Fitting an AndyMac AMSS setup (sub, amp to Bose headunit).

Farmor00 said:
take some pictures of MDF install and tell me the result. if it lowers rattle ill definitely follow your lead!
Click to expand...
I have just received my custom size rings finally after a long delay I will probably fit over the weekend and upload some pics etc p.s I have a spare set if you are interested let me know.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Farmor00 and s3mad_dude
The weekend is here again only one week late! lol took door cards off to fit MDF rings and turns out they are completely the wrong size outer diameter too large to fit in the small space! inner diameter is too small to line up with the original Audi 3 screws so back on with the plastic ones that I adapted within micro millimetres turns out the JL C3,s are an awkward fit, to say the least depth is fine though so going to give these one's a try as the last shot or the plastic stays for now! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185240958744 In other news the JL C1 rears were o.k as infill speakers but again I wanted something better so go my hands on a set of C5 650x and started to install crossovers bolted to the inner panel rewire etc I enclose a couple of pics to show dimensions of front & rears and pdf specs of everything to date! should be completed this week! waiting on parts for installation yet again I will take some pics of the rear install as and when but for now must be patient until parts come until next time.....P.S sounds amazing so far Minimum 400w Design 550w Maximum 730w JL Audio C3 525JL Audi C5 650x
 

Attachments

  • C3_525_MAN.pdf
    1.1 MB · Views: 77
  • C5_650x_MAN.pdf
    696.4 KB · Views: 57
  • JL 8W3v3_MANUAL.pdf
    149.6 KB · Views: 82
  • ALPINE MRV-F450 MANUAL.PDF
    814.4 KB · Views: 76
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Farmor00 and s3mad_dude
Adapter rings turned up for the rear panels! & turned out to be a perfect fit this time!:sign wow: cut down the original Audi screw mounts with the dremmel for closer fit lucky it worked one had already snapped off in a garage incident so I had seen the hole runs right down if not was going to pilot the holes, rings are 12mm thick! 200mm exterior &145mm interior diameter made up some looms from the JL650s to gold plated banana plugs for quick release in case future adjustments are required probably will lol! Some stainless steel self tapers for the speaker mounting countersunk the screws in the original holes for a better fit. Used marine-grade silicone sealant to completely seal the rings to the existing plastic mounts left to dry overnight, meanwhile I bolted the crossovers towards the rear of the panel having checked the position with the panel they just about fitted and screwed the female banana socket onto some foam neoprene in case or vibrations etc also plugs were hard to remove when flush to the panel made some small looms for these! I have put some 8oz wadding in the void as to experiment with the sound dampening. So far so good went to do a preliminary install today all going well a very tight fit indeed I think it will all just about work out once fully assembled so off I drove with the panels partially on then suddenly beep ****** airbag warning on so for safety sake about turn and back to base for a scan turns out I had knocked the drivers' side seatbelt tensioner off so removed panel to investigate further another plastic clip came away from the panel so into the garage with some gorilla glue to refix try again tomorrow IC5 570 2 3C5 650x FRTAudi fixing HolesStainless Steel Self TapersJL Audi 650xSide ViewRear PanelDrivers Side Rear will enclose some pics so far.
 

Attachments

  • Crossover Location.jpg
    Crossover Location.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 87
  • Banana Plug.jpg
    Banana Plug.jpg
    890.9 KB · Views: 89
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Farmor00 and hydro s3
MPH said:
No problem as soon as I get them and fit I will let you know the result and upload some photos.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
So finally found some adapters https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185240958744 that fit perfectly @Farmor00 used marine grade silicone sealant once the rings were screwed in place to keep any air from leaking out and some low profile self tappers https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183731869133 to secure the MDF rings in place leaving to dry overnight! I ended up putting the crossovers in the door out of harm's way, will install and do the driver's side tomorrow here is a few pics for now.S l160020220127 14295120220127 14404720220127 15125420220127 15370620220127 153713
 
  • Like
Reactions: hydro s3 and Farmor00
notafordfocus said:
Ok thanks, going to look into this. I'm not fussed for the changer, im going to try and find a way of getting bluetooth audio into the system.
Click to expand...
@notafordfocus I have attached a couple of pdfs of the Connects2 phone and Bluetooth audio connection works perfect on the OEM head-unit tested over the last 6 months with no issues at all nice and compact little unit easy to wire in etc also the microphone is up to scratch.
 

Attachments

  • CTAADBT003 BLUETOOTH MANUAL.pdf
    699 KB · Views: 85
  • CTAADBT003 and CTAADUSB003_install_Instructions.pdf
    348.8 KB · Views: 75
MPH said:
Adapter rings turned up for the rear panels! & turned out to be a perfect fit this time!:sign wow: cut down the original Audi screw mounts with the dremmel for closer fit lucky it worked one had already snapped off in a garage incident so I had seen the hole runs right down if not was going to pilot the holes, rings are 12mm thick! 200mm exterior &145mm interior diameter made up some looms from the JL650s to gold plated banana plugs for quick release in case future adjustments are required probably will lol! Some stainless steel self tapers for the speaker mounting countersunk the screws in the original holes for a better fit. Used marine-grade silicone sealant to completely seal the rings to the existing plastic mounts left to dry overnight, meanwhile I bolted the crossovers towards the rear of the panel having checked the position with the panel they just about fitted and screwed the female banana socket onto some foam neoprene in case or vibrations etc also plugs were hard to remove when flush to the panel made some small looms for these! I have put some 8oz wadding in the void as to experiment with the sound dampening. So far so good went to do a preliminary install today all going well a very tight fit indeed I think it will all just about work out once fully assembled so off I drove with the panels partially on then suddenly beep ****** airbag warning on so for safety sake about turn and back to base for a scan turns out I had knocked the drivers' side seatbelt tensioner off so removed panel to investigate further another plastic clip came away from the panel so into the garage with some gorilla glue to refix try again tomorrow IView attachment 249007View attachment 249008View attachment 249009View attachment 249010View attachment 249011View attachment 249012View attachment 249013View attachment 249014 will enclose some pics so far.
Click to expand...
Do you mind linking the rear 6.5 adapters?
 
  • Like
Reactions: MPH
Coded the radio to see if there was much sound difference in the tone and just for the fun of seeing it say Bose really! Testing is still in progress lol!
The code that was in there was 00201 factory I entered 00211 Bose, the radio now says BOSE on power-up. Another note to add you have to cycle the key off and back on for these changes to take place after recoding.Concert CodeRadio CodingBose Code20220215 175048
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Farmor00 and s3mad_dude
Why couldn’t they have centred the word Bose on the early Concert head unit?

Is it just me!? :blahblah1:

Also, was there any difference you noticed?
 
  • Like
Reactions: MPH
s3mad_dude said:
Why couldn’t they have centred the word Bose on the early Concert head unit?

Is it just me!? :blahblah1:

Also, was there any difference you noticed?
Click to expand...
Definitely uncentered lol will let you know about the sound difference later when I have tested it fully as only coded it yesterday.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
MPH said:
Definitely uncentered lol will let you know about the sound difference later when I have tested it fully as only coded it yesterday.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Update sound is definitely more tonally balanced even set at the midpoint bass and treble sound cleaner plenty of midrange oodles of volume on current amp settings previously sound was full on so I would say it's overall a good move! also going to experiment with the Bluetooth streaming poweramp app on Google play through the Samsung galaxy s10 plus many settings to be had.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
MPH said:
So finally found some adapters https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185240958744 that fit perfectly @Farmor00 used marine grade silicone sealant once the rings were screwed in place to keep any air from leaking out and some low profile self tappers https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183731869133 to secure the MDF rings in place leaving to dry overnight! I ended up putting the crossovers in the door out of harm's way, will install and do the driver's side tomorrow here is a few pics for now.View attachment 249073View attachment 249074View attachment 249075View attachment 249076View attachment 249077View attachment 249078
Click to expand...
So quick update the C2 kit doesnt fit with these adapters as they hit the metal bar behind which attaches to the windshield motor.
Do you have any clearance issues with the C3 kit? The C3 kit have 7mm less depth officially and I'm not sure that's enough honestly as the MDF adapters which add about 6-10mm its a tight fit for the C2 series even without them.
 
Farmor00 said:
So quick update the C2 kit doesnt fit with these adapters as they hit the metal bar behind which attaches to the windshield motor.
Do you have any clearance issues with the C3 kit? The C3 kit have 7mm less depth officially and I'm not sure that's enough honestly as the MDF adapters which add about 6-10mm its a tight fit for the C2 series even without them.
Click to expand...
No problems at all fit with ease! strange only about 6mm of the MDF adapter protrudes once fitted and a further 6mm difference in speaker dimensions between the C2 vs the C3 so really we are talking about a 6mm difference in total let me know if anything develops as cannot think of a solution atm. The only thing it could be the C3s has a curved magnet so that could possibly affect the depth in the fitting location. I have also noticed it says on the C2 specs pdf C= 70mm magnet outer diameter without cover is it removable?
 

Attachments

  • C2_525_MAN.pdf
    761.8 KB · Views: 76
  • C3_525_MAN.pdf
    1.1 MB · Views: 69
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Farmor00
MPH said:
No problems at all fit with ease! strange only about 6mm of the MDF adapter protrudes once fitted and a further 6mm difference in speaker dimensions between the C2 vs the C3 so really we are talking about a 6mm difference in total let me know if anything develops as cannot think of a solution atm. The only thing it could be the C3s has a curved magnet so that could possibly affect the depth in the fitting location. I have also noticed it says on the C2 specs pdf C= 70mm magnet outer diameter without cover is it removable?
Click to expand...
Yeah i removed cover and than i could actually get the door card on But it still sits on the black metal bar behind it. I might order to C3s than and sell the C2s. i could Also always sand down the MDF adapters If i still have fitment issues with the C3s.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MPH
Farmor00 said:
Yeah i removed cover and than i could actually get the door card on But it still sits on the black metal bar behind it. I might order to C3s than and sell the C2s. i could Also always sand down the MDF adapters If i still have fitment issues with the C3s.
Click to expand...
The C3s should fit o.k as I have the same dimensions and no problems whatsoever keep me updated all the best Mark.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Farmor00
I thought I would upload the Radio CD Telephone & Navigation System PDF please excuse the quality as I have had to compress due to size limitations of the site should anyone need a quality copy please inbox me with your email address and I would be happy to supply them. There should be 2 but cannot upload 2nd one
 

Attachments

  • Radio, telephone and navigation system-compressed.pdf
    6.9 MB · Views: 88
Last edited:
MPH said:
The C3s should fit o.k as I have the same dimensions and no problems whatsoever keep me updated all the best Mark.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
everything fits and works well. have not driven the car much since we still have snow here in sweden but first impressions are good.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MPH
MPH said:
I kept the stock head unit love the OEM look and amped it up over 5 channels via an alpine v12 amp! removed the plastic sub in favour of the basser box and 8 inch Jl audio sub replaced stock speakers and all wiring with jls all round! sounds fantastic have a look though the thread I will be happy to help you out where needed the only pdfs I have are about the andymac amss front and rear speaker removal etc.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Old thread this but wonder if you can shed some light for me . I've done away with the Audi sub in my 2018 Audi rs3 as it's crap , I've fitted a vibe 65.4 amp with t harness to the head unit to amp the front speakers , then I've fitted a vibe 400.1 in the boot to power a vibe blackair p8 spare wheel sub . I've spliced into the original Audi sub with a high low converter to give me signal to the 400.1 amp to save running RCA to the front of the car . Everything powers up as is should and powers down . Sub works but I get the dreaded sub Pop on shut down . Any cure to this ? Isnit because I'm using a cheap **** RCA converter ? Tia for any help muchly appreciated Danny
 
Dannyrs said:
Old thread this but wonder if you can shed some light for me . I've done away with the Audi sub in my 2018 Audi rs3 as it's crap , I've fitted a vibe 65.4 amp with t harness to the head unit to amp the front speakers , then I've fitted a vibe 400.1 in the boot to power a vibe blackair p8 spare wheel sub . I've spliced into the original Audi sub with a high low converter to give me signal to the 400.1 amp to save running RCA to the front of the car . Everything powers up as is should and powers down . Sub works but I get the dreaded sub Pop on shut down . Any cure to this ? Isnit because I'm using a cheap **** RCA converter ? Tia for any help muchly appreciated Danny
Click to expand...
Might be better off asking this in the 8V section dude... 8L wiring will be a bit different to the way its sorted in the later cars

<tuffty/>
 
I installed a delay trigger module to cure the pop noise on start/shut down. I used a PAC-TR4 and installed it between the headunit and amp to cause a delay to the amp turning on the sub when triggered by the nearby rear speaker turning on. There is also a PAC-TR7 with some extra features, and also a ‘flagship’ programmable model: PAC-TR12.

catalog.pac-audio.com

Low Voltage Trigger Module - PAC

catalog.pac-audio.com catalog.pac-audio.com
 

Attachments

  • 1B6E381B-8974-4395-AEE4-4AEDE8083A66.jpeg
    1B6E381B-8974-4395-AEE4-4AEDE8083A66.jpeg
    362 KB · Views: 53
Last edited:
s3mad_dude said:
I installed a delay trigger module to cure the pop noise on start/shut down. I used a PAC-TR4 and installed it between the headunit and amp to cause a delay to the amp turning on the sub when triggered by the nearby rear speaker turning on. There is also a PAC-TR7 with some extra features, and also a ‘flagship’ programmable model: PAC-TR12.

catalog.pac-audio.com

Low Voltage Trigger Module - PAC

catalog.pac-audio.com catalog.pac-audio.com
Click to expand...
Thanks mate what car was this on and was it with an aftermarket sub you had the issues with and were you using the existing Audi sub wiring for a signal . According to vibe there's now much I can do about it , that say it's just the way the factory head unit remote works .
 
It was on my 2002 8L Audi S3, but was in a similar setup to you. Audi sub wiring went straight into the PAC-TR4, which provided the delayed power for the remote turn on (I didn’t use the existing Audi sub wiring remote turn on). I installed an aftermarket amp and aftermarket subwoofer all connected up to the factory headunit and factory Bose speaker setup.

See Post No. 15 and post 20 of this thread.
 
Last edited:
s3mad_dude said:
It was on my 2002 8L Audi S3, but was in a similar setup to you. Audi sub wiring went straight into the PAC-TR4, which provided the delayed power for the remote turn on (I didn’t use the existing Audi sub wiring remote turn on). I installed an aftermarket amp and aftermarket subwoofer all connected up to the factory headunit and factory Bose speaker setup.
Click to expand...
Ok sweet that sounds very simple then so I can just loop the pac-tr4 In the boot no need to pull the mib2 head unit out to install it there. My only issue being my sub wiring for the Audi only has to wires going to it . Like so . Thanks for your help much appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20221107_210015.jpg
    IMG_20221107_210015.jpg
    5.8 MB · Views: 48
Yeah I don’t know what those two wires are for yours, but the wiring plug going to my sub had five wires (remote on, left/right audio and two screen wires). Agreed, no real point pulling the MIB out when you can install the delay trigger in a more convenient location further down the wiring. Hope you get it solved soon.
 
s3mad_dude said:
Yeah I don’t know what those two wires are for yours, but the wiring plug going to my sub had five wires (remote on, left/right audio and two screen wires). Agreed, no real point pulling the MIB out when you can install the delay trigger in a more convenient location further down the wiring. Hope you get it solved soon.
Click to expand...
Im pressuming this is going to be left and right speaker . Problem with the Audi sound system is there won't be a remote wire to the sub because the Audi sub is amped of the mib2 head unit hence why it sounds utter *****. I'm going to try running RCA to the front of the car and plug into the RCA output on the 65.4 amp , ill also disconnect the RCA and jump the remote of the 12v and if I still get a Pop on shut down then I'm ******* against the wind and will just need to live with it . If all else fails then maybe try a noise filter and see if that does anything. I have seen people say if you don't get a good hi low level converter you will get sound Pop on shut down on the sub
 
  • Like
Reactions: s3mad_dude
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

s3mad_dude
Andymac Stealth sub fitting guide PDF
Replies
8
Views
2K
<tuffty/>
<tuffty/>
RichardHarvey
bose amp + sub direct replacement
Replies
4
Views
855
RichardHarvey
RichardHarvey
H
Bose Pre-Outs to Amp - split to a sub??
Replies
0
Views
1K
hooley
H
R
Aftermarket sub and amp with standard headunit?
Replies
2
Views
705
Red1
R
Sanj
AndyMac Stealth Sub
Replies
33
Views
3K
campbell
campbell
Top
Back