Help - 1.9/2.0TDI Recommendations

All it will do though is delay the inevitable...like you've experienced, eventually you are having to replace the shaft for a modified one as the changed hex key just isn't cutting it.

You're right. I've been keeping an eye on it and replacing with the later solid 77mm hex keys when doing an oil change just to help delay it failing. I would hate for it to fail so will get it changed to the 100mm and just mentioned it's been changed when I come to sell the car.


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Interesting comments, I would say a diesel with only 114K on the clock should be fine.

Never checked the HEX on my A3, never really thought about it.
Those who don't know, my A3 is a 2010 2.0tdi CBBB engine 170bhp as standard.
It was remapped via REVO, good remap, didn't take the **** and went up to around 205/210bhp.

Now has 233K on the clock, as said before no problems.
The only thing big that failed, was the flap runner motor, at £250 I didn't think it was bad!
I service it every 5000 to 8000 miles.

Same turbo, EGR, (not deleted) clutch all original.

John.
 
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All it will do though is delay the inevitable.
Is it inevitable? - thousands of 2005-2010 VAG 2.0 TDIs on the market with very high mileages and no failure. Whilst there is a problem - no doubting that, I suspect it is related to certain "batches" and "production runs". Anecdotal evidence I have collected suggest failure was more common amongst longitudinal set engines rather than the transverse ones. However, the subject clearly "spooks" potential buyers and so the issue can be sidestepped with cars from 2010 onwards or by fitting a kit, alleging a cure, from small engineering firms.
 
It is inevitable with a 77mm , a hexagonal shaft in an non hexagonal keyway with just 15mm contact length.

Good , CR OEM is 100mm key with 35mm contact length .

Aftermarket KMB etc , modified remanufactured is 100mm with 38-40mm contact , hexagonal balancer shaft keyway that's harder .
 
Is it inevitable? - thousands of 2005-2010 VAG 2.0 TDIs on the market with very high mileages and no failure. Whilst there is a problem - no doubting that, I suspect it is related to certain "batches" and "production runs". Anecdotal evidence I have collected suggest failure was more common amongst longitudinal set engines rather than the transverse ones. However, the subject clearly "spooks" potential buyers and so the issue can be sidestepped with cars from 2010 onwards or by fitting a kit, alleging a cure, from small engineering firms.

I think you're undermining how often this happens, as there is a 50-ish page thread with people having issues over in the B7 A4 forum. Failure of about 1% is normal for ANY item, so yes, there will always be some, but with the amount of information and failed items for these online it does seem like the failure rate is higher than 1%, probably nearer the 5% - 10% mark, but that is still A LOT of cars and that high far higher failure rates than you would expect.

Not to mention, if the designed was well within industry standard for failure rates why would they spend time, effort and money to first re-design the hex shaft to make it out of a harder material (still 77mm) and then change over to the 100mm design with the harder hex shaft?

They do these things because they KNOW there is a problem and that failure rates are higher than they should be, not because they are bored and are filling in time making random changes to engine components.

I have no doubt the 100mm design is not going to be perfect either, but instead of maybe the 5-10% failure rate it will reduce it down to 1% or less which is what it should be.

Obviously only VW/ Audi know the real failure rate figures though.
 
How many 2.0 TDIs have been sold by VAG across their brands worldwide and how many fail? - vans, Seat, Skoda, Audi, VW etc Until you know the answer you can't come onto forums using language like it's "inevitable". Have you counted the 2005-2010 2.0 TDI A3s on Auto Trader alone? :yum:

Any statistician will tell you that people who detail an issue on either a forum or by questionnaire are more likely to be those who have had a problem. The silent majority who have had no problem are not going to be motivated to comment.
 
How many 2.0 TDIs have been sold by VAG across their brands worldwide and how many fail? - vans, Seat, Skoda, Audi, VW etc Until you know the answer you can't come onto forums using language like it's "inevitable". Have you counted the 2005-2010 2.0 TDI A3s on Auto Trader alone? :yum:

Any statistician will tell you that people who detail an issue on either a forum or by questionnaire are more likely to be those who have had a problem. The silent majority who have had no problem are not going to be motivated to comment.

Did you even read my last post??
 
It is inevitable with a 77mm , a hexagonal shaft in an non hexagonal keyway with just 15mm contact length.

Good , CR OEM is 100mm key with 35mm contact length .

Aftermarket KMB etc , modified remanufactured is 100mm with 38-40mm contact , hexagonal balancer shaft keyway that's harder .
KMB quote that their revised 100mm balance shaft and hex drive will never fail. They've never had one fail yet.
 
That's right , CR OEM 100mm doesn't either but wear has been observed .
I think I need Kit 9 from the KMB Parts website for my car because it was made before March 2010.

Is there anything else that needs to be replaced while putting the new balance shaft in?
 
Did you even read my last post??
yep - did you read mine? Do you know the answer to how many 2.0 TDIs (probably VAGs most common diesel engine) were sold worldwide - presumably not hence the deflective response :whistle2:
 
:tongueclosed:I will get mine checked next week, but at 233K I think I've had my moneys worth!!
 
Thanks guys for the replies, really useful insights!

The car itself in terms of bodywork/interior is ok, the driver side door seal is torn at the bottom. Engine start up was fine, there was a spanner symbol on the dash though (needs audi service reset?). The main thing I noticed on the test drive was that the clutch pedal felt grindy when I pushed it all the way in and a bit juddery when pulling away, it wasn't enough to really affect driving but could maybe develop into something. Before going I phoned the company that replaced the clutch for the 2nd time (this year) and they said a new DMF was recommended but was declined by the customer, so maybe the juddering is this? Does anyone know how much this would cost, is it worth buying the car with this issue?

The front left tyre was also deflating but alloys seemed in good condition.

History of the car was it was used as a fleet car for a small british company, then sold to a private owner who then part exchanged it at a main dealer.

Any info would help, thanks again guys!
 
yep - did you read mine? Do you know the answer to how many 2.0 TDIs (probably VAGs most common diesel engine) were sold worldwide - presumably not hence the deflective response :whistle2:


Yes I did read yours, but you seemed to get caught up with my first post which used the word "inevitable". That wasn't mentioned anywhere in my response yet you still hung onto it, hence it looked like you didn't even read it.

If you know so much then please enlighten all of us as to "how many 2.0 TDIs were sold worldwide" and of those how many as a percentage have failed. If it's within 1% I'll stand corrected, but unless you can prove that (and I know you can't) your theory doesn't hold water any more than anyone else's. However we DO 100% know that this CAN happen and it HAS happened, so why take the risk when the modification is simple and effective. No-one with a modified 100mm part has complained of the same failure since doing the modification, yet just yesterday someone with a PD engine (77mm shaft) posted in the B7 A4 forum that they have just suffered this failure.
 
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This has gone off-topic beyond average.

@scottgbr595 It's DMF on its way out mate, I'd knock the price down for that or turn away. Usually you change clutch and DMF at the same time for a reason.
 
This has gone off-topic beyond average.

@scottgbr595 It's DMF on its way out mate, I'd knock the price down for that or turn away. Usually you change clutch and DMF at the same time for a reason.
That's what I thought, gonna avoid this car as god knows what else is ******, the A3 search continues! :.(
 

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