Going to buy a b8 A4 2.0tdi... Things to look out for?

DriverN00B

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As the title says really, any specific pointers? It's the 143bhp model. I've done some searching and can't say I've come across any recurring problems or anything major.

Also it's an auto - will it be a CVT box? Any specific maintenance interval on those?

Cheers
 
Same engine as mine the only problem I've had is the brake servo hissing so that is one thing to look out for. Its pretty solid other than that.
 
They are a solid car for sure but I went for a manual, to many horror stories about the CVT or auto models , that's my opinion if it is any help.
 
I have bought mine recently and the issues that I have had is the door actuator on the rear doors have been playing up so when I come to unlock it after it has been locked I have to reach to the inside handle to open the door.

My heated seat doesn't work, I guess the coil is burned out but might be worth checking both of them.

My aircon was working really well originally and hoping that it just needs a regards as it's not blowing cold anymore.

Haven't had any other problems as of yet and hopefully don't get anymore !
 
Same as mine.
Lovely to drive. bit short on power. EGR's and throttle flap is common according to the dealers, had mine done under warranty (1 yr approved used)
Really worth a remap, how the car should've been from the factory in my opinion.

Again mine is a manual, heard a few horror stories re the auto's but you only hear the bad and not the good generally.

Hope you find one.

John
 
Don't worry about the cvts. The horror stories relate to the pre 2005 boxes. The cvt in the b8 is very strong. So long as you stick to the 40k mile oil change intervals

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What I would say is drive the 170 model too, I test drove the 140 and was disappointed, tried 2 140s in low mileage a3s (black edition and normal) and coming down from a mapped 1.8t petrol felt very gutless to me (apples and oranges I know). test drove the 170 A4 because why not and had no intention of getting it, and it was night and day for me, picked up the same high miler 2.0tdi 170cr I test drove that day, no regrets. I would of personally regretted the 140 had I settled.
 
Also some changes was done to the engine and steering from the 2010 onwards, so i would get 2010+
 
The mpg is no where near stated. According to owners on here it gets between 30-35mpg, the same as the petrol version.
 
The mpg is no where near stated. According to owners on here it gets between 30-35mpg, the same as the petrol version.

I hear that often about the 140 and some 170 and I dont know if it is because I am an exception to the rule, but over 3 years in this car I get very good MPG, I do mainly motorway and usually get to my 60mile destination on 55mpg at least, and do see more if its a good journey (including being sat in m25 traffic), I see 45-49 on short journeys and have always been very impressed. My trip computer says over average is 49mpg from last 3 months.
2.0tdi 170 2010 start/stop with 117k on the clock. Shell only fuel, stupidly heavy wheels 10j wide.
 
I hear that often about the 140 and some 170 and I dont know if it is because I am an exception to the rule, but over 3 years in this car I get very good MPG, I do mainly motorway and usually get to my 60mile destination on 55mpg at least, and do see more if its a good journey (including being sat in m25 traffic), I see 45-49 on short journeys and have always been very impressed. My trip computer says over average is 49mpg from last 3 months.
2.0tdi 170 2010 start/stop with 117k on the clock. Shell only fuel, stupidly heavy wheels 10j wide.

My mpg is similar to meemo's I have the 143 and get 55 mpg on average. I got 610 miles out of my tank a couple weeks ago and it still had 8 litres in it. I use bp ultimate in it.
 
Mines a 143 remapped and mpg is great. Do a 60 mile round trip to work daily and reads early 50s most of the time. I do drive with quite a inefficient style too to be fair! :p
 
I've been toying with the idea of the dtuk box. Still undecided so will give yours a try and decide from there I think.
May as well mate. Think the power is fairly standard for most remaps/etc on that engine so just depends on the method of doing it I suppose.
 
I have had 2. A 2010 B8 143 CVT and a 2013 B8.5 143 CVT.

Both have been great cars, the CVT and 143 engine go well together, using the torque to push the car forward at under 2000 rpm most of the time, when you put you foot down it smoothly accelerates cos it's always in the correct gear. I had the transmission oil changed at the 3 year service (38000 miles) and the B8.5 seemed smoother in reverse afterwards.
I get 45 mpg doing a 30 mile cross country commute, 55 if on a long journey. So I regularly see almost 600 miles between fill ups.

I sometimes tow a 8ft x 5ft x 6ft box trailer and that drops the economy down to 35 mpg, but the car pulls it easily.

I did not hesitate to buy the second one and might even buy a third soon, I normally keep my cars till they are 3 years old but kept the B8 for 4 years and this one is 3.5 years old already.

Mine has not been mapped, but based on my past experience with another car I would not buy a DTUK box, they are just fooling the ECU into squirting more fuel in, go for a remap where the timing and duration of fuel are set up properly on a map.
 
Mine has not been mapped, but based on my past experience with another car I would not buy a DTUK box, they are just fooling the ECU into squirting more fuel in, go for a remap where the timing and duration of fuel are set up properly on a map.
Thanks for the advise bud that's the main thing holding me back at the moment.