Haldex always in 4WD, rear wheels scratch when turning

[Bernimac]

Hi everyone,

Im Bertrand from France, and I have a Golf 4 v6 4motion 2002 (Haldex 1st Gen)

I changed my Haldex controller because it used to be always in 4WD, and when i had to park or make a u-turn my rear wheels were "scratching" and Drifting on the ground, with a weird noise ( not easy to explain in english, but i know the issue is known on these models)

So after reading a few threads on this issue, i bought a complete Rear Diff and Haldex (from 1999), and i installed the Haldex controller on my car. The parking and turning issue was solved, but now i think i am always in 2WD...and i have a error code in VCDS:

-01324 - control module for all wheel drive (j492)
004 no signal/communication intermittent

But if I make the Haldex test, group 22, i can ear the haldex pump

My 2 controllers are not exactly the same..the original one is flat with an aluminium flat gasket, and the "new" one is like the picture..
I read on this forum that the one in the picture is without ESP and the flat one is with ESP, and that's why i am always in 2WD...

Does someone knows if i am right ?
Is there any way to fix my old controler?
If I buy an other controller on the net, how to be sure that it will work normally ?

 

[thegoal007]

I had the issue you describe, people have reported various solutions from simply changing the haldex oil and filter to replacing the rear diff/haldex and I even read of an occasion whereby someone ended up replacing the ABS controller unit (another £1K part!).
I replaced my haldex controller and resolved my issue. I purchased mine brand new and boxed from the USA.

What I would say is
a. are you sure the controller you replaced was good ? bearing in mind this is a well known reported issue and a very high chance you get another dodgy one.
b. how do you know you were always in 4wd ? The issue you describe is not enough of a reason.
c. The pump noise you hear only means that part is working. there are so many other components to rule out.

 

[s3mad_dude]

@thegoal007 Where exactly did you source your new controller from as I’m struggling to find a new part! Was it online somewhere? Thanks.

 

[Bernimac]

Thanks for your answer!
So to answer your questions:

a: no i am not sur its working, and its not exactly the same because the new one isn't flat on the gasket side..its like on the picture..its from a 99 car, and i think the ones who aren't flat on the gasket side is for car without ESP. Maybe that's why i am only in 2WD now.. also i Have the 01324 error code, that i didn't have with the old Haldex controller.

b:I had a real 4x4 torsen sutzuki, and when i was in 4x4 mode i had the same issue when parking and u-turning: rear wheels "scratch" and "drift" on the ground.. Not easy to explain in english for me, but it was weird and not normal. On the french forums all the people with this issue changed their Haldex controller and it was ok

c:But with the old controller i didn't have any error code. And broken pump=2wd always..

I bought 2 other Haldex controller, flat on the gasket side, i will try to install them on the car. I opened my old controller and everything looked good, the step-in motor was turning by hand quite easily..

In europe the Haldex controller is not produced anymore and impossible to find a new one in second Hand.. How did you find a new one in USA ? What price ? Did you have the same parking and u-turning issue ?

 

[Tj 0785]

If your after a brand new controller last time I checked it was £1000 and your old controller from tps other than that 2nd hand from a breakers

 

[thegoal007]

OK, so i was an extremely patient person and I would say one lucky person.
I had the issue for a about 2 years+ , simply taking it easy when doing those U turns, etc Then one day on Eb*y I saw the new one for sale in USA. I cant remember the precise details surrounding how it came up for sale, but I think it became visible after some stock check in a parts place. It arrived officially boxed/badged and same part number as I wanted - NEW and unused. I paid only £155 including delivery + customs.
I should be so lucky now to find anything like that now, but no harm in keeping an eb*y watch alert setup.
I still have the original unit. If anything ever happens (touch wood - NOT) and the car is written off I can swap the unit back and sell it separately!

 

[thegoal007]

this looks like yours..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-S3-...079347&hash=item3d94ff9627:g:fa0AAOSwvFJdnZE-

doesn't look too expensive to me..30 days warranty.

 

[Bernimac]

Yes you were very lucky for that controller ! The one on eBay is like the second I bought, it has the hole between the 2 oil holes.. my original is totally flat on the gasket side..like this one

Also I saw somewhere that the ones like the eBay one are without ESP, code 02D900554B are without ESP, and the flat ones like the picture 02D900554C are with ESP..
that’s my issue now, I think they aren’t compatible, because mine is always 2wd and I have the error code VCDS « 01324 no connection with 4 wheel drive controller » with the second Haldex controller (02D900554b)

 

[AGB-S3]

I had this problem. then big shock , was finding the haldex was not repairable ..

Mine failed the 'tesco' test, tesco car park tarmac , seems to be very grippy , on backing
out of a slot, the inner rear wheel would skip/jump

Removing the fuse [ 31 ?] stopped this happening

The car was not in 100% 4x4 , doing a test on wet grass and slow-motion video
the fronts could be seen to rotate 90 deg before the back engaged

I whine from the rear diff also was apparent round 70 , probably due to the parasitic
strait line loading


A phone call with the haldex repair shop, brought up was a problem getting the
clear , coating off the cct , to allow any work on the device , which suffers from
link wires being detached , more where displaced by the action , and required a spot welder

[NB- from what I can see , the coating looks very much like humiseal , which is found on
aircraft and other electronic cct boards , there is a removal fluid , not cheap , but
available ] [ google humiseal]

Luckily , I picked up a lower mileage diff and a working haldex unit , all is well for now

I suspect , as the original haldex , did not display any fault codes , stopping the pump
cleared the wheel skipping , and the video showed the device , required 90 deg front slip
to fully engage , ie was still under the control of the traction controller

The actual fault is/was the high pressure oil control valve passing , be it seat worn , seals worn flat, piston wear ridges etc
or other , which , may actually be refurbish-able , not beyond the average model maker , could be a big market for some one -)

 

[Bernimac]

I don’t get everything cause my technical English isn’t so good, but when you say :
« I whine from the rear diff also was apparent round 70 , probably due to the parasitic straight line loading «
It means there was a noise when driving at 70 in straight line ?
I never had noise or issues in straight line

What is the cct ? The ecu under the gel ?
I opened my old haldex controller and all the seals looks good. The seal under the steppin motor was oily, so the steppin motor too, but I can turn the tooth wheel of the motor by hand.

I bought 3 haldex controller on e.bay so I will try to install them and repair the old one..

 

[AGB-S3]

Ok, diff whine / tone / noise , i think was caused , by the diff having a ''slight'' ''small amount'' ''should not be there'' drive
the 4x4 system has no slip , so the '' imbalance'' , ''slight differences'' in the wheel speeds , cause the system to wind up , = wrong loading on the drive train = short life =

cct is shot for circuit , electrical circuit , circuit board , the water or weather protection is a clear 'jelly like'' substance , I suspect is Humiseal , used on aircraft equipment and other electronic systems that might get 'damp' which has a solvent remover

With no fuse , the pump is stopped , = no drive from haldex = no wheel slipping

On mine - Dumping the clutch on wet grass , front wheels rotated 90 deg , before rear wheels started to move
which = haldex under the control of the power / traction control = electronics still working ?


I suspect the control valve is worn and leaking slightly , enough to partially engage the haldex clutch

 

[Bernimac]

ok thanks for your answer !!

So you changed the diff also or only the haldex controller?
for the control valve leaking, did you try to replace the valve joints/gaskets ?
When i removed my valves, they were "difficult" to put it back, i mean i had to push with a screwdriver to insert them. So i think they work..
I have to try in the snow to know if the 4WD is working or not..

But i think my diff and Haldex clutch are good because with the second Haldex controller it is not stuck in 4wd as before..
Its so difficult to find out where the issue comes from...

Could my error code 01324 could come from when i changed the haldex controller ?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Have you cleared the fault code to see if it comes back?

<tuffty/>

 

[AGB-S3]

Yes

Changed the Diff + haldex assy as one for lower mileage unit , re-fitted fitted old pump and fitted second hand haldex controller
also replaced the drive shock absorber , upto now all is working

I think the actual control valve , may be proportional control valve is worn , so hydraulic oil is passing slightly , causing the clutch to engage , when the fuse is out , and pressure , zero, the rear wheel skipping stopped , need to hack one apart , see if it can be re-worked , may be something obvious

I had no error codes , this was all by observation

 

[Bernimac]

Have you cleared the fault code to see if it comes back?

<tuffty/>

i cleared it but i didn't check again.. i will do it tomorrow

 

[Bernimac]

so i checked earlier and the code 01324 isn't here anymore.. i am happy, but i want to be sure that the 4 motion works well so i will try it in the snow soon.
Thanks for your help mates