. I thought it was the pads that had been fitted dry and seem to be moving. You could see 2/3mm of play which could account for the noise as they hit the caliper body. But I took the car back to where I got it and they replaced the pads with new Audi/Vw and this time geased it all up. This was an Audi Tech so I'd assume he did it correctly. But the noise is still present.

Ive inspected the many suspension arms and there are no visable tears or perishing to any bushes. Ive done a bolt torque check on the arms and top of the shock. The only thing that looks a little dubious (that I can see with my untrained eye) is the drive shaft may be a little free'er on the side with the noise. If i grab the shaft with the car jacked up, it will move in and out as Id expect. Its like this both sides but prepaphs the drivers side is fractionally freeer. I'm assured by Audi these shafts are never really an issue. Its the same shaft in the S4 & RS4 im told, so it should be tough enough.

Any thoughts on what to check next?
Thank for any help
Nick

 

[KSigota]

Try checking the stretch bolts on the subframe. I've commonly seen when stretch bolts are reused they seem to allow just enough play to clunk under pressure. Doubt these were removed when doing pads, so ic oils be just a coincidence. I don't remember the torque values to use on reused bolts... I almost always replace them.

Also check your motor mounts. Two bolts going into the mount from the frame, one bolt going into the engine from the mount, and two bolts on the shield covering the mount (seriously doubt the shield would clunk... But you're there so why not check).

 

[spartacus 68]

What's the mileage? Suspension clunks are difficult to isolate. Check the coil spring isn't broken too. Feel with your fingers that the spring end is firmly seated.

Next culprit is top suspension arms. Rubber boots don't need to be torn to show wear. You can jack up and hold the wheel at 10 to 2 position and apply pressure but I rarely find that method works unless they are totally shot, so get a pry bar in there between the arms and use leverage.

If it was high mileage then the ARB rubber mounts can wear, but again if you go to the bother of inspection, easier just to swap them out, as you're dropping the engine tray anyway.