Help a 1st time modder!

[ModdingMyS1]

Hey guys,

I recently purchased an S1 as my first nice car and have started adding a few small bits and pieces. So far I have purchased:

Eventuri Intake (installed - expensive but comes with a visible red bit and that's worth at least £1000 so a bargain really)
Forge silicon turbo hose (on the way)
Racingline turbo elbow(on the way)
GFB DVX (on the way)

At first I just wanted to make a little bit more noise so chose the above mods as they seemed subtle and I love how the car drives stock but now I am bitten by the bug and researching all of the options for performance gains and considering APR's stage 1!

I would like to ask for some advice - The car is at 45k miles with full service history and at the moment the car drives beautifully and I love it. No slipping of the clutch and no issues at all in the 5K miles since purchase so can someone explain why after buying and installing a few small parts I want to mess with it and add more power? Just kidding of course! From my research so far, even with stage 1, I will need to at least have an uprated clutch installed and the common concensus suggests the Sachs organic to be a popular choice. I think that I will have the clutch on standby and use the OEM until I experience any slipping (I have read some posts here that have had a happy s1 with stage 1 and OEM clutch for many miles so hoping I might get lucky for a while and won't be driving super aggressive all the time). Sorry for rambling - just trying to make it clear where I am in the process!

My questions to you guys with experience over time with your beautiful modded S1s are:

1. I pass a lot of houses each day, sometimes early in the morning, so I want to avoid pops, bangs and massive loudness increase mods so is it ok to stick with the original exhaust system with a stage 1 map?
2. Related to the above - is it possible to avoid pops and bangs altogether at stage 1 (without driving like a granny ha)?
3. Is the issue of failed CV joints common over time with mapped S1s and are there uprated parts available if this should happen?
4. Do the folks that have installed the 4h-tech shortshifter still enjoy it over time or do you miss the original throw?
5. If I install the shortshifter, should I skip the solid bushings kit or are they complimentary?
3. Are there any additions that I am overlooking?

Sorry for any silly questions - I don't think that I will go past stage 2 at most (I know this will require an intercooler upgrade in addition to the above) as the car is already super fun to drive and a daily driver for me. Thank you!

 

[Phazer]

Hi, welcome to the fold

Nothing silly in there IMO, here's my answers:

1. OEM exhaust is fine for stage 1. Lots remove one or both resonators to increase noise but drone can then be a problem but depends what you want noise wise. Stock exhaust is loud(ish) when the car is warm compared to many now. I've been asked loads if mine has an aftermarket exhaust on it but it doesn't (totally stock) lol
2. Most tuners offer the choice of pop and bangs. Personal opinion, don't do it, it sounds stupid and the noise detectors are starting to appear so why risk a ticket to sound like a bell?
3. Failed CVs can be a problem on the S1 particularly the rear (passenger IIRC). It's mainly due to big amounts of lowering and the shaft having room to move in/out due to the deflection. Thrust washers are/were available to counter this (a popular mod on hot hatches in the 90s used in rallying to help prevent the problem). Bottom line is, small amount of lowering is going to be ok unless you like dumping the clutch for the traffic light GP.
4 & 5. 4Tech shifter is awesome. No question, it's how it should be from the factory. It's still a bit notchy (but that's the selector in the box) but it's better in every single way. You could also get alloy inserts for the cable ends to reduce some slop which may be important if your car has lots of miles on. I don't run these on mine as I don't currently feel the need. Perhaps fit the shifter and see how it feels? Get a mate to move the gear lever and look for additional slack at the cable ends?
6. Yes! Get it lowered

Hope that helps?

 

[ModdingMyS1]

Thanks so much for the info Phazer, extremely helpful.

Nice to hear that pops and bangs can be optional with the map - I will ask some questions with the local APR dealer and great to hear that the stock exhaust can be used at stage 1 too. I personally love the sound of the stock exhaust also, especially in dynamic mode with the valve open and agree it can be nice and loud already (and I read on the forum that the value can potentially be set to permenantly open via the OBD port or by disconnecting a cable which is a nice option to have). I park in an underground garage with a low ceiling and it brings a smile to my face driving out each morning as I can't resist a few revs

The car has not been lowered for now so hopefully the CV joints will be ok for this first upgrade cycle but good to know there are options if this proves an issue over time. I was worried as I didn't find much info on fixing this issue.

Thanks for the shifter feedback - just placed an order and am excited! The install looks nice and DIY-able too as the intake is simple to remove to gain access. I will check the shortshifter alone and see if I need further mods to get a feel that I am happy with.

Another couple of quick questions I just thought of - I am not sure how drive select functions with maps. when the car is mapped do I lose the drive select modes or are they all scaled based on the map with economy mode still on softer suspension settings and valve closed etc? Also, I guess a similar question but I have used Carista to set a few options like throttle always 'direct, controlled by threshold'. Would I still be able to adjust parameters via OBD port after map? I am sure that it's possible but just a thought!

I appreciate the info and can't wait to get Stage 1 installed

 

[Baz999fire]

Hey guys,

I recently purchased an S1 as my first nice car and have started adding a few small bits and pieces. So far I have purchased:

Eventuri Intake (installed - expensive but comes with a visible red bit and that's worth at least £1000 so a bargain really)
Forge silicon turbo hose (on the way)
Racingline turbo elbow(on the way)
GFB DVX (on the way)

At first I just wanted to make a little bit more noise so chose the above mods as they seemed subtle and I love how the car drives stock but now I am bitten by the bug and researching all of the options for performance gains and considering APR's stage 1!

I would like to ask for some advice - The car is at 45k miles with full service history and at the moment the car drives beautifully and I love it. No slipping of the clutch and no issues at all in the 5K miles since purchase so can someone explain why after buying and installing a few small parts I want to mess with it and add more power? Just kidding of course! From my research so far, even with stage 1, I will need to at least have an uprated clutch installed and the common concensus suggests the Sachs organic to be a popular choice. I think that I will have the clutch on standby and use the OEM until I experience any slipping (I have read some posts here that have had a happy s1 with stage 1 and OEM clutch for many miles so hoping I might get lucky for a while and won't be driving super aggressive all the time). Sorry for rambling - just trying to make it clear where I am in the process!

My questions to you guys with experience over time with your beautiful modded S1s are:

1. I pass a lot of houses each day, sometimes early in the morning, so I want to avoid pops, bangs and massive loudness increase mods so is it ok to stick with the original exhaust system with a stage 1 map?
2. Related to the above - is it possible to avoid pops and bangs altogether at stage 1 (without driving like a granny ha)?
3. Is the issue of failed CV joints common over time with mapped S1s and are there uprated parts available if this should happen?
4. Do the folks that have installed the 4h-tech shortshifter still enjoy it over time or do you miss the original throw?
5. If I install the shortshifter, should I skip the solid bushings kit or are they complimentary?
3. Are there any additions that I am overlooking?

Sorry for any silly questions - I don't think that I will go past stage 2 at most (I know this will require an intercooler upgrade in addition to the above) as the car is already super fun to drive and a daily driver for me. Thank you!

Hey great questions, as I’ve just bought an S1 recently too. Just about to do the same mods that you have. How did you find the Eventuri air intake and Racingline turbo elbow? Hope you don’t mind me asking but where did you get these parts from? And where did you order the 4H- tech short shifter from ?
Cheers

 

[Phazer]

Thanks so much for the info Phazer, extremely helpful.

Nice to hear that pops and bangs can be optional with the map - I will ask some questions with the local APR dealer and great to hear that the stock exhaust can be used at stage 1 too. I personally love the sound of the stock exhaust also, especially in dynamic mode with the valve open and agree it can be nice and loud already (and I read on the forum that the value can potentially be set to permenantly open via the OBD port or by disconnecting a cable which is a nice option to have). I park in an underground garage with a low ceiling and it brings a smile to my face driving out each morning as I can't resist a few revs

The car has not been lowered for now so hopefully the CV joints will be ok for this first upgrade cycle but good to know there are options if this proves an issue over time. I was worried as I didn't find much info on fixing this issue.

Thanks for the shifter feedback - just placed an order and am excited! The install looks nice and DIY-able too as the intake is simple to remove to gain access. I will check the shortshifter alone and see if I need further mods to get a feel that I am happy with.

Another couple of quick questions I just thought of - I am not sure how drive select functions with maps. when the car is mapped do I lose the drive select modes or are they all scaled based on the map with economy mode still on softer suspension settings and valve closed etc? Also, I guess a similar question but I have used Carista to set a few options like throttle always 'direct, controlled by threshold'. Would I still be able to adjust parameters via OBD port after map? I am sure that it's possible but just a thought!

I appreciate the info and can't wait to get Stage 1 installed

Happy to help if I can.

The shifter install is pretty easy, can be done in 15 minutes if you've done it before but still easily done in under an hour - hardest part may be removing the original from the top of the gearbox. If the car has the miles on it may be worth resetting the linkage when installed too, just in case. The 7mm adjustment needed was bang on for my car but others have had to tweak a bit, I imagine as the cables have stretched over time.

Drive select still works for everything as normal. I think most do this but I know Revo have a similar but not quite standard map on Eco and full fat mode on dynamic. You should still be able to adjust everything you can now after a remap, Whether that particular throttle change makes any difference afterwards is anyone's guess - doubt you'd need it after the map anyway as the throttle map changes too.

Hoping to drop a Revo map on mine soon enough

 

[Phazer]

Hey great questions, as I’ve just bought an S1 recently too. Just about to do the same mods that you have. How did you find the Eventuri air intake and Racingline turbo elbow? Hope you don’t mind me asking but where did you get these parts from? And where did you order the 4H- tech short shifter from ?
Cheers

Cheapest place when I bought mine was from their ebay shop https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394037267500 Gone up in price recently though.

There's 10% off at the moment with code 4HTECH10OFF

Suppose it's worth adding that my insurer didn't charge anything extra for the short shifter which was nice lol

 

[ModdingMyS1]

Hey great questions, as I’ve just bought an S1 recently too. Just about to do the same mods that you have. How did you find the Eventuri air intake and Racingline turbo elbow? Hope you don’t mind me asking but where did you get these parts from? And where did you order the 4H- tech short shifter from ?
Cheers

Glad to hear that some fellow new S1 owners are here too!

Don't mind at all - I ordered the Eventuri intake from Awesome GTI and I think they have the shortshifter in stock too but I ordered it tonight from WG motorsports on eBay as I had a discount code to use ha.

There is a definite pleasing audible difference with the intake installed but it's not super loud or dramatic which is what I wanted. I haven't noticed any significant performance changes but it is the only part that I have installed so far out of my list, the others are still in the post unfortunately!

Some notes on the install - this is the first car that I have added aftermarket parts to and the install for the Eventuri was extremely straightforward, it comes with excellent instructions. Just a couple of slightly awkward things - the clips for the red vent scoop - they are extremely tight and I had to open them a little to get them on. The 2 screws for the vent are Torx 25 and the leftmost screw is a little tricky to access but the vent included in the kit has a hole to pass a screwdriver through which makes things easier - I would start with removing the OEM filterbox and vent, then install the scoop, the vent, and finally the cone to make things easier but it's very straight forward and a 20 minute job with the right tools. You also need a tool to remove the OEM clamp from the hose, I used Halfords 'laser hose clip pliers' which were perfect and you need a flathead screwdriver to install the new jubilee clamp that comes with the kit.

Happy to help if I can.

The shifter install is pretty easy, can be done in 15 minutes if you've done it before but still easily done in under an hour - hardest part may be removing the original from the top of the gearbox. If the car has the miles on it may be worth resetting the linkage when installed too, just in case. The 7mm adjustment needed was bang on for my car but others have had to tweak a bit, I imagine as the cables have stretched over time.

Great info thank you, can't wait to get everything installed. Going to hopefully get to most of it this weekend if the postman is quick enough with my deliveries and going to book in for the remap once the mods are in, will post a pic when I am finished!

From reading the forum recommendations I am going to order a flywheel, master cylinder and release bearing with the clutch so that when the slipage time inevitably comes after the remap I can have all fitted at once.

Suppose it's worth adding that my insurer didn't charge anything extra for the short shifter which was nice lol

All of my mods above cost £40 a year to add in total (with Admiral) which I thought was great and the remap will add another £70 which I am happy with too, was expecting it to be much more expensive!

 

[Baz999fire]

Glad to hear that some fellow new S1 owners are here too!

Don't mind at all - I ordered the Eventuri intake from Awesome GTI and I think they have the shortshifter in stock too but I ordered it tonight from WG motorsports on eBay as I had a discount code to use ha.

There is a definite pleasing audible difference with the intake installed but it's not super loud or dramatic which is what I wanted. I haven't noticed any significant performance changes but it is the only part that I have installed so far out of my list, the others are still in the post unfortunately!

Some notes on the install - this is the first car that I have added aftermarket parts to and the install for the Eventuri was extremely straightforward, it comes with excellent instructions. Just a couple of slightly awkward things - the clips for the red vent scoop - they are extremely tight and I had to open them a little to get them on. The 2 screws for the vent are Torx 25 and the leftmost screw is a little tricky to access but the vent included in the kit has a hole to pass a screwdriver through which makes things easier - I would start with removing the OEM filterbox and vent, then install the scoop, the vent, and finally the cone to make things easier but it's very straight forward and a 20 minute job with the right tools. You also need a tool to remove the OEM clamp from the hose, I used Halfords 'laser hose clip pliers' which were perfect and you need a flathead screwdriver to install the new jubilee clamp that comes with the kit.



Great info thank you, can't wait to get everything installed. Going to hopefully get to most of it this weekend if the postman is quick enough with my deliveries and going to book in for the remap once the mods are in, will post a pic when I am finished!

From reading the forum recommendations I am going to order a flywheel, master cylinder and release bearing with the clutch so that when the slipage time inevitably comes after the remap I can have all fitted at once.



All of my mods above cost £40 a year to add in total (with Admiral) which I thought was great and the remap will add another £70 which I am happy with too, was expecting it to be much more expensive!

Many thanks for that. I’m new to Audi’s and turbo charged engines and was a bit unsure what modified parts to go for?
There seems to be several different makes of turbo elbow, GFB and maps - just unsure what ones to go for / are the best for the S1 ?

 

[Baz999fire]

Glad to hear that some fellow new S1 owners are here too!

Don't mind at all - I ordered the Eventuri intake from Awesome GTI and I think they have the shortshifter in stock too but I ordered it tonight from WG motorsports on eBay as I had a discount code to use ha.

There is a definite pleasing audible difference with the intake installed but it's not super loud or dramatic which is what I wanted. I haven't noticed any significant performance changes but it is the only part that I have installed so far out of my list, the others are still in the post unfortunately!

Some notes on the install - this is the first car that I have added aftermarket parts to and the install for the Eventuri was extremely straightforward, it comes with excellent instructions. Just a couple of slightly awkward things - the clips for the red vent scoop - they are extremely tight and I had to open them a little to get them on. The 2 screws for the vent are Torx 25 and the leftmost screw is a little tricky to access but the vent included in the kit has a hole to pass a screwdriver through which makes things easier - I would start with removing the OEM filterbox and vent, then install the scoop, the vent, and finally the cone to make things easier but it's very straight forward and a 20 minute job with the right tools. You also need a tool to remove the OEM clamp from the hose, I used Halfords 'laser hose clip pliers' which were perfect and you need a flathead screwdriver to install the new jubilee clamp that comes with the kit.



Great info thank you, can't wait to get everything installed. Going to hopefully get to most of it this weekend if the postman is quick enough with my deliveries and going to book in for the remap once the mods are in, will post a pic when I am finished!

From reading the forum recommendations I am going to order a flywheel, master cylinder and release bearing with the clutch so that when the slipage time inevitably comes after the remap I can have all fitted at once.



All of my mods above cost £40 a year to add in total (with Admiral) which I thought was great and the remap will add another £70 which I am happy with too, was expecting it to be much more expensive!

Not sure you would need a new clutch master cylinder or flywheel after 40-50k miles - just an updated clutch and release bearing.

 

[ModdingMyS1]

Many thanks for that. I’m new to Audi’s and turbo charged engines and was a bit unsure what modified parts to go for?
There seems to be several different makes of turbo elbow, GFB and maps - just unsure what ones to go for / are the best for the S1 ?

Modding is new to me and this engine is new to me too so just going off research and experiences on the forums and youtube vids but can share my findings for the GFB options (if anyone has any further info or experiences please let me know):

For the GFB options there is the DV+ which is a recirculation valve (same function as OEM if I understood my research correctly) and GFB state a better turbo hold between shifts and a sharper throttle response. The DVX that I purchased has the option to stay in 100% recirculation configuration or has the option to use a slider to switch to vent to atmosphere with any percentage between 0-100 (they call it their 'venting bias adjustment system') for some blow off woosh sounds with volume control, I believe at fully closed setting there is still a small percentage vented to atmosphere via a small slot according to a video on youtube from the bearded mechanics who installed it on an S3 and tested the various settings. I liked the video so taking a chance on trying it. There is also a video on a DVX install on an S1.

I have read a lot of reports that praise the DV+ and some have had it installed for a long time. A local mod shop recommended it too but I have also read a lot of posts from people that uninstalled it later, including reports of issues but not many reviews on the DVX. I believe with both options the piston needs to be oiled as a maintenance task and during install. I am not sure if I will keep this but was interested in the vent to atmosphere feature and option to disable it or keep it subtle. In a video by GFB on youtube it shows that you can calibrate it also via the screw on the front so that the piston is fully closed before the revs settle so that the venting woosh only occurs at higher revs (from my understanding of the video) - I liked that this can be calibrated too.

The turbo elbows seem similar in design between manufacturers so I just went with what was in stock but I did read reports that some hoses are a tight fit with some of the available elbows. I read that some of the manufacturers stated that the OEM intake system is adequate already and doesn't need to be replaced unless you would like more sound so some have uprated the OEM filter itself.

There seem to be a lot of options for remapping - Revo, ABT and APR seem popular in my research but there are many more and some people have custom maps. I am going to go with APR as I have a dealer that is reasonably close to me and they have a 4wd dyno for testing but there seem to be a lot of happy customers with other maps too! I like that the installer is close by for support.

Not sure you would need a new clutch master cylinder or flywheel after 40-50k miles - just an updated clutch and release bearing.

Thanks for the info! I was thinking of replacing all so that it's only 1 trip to the mechanic as it seems a fair amount of hours to install but if the master cylinder and flywheel can last a lot longer then that's great as the flywheel seems pretty expensive. I read some reports of people going with single mass fly wheels but haven't done enough research yet to be informed of the benefits over a dual mass flywheel which I believe the OEM is (still researching now so please take my findings, understanding and all of the above with a full shaker of salt ).

 

[Baz999fire]

Thanks so much for the info Phazer, extremely helpful.

Nice to hear that pops and bangs can be optional with the map - I will ask some questions with the local APR dealer and great to hear that the stock exhaust can be used at stage 1 too. I personally love the sound of the stock exhaust also, especially in dynamic mode with the valve open and agree it can be nice and loud already (and I read on the forum that the value can potentially be set to permenantly open via the OBD port or by disconnecting a cable which is a nice option to have). I park in an underground garage with a low ceiling and it brings a smile to my face driving out each morning as I can't resist a few revs

The car has not been lowered for now so hopefully the CV joints will be ok for this first upgrade cycle but good to know there are options if this proves an issue over time. I was worried as I didn't find much info on fixing this issue.

Thanks for the shifter feedback - just placed an order and am excited! The install looks nice and DIY-able too as the intake is simple to remove to gain access. I will check the shortshifter alone and see if I need further mods to get a feel that I am happy with.

Another couple of quick questions I just thought of - I am not sure how drive select functions with maps. when the car is mapped do I lose the drive select modes or are they all scaled based on the map with economy mode still on softer suspension settings and valve closed etc? Also, I guess a similar question but I have used Carista to set a few options like throttle always 'direct, controlled by threshold'. Would I still be able to adjust parameters via OBD port after map? I am sure that it's possible but just a thought!

I appreciate the info and can't wait to get Stage 1 installed

Modding is new to me and this engine is new to me too so just going off research and experiences on the forums and youtube vids but can share my findings for the GFB options (if anyone has any further info or experiences please let me know):

For the GFB options there is the DV+ which is a recirculation valve (same function as OEM if I understood my research correctly) and GFB state a better turbo hold between shifts and a sharper throttle response. The DVX that I purchased has the option to stay in 100% recirculation configuration or has the option to use a slider to switch to vent to atmosphere with any percentage between 0-100 (they call it their 'venting bias adjustment system') for some blow off woosh sounds with volume control, I believe at fully closed setting there is still a small percentage vented to atmosphere via a small slot according to a video on youtube from the bearded mechanics who installed it on an S3 and tested the various settings. I liked the video so taking a chance on trying it. There is also a video on a DVX install on an S1.

I have read a lot of reports that praise the DV+ and some have had it installed for a long time. A local mod shop recommended it too but I have also read a lot of posts from people that uninstalled it later, including reports of issues but not many reviews on the DVX. I believe with both options the piston needs to be oiled as a maintenance task and during install. I am not sure if I will keep this but was interested in the vent to atmosphere feature and option to disable it or keep it subtle. In a video by GFB on youtube it shows that you can calibrate it also via the screw on the front so that the piston is fully closed before the revs settle so that the venting woosh only occurs at higher revs (from my understanding of the video) - I liked that this can be calibrated too.

The turbo elbows seem similar in design between manufacturers so I just went with what was in stock but I did read reports that some hoses are a tight fit with some of the available elbows. I read that some of the manufacturers stated that the OEM intake system is adequate already and doesn't need to be replaced unless you would like more sound so some have uprated the OEM filter itself.

There seem to be a lot of options for remapping - Revo, ABT and APR seem popular in my research but there are many more and some people have custom maps. I am going to go with APR as I have a dealer that is reasonably close to me and they have a 4wd dyno for testing but there seem to be a lot of happy customers with other maps too! I like that the installer is close by for support.



Thanks for the info! I was thinking of replacing all so that it's only 1 trip to the mechanic as it seems a fair amount of hours to install but if the master cylinder and flywheel can last a lot longer then that's great as the flywheel seems pretty expensive. I read some reports of people going with single mass fly wheels but haven't done enough research yet to be informed of the benefits over a dual mass flywheel which I believe the OEM is (still researching now so please take my findings, understanding and all of the above with a full shaker of salt ).

Many thanks for sharing your information. Going to order the 4H-tech short shifter tomorrow morning. And then do a bit of reading around the GFB valve and lowering springs. Might go for the ABt springs as they drop the car 30mm all round. My S1 is my daily too, so don’t want a full on race/track car, just a little upgrade from stock.
Let us know how you get on when you got these parts
Many thanks

 

[ModdingMyS1]

Quick update:

Installed the GFB DVX today but haven't had a chance to play with it yet, you need a right angled hex key to adjust the spring pre-load after install with the stock elbow (might be easier with an aftermarket) so going to get one now and calibrate. GFB have a nice video on youtube explaining the process.

My turbo elbow also arrived but I had somehow missed the info that the stock PCV hose is not long enough to reach the aftermarket turbo elbows (d'oh!). It was easy to install up to the point at which I realized this and reinstallation of the original was simple too. CLP automotive have a 'Genuine Golf R Breather Hose' which mentions allowing the installation of aftermarket elbows to the S1 so will hold off on install of the elbow and hose until this arrives. Some kits seem to include the extended PCV hose with the elbow and silicone hose so probably the best option if you haven't made a purchase yet. Changing the PCV hose looks like a little more effort that the drop in replacement of the elbow that I was hoping for but the videos on youtube make it look DIY-able if you are careful.

Hopefully the shortshifter will arrive before the weekend so that I can get that installed next.

Edit: there is also an 'ECS tuning upgraded PCV hose' kit for EA888 2.0 TFS1 Gen 3 engines with an install video on youtube. The parts look to be high quality and it should eliminate the tricky clip on PCV hose end of the stock part for easier maintainance later. Has anyone installed this on their S1? It looks great!

 

[ModdingMyS1]

Short shifter installed, quick and easy and feels fantastic. Feels a little heavier and the throw improvement is just what i was hoping for. Going to order the solid bushings kit to make things even tighter, great mod.

 

[Baz999fire]

Short shifter installed, quick and easy and feels fantastic. Feels a little heavier and the throw improvement is just what i was hoping for. Going to order the solid bushings kit to make things even tighter, great mod.

Hey - nice one. I ordered mine yesterday so hoping to receive it in the next few days. My S1 has only got 4K miles on the clock so hoping it doesn’t need the solid bushes. Was going to give Litchfield a call on Monday to see what they can do for the power increase.

 

[ModdingMyS1]

Hey - nice one. I ordered mine yesterday so hoping to receive it in the next few days. My S1 has only got 4K miles on the clock so hoping it doesn’t need the solid bushes. Was going to give Litchfield a call on Monday to see what they can do for the power increase.

The only thing that is missing from the instructions is that there is a long washer for the circular linkage bare metal section of the new shifter that needs to be taken from the old shifter. Make sure to install this in the step before fixing the e-clip that comes with the kit or you will need to remove the e-clip and insert the washer which is a fiddly task (I may or may not have made this mistake ). Other than that it's well documented in the install instructions.

Went for a long drive today and it makes such a difference to the driving experience. It takes a little more effort to change gears, feels a little heavier, is much shorter and satisfyingly notchy in the best possible sense and by the end of the drive I was used to the new feel and delighted with the mod and felt that my gear changes were a little more efficicent. It would be very easy to re-install the original shifter if you didn't like it but I doubt you will want to! Such a huge improvement to the driving experience for the price.

The bushings in my linkages at 45k look great with no visual issues, but being rubber there is play (not excessively so). I am going to try the solid bushings to see how much of a difference they make but I am already happy with the feel with just the short shifter installed so they may not be necessary.

Going to order the extended PCV hose for the elbow install this week and that will be next weekend's install, then stage 1 up next some time in May!

Let me know if you make any progress on your upgrade plans with Litchfield, I am sure you will love the new additions you are planning.

Cheers

 

[Baz999fire]

The only thing that is missing from the instructions is that there is a long washer for the circular linkage bare metal section of the new shifter that needs to be taken from the old shifter. Make sure to install this in the step before fixing the e-clip that comes with the kit or you will need to remove the e-clip and insert the washer which is a fiddly task (I may or may not have made this mistake ). Other than that it's well documented in the install instructions.

Went for a long drive today and it makes such a difference to the driving experience. It takes a little more effort to change gears, feels a little heavier, is much shorter and satisfyingly notchy in the best possible sense and by the end of the drive I was used to the new feel and delighted with the mod and felt that my gear changes were a little more efficicent. It would be very easy to re-install the original shifter if you didn't like it but I doubt you will want to! Such a huge improvement to the driving experience for the price.

The bushings in my linkages at 45k look great with no visual issues, but being rubber there is play (not excessively so). I am going to try the solid bushings to see how much of a difference they make but I am already happy with the feel with just the short shifter installed so they may not be necessary.

Going to order the extended PCV hose for the elbow install this week and that will be next weekend's install, then stage 1 up next some time in May!

Let me know if you make any progress on your upgrade plans with Litchfield, I am sure you will love the new additions you are planning.

Cheers

Hey many thanks for the info.
I’ll let you know when I hear back from Litchfield. Was considering an ABt remap but they want £1500 , which is why I contacted Litchfield. The S1 is my nippy daily so only want about 300bhp or so. I need to keep its normal drivability just with extra power.
Let us know how you get on with you other mods next week.
Many thanks

 

[Phazer]

Hey many thanks for the info.
I’ll let you know when I hear back from Litchfield. Was considering an ABt remap but they want £1500 , which is why I contacted Litchfield. The S1 is my nippy daily so only want about 300bhp or so. I need to keep its normal drivability just with extra power.
Let us know how you get on with you other mods next week.
Many thanks

The Abt "Remap" is actually a piggy back ECU, no benefit over a flash map in the UK. On the continent they offer engine warranty which would be well worthwhile but it's not offered here and no reduction in price!

 

[ModdingMyS1]

Hey many thanks for the info.
I’ll let you know when I hear back from Litchfield. Was considering an ABt remap but they want £1500 , which is why I contacted Litchfield. The S1 is my nippy daily so only want about 300bhp or so. I need to keep its normal drivability just with extra power.
Let us know how you get on with you other mods next week.
Many thanks

I think APR's remap for stage 1 is £663 from what I could find on their website. I haven't had a chat with the local dealer yet though. I have the same goals of around 300bhp (as a first step we all know how this story goes) and the APR website states 302HP and 323 FT-LBS with 98RON or 290/312 with 95 which seems a significant but not over the top improvement to start with.

If I choose to go stage 2 later do I pay full price again for the new map I wonder?

 

[Baz999fire]

The Abt "Remap" is actually a piggy back ECU, no benefit over a flash map in the UK. On the continent they offer engine warranty which would be well worthwhile but it's not offered here and no reduction in price!

The Abt "Remap" is actually a piggy back ECU, no benefit over a flash map in the UK. On the continent they offer engine warranty which would be well worthwhile but it's not offered here and no reduction in price!

Many thanks for the info.
I didn’t realise that about ABt’s warranty issue ! They state that their remap is about 310bhp, but I suppose all the stage 1 remaps must be roughly the same give or take 10bhp for different rolling roads & conditions etc.
Just had a reply from Litchfield who can carry out a stage 1 remap for £600 inc. vat. and gives 290bhp.
My problem is that there are about 4 to 5 reputable companies that do remaps but I just don’t know which one to go for ???
APR & REVO seem to have franchise garages all over and I’ve never really heard of them so don’t know what their reputation is like . . . think I’m edging towards Litchfield now.

 

[Baz999fire]

The Abt "Remap" is actually a piggy back ECU, no benefit over a flash map in the UK. On the continent they offer engine warranty which would be well worthwhile but it's not offered here and no reduction in price!

Do you happen to what what ABt’s lowering springs are like ? Only they lower the car by 30mm all round, whereas H&R lower by 25mm . . . think I may have been a bit influenced by Mr. JWW’s YouTube S1 ABt video.

 

[Phazer]

Do you happen to what what ABt’s lowering springs are like ? Only they lower the car by 30mm all round, whereas H&R lower by 25mm . . . think I may have been a bit influenced by Mr. JWW’s YouTube S1 ABt video.

haha, that's where I started when the S1 was on the way! Best I can gather is the Abt are made by eibach and are suited to nice German roads. I had a chat with someone who had them and they said it was a bit bouncy but it's all subjective. Never driven one with them myself.

 

[Phazer]

Many thanks for the info.
I didn’t realise that about ABt’s warranty issue ! They state that their remap is about 310bhp, but I suppose all the stage 1 remaps must be roughly the same give or take 10bhp for different rolling roads & conditions etc.
Just had a reply from Litchfield who can carry out a stage 1 remap for £600 inc. vat. and gives 290bhp.
My problem is that there are about 4 to 5 reputable companies that do remaps but I just don’t know which one to go for ???
APR & REVO seem to have franchise garages all over and I’ve never really heard of them so don’t know what their reputation is like . . . think I’m edging towards Litchfield now.

I'm going Revo when I get to it. They had a development S1 for a long time so it's map that's had some proper work and real world driving input to it.

When I asked they also confirmed it was like OEM but better (graphs bear this out too, similar but smoother curves and obs higher output) which suits me as I like the way the car drives now and wouldn't want to change the characteristics too much.

Don't know anything about Lichfield tbh (with regard to Audi anyway) but all stage 1 maps make about 290-310ish depending on the car/fuel etc

 

[Baz999fire]

I'm going Revo when I get to it. They had a development S1 for a long time so it's map that's had some proper work and real world driving input to it.

When I asked they also confirmed it was like OEM but better (graphs bear this out too, similar but smoother curves and obs higher output) which suits me as I like the way the car drives now and wouldn't want to change the characteristics too much.

Don't know anything about Lichfield tbh (with regard to Audi anyway) but all stage 1 maps make about 290-310ish depending on the car/fuel etc

Hi Phazer,
Many thanks for the info.
You’ve got me thinking big time now.
Maybe I should save some ££££ and just go Revo remap & H&R lowering springs.
Need to find a trustworthy and decent Revo installer now somewhere in the South East which specialises in Audi ??
This is half my problem really as I’ve been a BMW man for 20 years and got no experience with Audi’s & garages.
Many thanks for your help - it’s much appreciated

 

[ModdingMyS1]

Some info on the bushings install:

Installed the 034Motorsport solid bushings kit yesterday. I found it easiest to remove the linkage cable ends to fit outside of the engine as the tolerance is tight on the forward/back rectangular bushing. There is an issue with the side to side circular bushing when paired with the 4h-Tech shortshifter - there isn't enough space to reattach the clip to hold it in place. There is enough space on the original part but not on this specific shortshifter. I had to sand a couple of millimeters off to make it fit.

I didn't have the correct pin to lock the shifter during install so to calibrate I played around for a bit to find a nice setting when reattaching the cable ends. A notch or 2 is plenty at a time to adjust. I have ordered the lock pin and will calibrate properly when it arrives but for now I am happy.

I am not sure how much of a difference the bushings have made because I adjusted the linkage slack significantly. I found a great setting which made everything super tight but the gearstick was sitting too far towards the handbrake. After adjusting I now have the gear stick sitting in a normal position with the smallest amount of slack. Wish I would have adjusted the linkages before installing the bushings to get a better idea of the bushing's impact on feel but happy with the shifts now, they feel clean and precise. Going to recalibrate with the correct tool to see if it improves things further.

 

[Baz999fire]

Some info on the bushings install:

Installed the 034Motorsport solid bushings kit yesterday. I found it easiest to remove the linkage cable ends to fit outside of the engine as the tolerance is tight on the forward/back rectangular bushing. There is an issue with the side to side circular bushing when paired with the 4h-Tech shortshifter - there isn't enough space to reattach the clip to hold it in place. There is enough space on the original part but not on this specific shortshifter. I had to sand a couple of millimeters off to make it fit.

I didn't have the correct pin to lock the shifter during install so to calibrate I played around for a bit to find a nice setting when reattaching the cable ends. A notch or 2 is plenty at a time to adjust. I have ordered the lock pin and will calibrate properly when it arrives but for now I am happy.

I am not sure how much of a difference the bushings have made because I adjusted the linkage slack significantly. I found a great setting which made everything super tight but the gearstick was sitting too far towards the handbrake. After adjusting I now have the gear stick sitting in a normal position with the smallest amount of slack. Wish I would have adjusted the linkages before installing the bushings to get a better idea of the bushing's impact on feel but happy with the shifts now, they feel clean and precise. Going to recalibrate with the correct tool to see if it improves things further.

Hey that sounds a lot of adjustment? Do you think the bushings have made a difference? My 4H-tech short shift kit arrived so will have a go at fitting it over the weekend. I’m lucky as the S1 that I’ve recently purchased on had 3k miles on it, so hoping all the bushes etc are all ok.

 

[ModdingMyS1]

Hey that sounds a lot of adjustment? Do you think the bushings have made a difference? My 4H-tech short shift kit arrived so will have a go at fitting it over the weekend. I’m lucky as the S1 that I’ve recently purchased on had 3k miles on it, so hoping all the bushes etc are all ok.

I think the only adjustment required for the shortshifter is a 7mm movement in the forward/back linkage (which is detailed in the install instructions and Phazer mentioned above).

The rubber bushings were still perfect at 45k so there should be no problem there.

As I say I am not sure how much of a difference the bushings made on their own as I took some time to test different slack settings in the linkages while installing the bushings so not sure which made the most difference but I am very happy with the result.

I had the shortshifter on its own for a week before installing the solid bushings and it was a major upgrade in my opinion. Be careful with the little circular spring clips on the bushings when installing, they can shoot off so take your time with them!

Next up for me, I have a silicon elbow and an extended breather hose here so just waiting on the turbo elbow arriving and I think that will be it for now before stage 1

 

[Baz999fire]

I think the only adjustment required for the shortshifter is a 7mm movement in the forward/back linkage (which is detailed in the install instructions and Phazer mentioned above).

The rubber bushings were still perfect at 45k so there should be no problem there.

As I say I am not sure how much of a difference the bushings made on their own as I took some time to test different slack settings in the linkages while installing the bushings so not sure which made the most difference but I am very happy with the result.

I had the shortshifter on its own for a week before installing the solid bushings and it was a major upgrade in my opinion. Be careful with the little circular spring clips on the bushings when installing, they can shoot off so take your time with them!

Next up for me, I have a silicon elbow and an extended breather hose here so just waiting on the turbo elbow arriving and I think that will be it for now before stage 1

Nice one. Let us know how the elbow instal goes. I’m still debating which remap to go for. Can’t really find a tuning company for APR or Revo that deal with Audi in the South East.