DTUK CRD-T+ Tuning Box Review (2.0TDi 190PS)

Scott.T

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Installation :

Total time to install was around 10 minutes. Most of which was spent hunting my tool cupboard for some side cutters for the cable ties.
The engine cover was removed, the Fuel Rail and Boost pressure sensor connectors were identified and the CRD-T+ Loom was attached.
The loom was routed through existing wiring to make tidy and the CRD-T+ was located on the arch liner of the passenger wheel-arch. Cable ties and clever routing of the main connector ensure this is secure and easily accessible.





Performance Improvement :
(This information was posted elsewhere, so apologies but I thought it best to include it in this review)

Using VCDS I have performed some logging, with results as below :

Run 1, Run 2 and Run 3 were all performed on near flat surfaces.
Run 3 is the reverse of Run 1
Run 2 is slightly more inclined, hence why Run 2 is always the longest.
Each run was always started in the same position and repeated in each configuration.

Rpm was held at approx. 1900rpm then WOT (Wide Open Throttle) applied. Results were then read off from 2000rpm.

DTUK setting P1 +3 was noticeably better then P3 -2.
Not only proven in the captured results but even noticeable by the road position at which point the desired rpm was reached and upshift was required.

I'm not sure what the difference to the setting -3 thru' +3 make, but my guess would be more or longer held boost targets.



A few days later :
Since the initials controlled test I have been trying all the CRD-T+ P1, P2, P3 settings and running them all in the +3 configuration. At the moment and due to no controlled conditions I am struggling to feel the difference between them. Perhaps P1 +3 is slightly less responsive at light throttle. I really need to set up a controlled test say at 40% throttle increasing to 75% throttle.

However, I do have a DTUK Pedalbox also fitted (see other review : http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/dtuk-pedal-box.254960/), so perhaps this is masking out some of the low down effect of the CRD-T+ box.
I will try running the CRD-T+ box with the Pedalbox turned off to see if that makes the CDR-T+ settings more noticeable. However, I really can't see me running with the Pedalbox off for long, as the light throttle and fast turbo spool times make it feel like a totally rejuvenated car and how a turbo car should behave (not all this linear, lets make it feel like a Non-Turbo OE type mapping).

I was running the Pedalbox on 'SportPlus' mode, but since fitting the CRD-T+ I have reigned this back to 'Sport -3' setting, as the pedal became a little too sensitive when cruising. SportPlus mode is great for nipping about town though.

Overall :
The improvement from the stock 190PS is noticeable. The car pulls a lot stronger through to 4000-4500 rpm and you no longer feel the need to grab the next gear at 3800rpm.
Torque is much improved as the traction control light, on a Quattro, has made it's first appearance since owning the car.
So far no EML lights on any of the settings.

With the Pedalbox also fitted the responsiveness is much improved to a point of being over-responsive if set on the SportPlus setting.
There is no longer the need to mash the throttle into the carpet to make swift progress. Speed can be attained in a much more relaxed manner.
You can actually feel the turbo working rather then assume it's working in amongst all the diesel engine tractor clatter.
Launching off a roundabout is a lot more fun (Quattro remember !!!!).
Pulling spiritedly out of a T-Junction becomes easier as you do not have to grab the next gear quite so quickly.
Performing an over-take is much more like driving a petrol, being able to hold the revs then floor it through to 4600rpm.

I am very happy in the manner in which both these product have transformed the car. My only concern is 'Why did I have to do this on a £37000 car'. Or is that just a subliminal message from my wife ????

Thanks for reading & I would appreciate any comments or your own opinions/views on this product.
 
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Great review!. Looking to get one of these type of boxes fitted but just waiting until my warranty to expire (Sept 2017).
 
Great review!. Looking to get one of these type of boxes fitted but just waiting until my warranty to expire (Sept 2017).
Great review and details.

Get one now. It's plug and play and can be removed when going to visit dealers. That's why I got my one
 
Installation :

Total time to install was around 10 minutes. Most of which was spent hunting my tool cupboard for some side cutters for the cable ties.
The engine cover was removed, the Fuel Rail and Boost pressure sensor connectors were identified and the CRD-T+ Loom was attached.
The loom was routed through existing wiring to make tidy and the CRD-T+ was located on the arch liner of the passenger wheel-arch. Cable ties and clever routing of the main connector ensure this is secure and easily accessible.





Performance Improvement :
(This information was posted elsewhere, so apologies but I thought it best to include it in this review)

Using VCDS I have performed some logging, with results as below :

Run 1, Run 2 and Run 3 were all performed on near flat surfaces.
Run 3 is the reverse of Run 1
Run 2 is slightly more inclined, hence why Run 2 is always the longest.
Each run was always started in the same position and repeated in each configuration.

Rpm was held at approx. 1900rpm then WOT (Wide Open Throttle) applied. Results were then read off from 2000rpm.

DTUK setting P1 +3 was noticeably better then P3 -2.
Not only proven in the captured results but even noticeable by the road position at which point the desired rpm was reached and upshift was required.

I'm not sure what the difference to the setting -3 thru' +3 make, but my guess would be more or longer held boost targets.



A few days later :
Since the initials controlled test I have been trying all the CRD-T+ P1, P2, P3 settings and running them all in the +3 configuration. At the moment and due to no controlled conditions I am struggling to feel the difference between them. Perhaps P1 +3 is slightly less responsive at light throttle. I really need to set up a controlled test say at 40% throttle increasing to 75% throttle.

However, I do have a DTUK Pedalbox also fitted (see other review : http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/dtuk-pedal-box.254960/), so perhaps this is masking out some of the low down effect of the CRD-T+ box.
I will try running the CRD-T+ box with the Pedalbox turned off to see if that makes the CDR-T+ settings more noticeable. However, I really can't see me running with the Pedalbox off for long, as the light throttle and fast turbo spool times make it feel like a totally rejuvenated car and how a turbo car should behave (not all this linear, lets make it feel like a Non-Turbo OE type mapping).

I was running the Pedalbox on 'SportPlus' mode, but since fitting the CRD-T+ I have reigned this back to 'Sport -3' setting, as the pedal became a little too sensitive when cruising. SportPlus mode is great for nipping about town though.

Overall :
The improvement from the stock 190PS is noticeable. The car pulls a lot stronger through to 4000-4500 rpm and you no longer feel the need to grab the next gear at 3800rpm.
Torque is much improved as the traction control light, on a Quattro, has made it's first appearance since owning the car.
So far no EML lights on any of the settings.

With the Pedalbox also fitted the responsiveness is much improved to a point of being over-responsive if set on the SportPlus setting.
There is no longer the need to mash the throttle into the carpet to make swift progress. Speed can be attained in a much more relaxed manner.
You can actually feel the turbo working rather then assume it's working in amongst all the diesel engine tractor clatter.
Launching off a roundabout is a lot more fun (Quattro remember !!!!).
Pulling spiritedly out of a T-Junction becomes easier as you do not have to grab the next gear quite so quickly.
Performing an over-take is much more like driving a petrol, being able to hold the revs then floor it through to 4600rpm.

I am very happy in the manner in which both these product have transformed the car. My only concern is 'Why did I have to do this on a £37000 car'. Or is that just a subliminal message from my wife ????

Thanks for reading & I would appreciate any comments or your own opinions/views on this product.
@Scott.T - Great write up & interesting thoughts :thumbs up:
 
Update :
As mentioned above I was struggling to detect the difference in drive/torque delivery between Tuning Box settings P1, P2 and P3 with the PedalBox also in place and active.
Therefore, In order to see if I could detect the differences I ran with the Tuning box on 1 +3 and the Pedalbox inactive for a couple of days.
This setting feels like a mildly tweaked OE drive. Still quite a lot of pedal deflection required, similar to the OE mapping (which I struggle with and it annoys me on a car with such great torque potential), but it does move if you press on (literally).

However, today I switched it to 3 +3 with the Pedalbox still inactive and I immediately felt the difference compared to 1 +3. I would even go as far as saying I could feel the pedal response difference when reversing off my drive.

I then done a 97 mile round trip with the Tuning box set at 3 +3 and Pedalbox inactive.
I wasn't hankering the switch the Pedalbox on, and I did check it a couple of times to confirm it was off. This clearly is an indication of the difference between tuning box 1 +3 and 3 +3.

Although not as responsive as with the Pedalbox active, I found the 3 +3 drive very acceptable and how it should of been from factory IMHO. It was a much more pleasurable & relaxed drive and the torque available in the 1400-1800rpm range was quite usable, within 'A' road mixed speed / traffic environments, and with small pedal deflections.

I think the extra torque available combined with a reduced amount of pedal deflection enabled the car to peak at 53.2MPG, and for the entire 97 mile journey return 50.4MPG.
This is the first time I have managed over 50MPG since collecting the car in September 2015 (now covered 3200 miles). And I have tried on several occasions to get it to click into the 50's

Now that I have been able to feel the difference between P1 and P3 I will keep it on 3 +3 and switch the Pedalbox back on (probably Sport -3), as this provides a great response for town driving and takes some of the pedal deflection effort out of spirited driving when on quicker roads.

Overall a great combination, but it does take some time to tune into your style. The only downside, if it really is a downside, is that you have too much to fiddle with that is easily accessible and hence you can't keep you fingers from.....just trying another setting !!!!!
 
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Glad to hear you got the setting most suited to you.

I'm on 3 +2 and have kept it there since I got it. I did put it on 3+3 but car went into limp mode.

Ordered the pedal box today so will update once arrives tomorrow on how I feel the combo together mate.
 
Dont go by the mpg display.
The tuning box increases the rail pressure. The car calculates mpg by using the time the injectors are open.
If you alter the rail pressure, the volume for the same duration squirt will be greater, hence more actual fuel used.

So any mpg comparison has to be done by measuring distance from full tank to full tank.
 
Dont go by the mpg display.
The tuning box increases the rail pressure. The car calculates mpg by using the time the injectors are open.
If you alter the rail pressure, the volume for the same duration squirt will be greater, hence more actual fuel used.

So any mpg comparison has to be done by measuring distance from full tank to full tank.

But higher pressure also gives better atomisation and hence better combustion and efficiency.
 
Maybe, but that's not the point. The car will think it's using less litres than it actually is.
 
Maybe, but that's not the point. The car will think it's using less litres than it actually is.
I didn't fit it for economy ;)
Just saying that it's the 1st time it went above 50MPG. Maybe it's just coincidence.
 
Nice review Scott, glad your liking the tuning box. I'm convinced they put the better MPG claims in for men to have an excuse for the wife.

" faster ? Yes love but I want it for better MPG, it will pay for itself"
 
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Scott I'm surprised youre running the box on + 3, we usually advise running them on + 1 maximum :) as anything higher may cause an engine light, but this is car dependant tbh.
 
After much, very welcome and helpful, support from DTUK the only map that seems NOT to throw an error for me is 2+2 - (2010 2.0TDI 170PS). To be fair DTUK we're very patient and helped me trouble shoot.

I used to get about 350/tank which has now gone to about 380-400/tank - about 32MPG when calculated at the pump litres/miles. Note that I have possibly the worst possible commute for fuel consumption and this goes up loads on a full tank of motorway driving.

Map2+2 seems to give me a really good range of power across the board - certainly helps me out in the lanes when overtaking in 3/4th - it's much more responsive than stock. Quicker off the line also.
 
Scott I'm surprised youre running the box on + 3, we usually advise running them on + 1 maximum :) as anything higher may cause an engine light, but this is car dependant tbh.

@ABYSS, yes running on +3 and have done so since fitting.
I only ventured on to -3 during my first logging session. This was by mistake as I assumed on the controller that 'Green' 1, 2, 3 on the right of the controller where + (Green means 'GO' and all that), when infact they are to the left and 'Red'. Since then every test/trip out has been on +3

Currently running Tuning Box 'P3 +3' and 'Pedal Box City +3' as trying to decide whether its a better all-rounder compared to 'Sport -3'

For those that have witnessed an EML, does this come on fairly soon or does it take a considerable time to flag a fault.
I've done a tank and half of fuel with no EML yet.
 
I have run mine on +2 on my 3.0 TDI for a couple of thousand miles without EML. I'm also surprised by the advice to go +1 maximum by ABYSS. I have not heard this before.
 
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@ABYSS

I put my box on 3 +3 and got EML instantly and limp mode. Vcds scan showed low fuel pressure or rail pressure... I cleared and set to 3 +2.

It has been on 3 +2 ever since and this is setting with most power that car can handle and keeps me
Happy too... Got the pedal box yesterday so will get that fitted and add some feedback
 
Depends how aggressive you want the pedal feel.
I liked the pedal box sport+ setting without the tuning box. But when the tuning box went on I reigned the pedal box settings back.
I would recommend fitting the tuning box first then if you want the extra aggression go for the pedal box later.
 
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After much, very welcome and helpful, support from DTUK the only map that seems NOT to throw an error for me is 2+2 - (2010 2.0TDI 170PS). To be fair DTUK we're very patient and helped me trouble shoot.

I used to get about 350/tank which has now gone to about 380-400/tank - about 32MPG when calculated at the pump litres/miles. Note that I have possibly the worst possible commute for fuel consumption and this goes up loads on a full tank of motorway driving.

Map2+2 seems to give me a really good range of power across the board - certainly helps me out in the lanes when overtaking in 3/4th - it's much more responsive than stock. Quicker off the line also.

Further to above and a bit more playing I've continued to run 2+2 since the post and it's been fine, very noticeable difference in performance but not really anything noticeable ref MPG - it wasn't my primary reason for buying so not worried about that. It has triggered the warning light on multiple occasions but few and far between and I've decided to live with it.

Last week I went up to 2+3 purely out of curiosity and I hadn't gone above +2 on any setting previously. I noticed a really positive difference, much smoother drive and less temptation on the right foot as it just didn't need it - noticeably better performance and for the first time a tangible difference in fuel consumption! I'll see how I go with the warning light, okay so far!

N
 
Hi Guys,
I am a newbie here and just got my very first Audi....Its a 2.0tdi Auto 187 bhp special edition plus convertible in black.
Looking at this thread, Am I right in thinking boxes will give a higher bhp? Most of the remaps I have seen seem to give around 215, the DTUK box claims 250 ish?
Are these simple to install? and set up?
Thanks all
 
As op says, 10 mins to install then you need to set up to suit your particular car.
Thank you.... So are these better then a remap? Some people are not able to get the full claimed output because the ecu light trips?
 
Thank you.... So are these better then a remap? Some people are not able to get the full claimed output because the ecu light trips?

The merits (and demerits of both remaps and tuning boxes are extensively debated elsewhere in this forum, just take time and do some reading.
The dtuk box does all that l want on my car. I also have a pedalbox from them.
You pays your money and makes your choice!