Done in

[himself26]

Is there a specific way fault need to be cleared on VCDS ?

As i have a P1340 fault code indicating

G40 (Cam position sensor) plus G28 engine speed sensor (crank sensor)
Incorrect Correlation.

Ive replaced both with new sensors yet this fault keeps returning.

Hense my question do they need to be cleared in a spesific way & not just by clearing DTC ?

Ive added a thumb nail showing the freeze frame.

 

[MPH]

Is there a specific way fault need to be cleared on VCDS ?

As i have a P1340 fault code indicating

G40 (Cam position sensor) plus G28 engine speed sensor (crank sensor)
Incorrect Correlation.

Ive replaced both with new sensors yet this fault keeps returning.

Hense my question do they need to be cleared in a spesific way & not just by clearing DTC ?

Ive added a thumb nail showing the freeze frame.

https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/dtc_screen.php the method of clearing fault codes

Sent from Syknet Global Defence Network

 

[Alex C]

has the cambelt been done recently? sure the engine is correctly timed?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Incorrect correlation is a fault code that comes up when top to bottom timing is out... normally happens after a belt change and is typically because the belt ends up being a tooth out....

If it doesn't clear then the ECU is still seeing the issue

<tuffty/>

 

[himself26]

Incorrect correlation is a fault code that comes up when top to bottom timing is out... normally happens after a belt change and is typically because the belt ends up being a tooth out....

If it doesn't clear then the ECU is still seeing the issue

<tuffty/>

The fault does clear on VCDS but comes back every time.
The car had a new timing belt / chain / tensioner & water pump last year.
It was running fine untill it split a vacuum pipe & hasnt ran right sinse.
Even though its had.
New plugs
New coil packs
New silicone vacuum pipes
New cam sensor
New crank sensor
New injector seals.

Plus i checked timing marks on cam pully with Number 1 plug out & a long thin driver down the pot to find TDC & the pully mark lines perfectly with the notch in the cam cover.

So thats this threads title explained..lol

 

[<tuffty/>]

If the ECU is thinking its out then there it thinks there is an alignment issue somewhere... thats all I can really say on that tbh...

You can't get rid of a fault that the ECU believes is still a fault.... not really sure what to suggest tbh as it sounds like you have gone through all the normal checks....

Have you checked the cam timing sensors reluctor wheel on the inlet cam to see if its moved at all? they are keyed so should always be aligned...

Std 1.8t cams I assume? not NA cams?

<tuffty/>

 

[himself26]

If the ECU is thinking its out then there it thinks there is an alignment issue somewhere... thats all I can really say on that tbh...

You can't get rid of a fault that the ECU believes is still a fault.... not really sure what to suggest tbh as it sounds like you have gone through all the normal checks....

Have you checked the cam timing sensors reluctor wheel on the inlet cam to see if its moved at all? they are keyed so should always be aligned...

Std 1.8t cams I assume? not NA cams?

<tuffty/>

Yeah standard cams & i removed the reluctor to make sure the locating peg hadnt been flattened. However its fine & locates in the slot on the cam as it should.
What i cant get my head round is how this all started with a split vacuum pipe :-0
Ive checked codes & remedy's on Ross-Tech & the only other thing it could possibly be is a stretched chain but i fitted a brand new chain when i replaced the head about this time last year ?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Not sure what else to suggest at this point other than to check what the ECU is seeing position wise...

Measuring block range is in the 90's
https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/090-098.html

I am not sure which ones particularly as its been a while since I have looked at these blocks (93 rings a bell for positional info) but on idle the value IIRC should be close to zero as VVT is not engaged...

I'd check myself but I don't have std management or a 20v in my car lol

Either way the ECU is not happy with something here so need to see what its seeing really

<tuffty/>

 

[Zans]

i used to have the same code with all marks lined up perfectly so i ended up replacing my timing belt and tensioner which were changed 20k km before and that fixed the problem