Help - P3103 V157 - Motor Intake Manifold Flap - EGR Valve...How do i solve?

mike foster

Fossie
VCDS Map User
Sorry - my mistake. If it was 10 amp in the first place then that's fine but please bear in mind that you should never replace a fuse with one of larger capacity. You can use a smaller one but never a larger one !!

Good luck and let us all know the outcome please
 

owenjt

Registered User
Can anyone confirm whether it's still ok to drive your car if your inlet manifold motor needs replacing?

My emissions light came on today and the symptoms suggest the motor or flaps. I'm getting it diagnosed tomorrow but I need to drive to Hertfordshire on Monday (roughly 250 mile round trip) so if it is the motor I won't be able to get it replaced in time. Don't want to be driving if there is a risk of breaking down/further damage.
 

owenjt

Registered User
Can anyone confirm whether it's still ok to drive your car if your inlet manifold motor needs replacing?

My emissions light came on today and the symptoms suggest the motor or flaps. I'm getting it diagnosed tomorrow but I need to drive to Hertfordshire on Monday (roughly 250 mile round trip) so if it is the motor I won't be able to get it replaced in time. Don't want to be driving if there is a risk of breaking down/further damage.
Well I got this checked out this morning, diagnostics say:

19557 - Motor for intake Manifold Flap (V157) Open or Short to Ground P3101

17075 - Fan 1 Control Circuit Short to GND P0691

19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157) No Signal P3102

Replaced the blown fuse and the flap motor started up, not making very good noises though. The engine management light has gone out but it's still not happy.

Think it's time to repace the motor. TPS quoted me £270! Still need to drive to Hertfordshire though so hoping it's ok.
 

owenjt

Registered User
Crazy how prices can vary from one place to another, Audi quoted £335.69 whereas GSF are only £234! Think i'm going to have to risk driving it as I really don't have the time to get the part and fit it. Seems to be running ok at the moment.
 

Chris-P

Audi A3 8P Owner 2011-2019
Try euro car parts they seem to be good on price:)
 

Ason

Registered User
Hey, im new here and must say thanks for al tips,
I have a VW Touran TDI -04

I have a new Manifold flap home now,
And when i connect the elctrical connection to it and turn ignition on it starts to sounds like the old one "brrrr"
and it starts to move little close/open,
So i think that i have other problems,
any one that know how the electrical connects is
1 - 0VDC
2 - 12VDC
3
4

what i think it should be power on pin 1-2, and what should be on 3-4 is that feedback or a setpoint from the control unit?
 

joshxs

Registered User
I have two failed flaps and the problem in both of them is the DC motor and two of the 4 MOSFET transistors. I already replaced the transistors and the circuit runs fine. Now I am looking for a replacement DC motor.


How did you get the circuit board out of the throttle body? I can't seem to get it out!

Cheers
 

Ason

Registered User
Hey, im new here and must say thanks for al tips,
I have a VW Touran TDI -04

I have a new Manifold flap home now,
And when i connect the elctrical connection to it and turn ignition on it starts to sounds like the old one "brrrr"
and it starts to move little close/open,
So i think that i have other problems,
any one that know how the electrical connects is
1 - 0VDC
2 - 12VDC
3
4

what i think it should be power on pin 1-2, and what should be on 3-4 is that feedback or a setpoint from the control unit?


I didnt have any other problem, after i switch the maifold flap and did some output tests and reset the error codes everything worked as it should.
Thanks for this thread!
 

markj1974

Registered User
Hi, I had the emission control system light (engine management light) come on about 2 months ago, had someone run a scan and it came up intake manifold flap !!!! Got a new one (£360) from cardiff audi, replaced and still on !!! noticed the fuse had blown (f8) replaced the fuse and still stayed on !!!! had another scan and was now coming up air mass sensor-signal too low !!! bought a neww maf (air mass meter ) from GSF and replaced myself and was hoping that the light would go off. No chance, had him out to run a scan again and showed no faults apart from gearbox shift solanoid, light went out, switched off the engine and restarted and light was still out, my mechanic left and started up the car and the ****** lights back on !!!!! WTF Any info, doing my ******* head in, cost me a fortune and the ****** light aint shifting !!
 

Ason

Registered User
Hi, I had the emission control system light (engine management light) come on about 2 months ago, had someone run a scan and it came up intake manifold flap !!!! Got a new one (£360) from cardiff audi, replaced and still on !!! noticed the fuse had blown (f8) replaced the fuse and still stayed on !!!! had another scan and was now coming up air mass sensor-signal too low !!! bought a neww maf (air mass meter ) from GSF and replaced myself and was hoping that the light would go off. No chance, had him out to run a scan again and showed no faults apart from gearbox shift solanoid, light went out, switched off the engine and restarted and light was still out, my mechanic left and started up the car and the ****** lights back on !!!!! WTF Any info, doing my ******* head in, cost me a fortune and the ****** light aint shifting !!

When I
replaced my manifold flap, I needed to make output test with VCDSa few timesbefore I could reset the fault codes.
 

bigalaudi

Registered User
Right..sun was shining and went EuroCP. They ripped me off and charged me �205 but didn't care as i had to get the part in today as otherwise, I'd never do it.

Firstly i disconnected the battery....

The part to change:
DSC00473.JPG


Got the part:
minfbp.jpg


Got the part off. Three screws and the hose clip. Also removed the air intake for the air filter and undid the oil dipstick to get better access. To get to the third screw at the back of the IMF, i had to get my aunt to hold down the thick pipe so i could undo it...

2lk8bwn.jpg



Here's the Old Part (really dirty considering a cleaned it a few weeks ago!):
23h524g.jpg


Got the New part in (it came with the rubber seals so didn't have to buy anthing else...thats one of the reasosn i left the EGR valve in as i didn;t want to waste precious pennies on seals! (Im starting Uni Next month!)

There's a seal on the thick black pipe, i changed this when i cleaned it out so didn't see the point of changing it again (�3.30 from Audi - whata rip!).

The thick pipe just pushes in. You line up the bits that stick out and push it in and then clip it into position. On my part, the clip doesn't come out but pulls about a cm and then you push it back in when the seals in place.
lck0h.jpg




Changed the F8 Fuse (The red one behind the big relay thing that says 458) - 10amp: (also connected the battery after changing the fuse)
30upr3r.jpg


Put all the other bits back on....Took it for a whiz and all the lights went off that came up when i put the battery back on (traction control, steering etc.) went off

Came back and Vagcomed it.
The Fault codes still came up:

3 Faults Found:
19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): No Signal
P3102 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.46 V
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Torque: 92.0 Nm
19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Open or Short to Ground
P3101 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.46 V
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Torque: 92.0 Nm
17075 - Fan 1 Control Circuit: Short to GND
P0691 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.46 V
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Temperature: 90.0�C
Duty Cycle: 9.6 %

ERASED DTC'S AND THEN....SEEE FOR YOURSELF :D

Friday,22,August,2008,20:02:49
VAG-COM Version: Release 607.3-UD
Chassis Type: 8P - Audi A3
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 18 19 22 25 36 37 42 44 46 47 52
55 56 57 62 69 72 76 77 7D

VIN Number: WAUZ-------------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine
Part No SW: 03G 906 016 DT HW: 028 101 189 2
Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000AG 5878
Coding: 0000078
Shop #: WSC 06314
No fault code found.
Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans
Part No SW: 02E 300 041 N HW: 02E 927 770 AD
Component: GSG DSG 041 0813
Coding: 0000020
Shop #: WSC 06314
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes
Part No: 1K0 907 379 K
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0104
Coding: 0023174
Shop #: WSC 06435
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC
Part No SW: 8P0 820 043 D HW: 8P0 820 043 D
Component: KlimavollautomatH12 0150
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect.
Part No SW: 8P0 907 279 A HW: 8P0 907 279 A*
Component: Bordnetz-SG 1.0 H30 0000
Coding: 01884F00A2141000000000000000000000
Shop #: WSC 00000
Part No: 8P2 955 119 B
Component: Wischer AU350 H01 0130
Coding: 00062736
Shop #: WSC 00000
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags
Part No SW: 8P0 959 655 D HW: 8P0 959 655 D
Component: Airbag 8.4ED H00 0140
Coding: 0011602
Shop #: WSC 06314
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel
Part No SW: 8P0 953 549 HW: 8P0 953 549
Component: Lenks�ulenmodul H11 0020
Coding: 0011142
Shop #: WSC 06314
Part No: XXXXXXXXXXX
Component: Lenkradmodul H03 0040
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments
Part No SW: 8P0 920 980 P HW: 8P0 920 980 P
Component: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H71 0210
Coding: 0000408
Shop #: WSC 00012
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway
Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 D HW: 1K0 907 951
Component: Gateway H08 0100
Coding: 3F0F0B42070101
Shop #: WSC 06314
1 Fault Found:
01304 - Radio
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 16
Reset counter: 65
Mileage: 95270 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2008.08.21
Time: 01:51:55

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 25: Immobilizer
Part No SW: 8P0 920 980 P HW: 8P0 920 980 P
Component: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H71 0210
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 42: Door Elect, Driver
Part No: 8P0 959 801 E
Component: Tuersteuerger. H10 0030
Coding: 0000048
Shop #: WSC 06314
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 44: Steering Assist
Part No: 1K2 909 144 G
Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl.10 1301
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.
Part No: 8P0 959 433
Component: KSG H02 0040
Coding: 008000186D288505489AC63000
Shop #: WSC 06314
Part No: 1K0 951 605 C
Component: LIN BACKUP HORN H02 1301
Part No: 1K0 907 719
Component: Neigungssensor 003 0003
Part No: 8P0 951 177
Component: Innenraumueberw.H03 0010
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 47: Sound System
Part No SW: 8P3 035 382 HW: 8P3 035 382
Component: AB2 SUBWOOFERBOXH25 0160
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass.
Part No: 8P0 959 802 E
Component: Tuersteuerger. H10 0030
Coding: 0000048
Shop #: WSC 06314
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 7D: Aux. Heat
Part No SW: 1K0 963 235 E HW: 1K0 963 235 E
Component: PTC-Element 0404
No fault code found.
End --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bingo :p

Sall sorted out and as for the radio fault code, thats there because i got my aftermarket Alpine in it!

There was also the bulb in the boot which had blown so changed that too..That fault registered on VAGCOM too but once bulb changed and code erased..taht was gone too..

My cars running sweet again with no yellow engine management light (MA). No rough idleing and the turbo sounds different (like its getting more air through it - healthier basically)

I'm a happy laddy again :D

A Big Thanks to everyone who helped me out on this one! (helping finding the prob, the part, the TSBs, etc.) Thanks guys and you know who you are and seriously guys, i really appreciate it :D
Hi, absolutley fantastic thread. My wifes A3 tdi had all the faults mentioned here , Engine warning light , F8 fuse blown , Econ light coming on . I read this post and went straight ahead and ordered a IMF from eurocarparts (£196.80) which arrived next day . My mechanic had scaned and the obvious codes reafirmed what you have already posted. After changing IMF engine warning light stayed on for a couple of miles then after switching off engine and back on again , NO MORE WARNING LIGHTS . A big thank you for an excellent diagnostics , well done .KAZ219
 

Ionut Oancea

Registered User
Hi guys,
I've had the same problem with the engine light, blew fuse and I decided to order a new IMF from ebay.de with 180 euro. (new one Pierburg). Today I've change it, but the check engine light is still on. Unfortunately I don't have a vag com cable to erase my errors. It s a way to erases it without a cable?
 

Ionut Oancea

Registered User
Hi guys,
I've had the same problem with the engine light, blew fuse and I decided to order a new IMF from ebay.de with 180 euro. (new one Pierburg). Today I've change it, but the check engine light is still on. Unfortunately I don't have a vag com cable to erase my errors. It s a way to erases it without a cable?
Problem solved, after I unplug the battery for 2 hours and plug it again, start the engine the light goes off. Thanks a lot for this great tutorial.
 

Flyingpoo

2005 2.0ltr tdi s/b sport
First ever post on asn, so be gentle!

Having the same problem fault code (v157) 19559 motor for intake manifold flap malfunction p3103 intermittent. Occasionally getting orange emission control system light up. So just ordered part from europarts.com list price £196.80

Reason for post is to make all members aware that europarts nearly always have discounts codes available, just goggle them and put them in the gift code/promo code box and it will recalculate new price. I just got 31% off the motor intake flap now £135.79 and purchased Castrol edge 5w/30 4 litres at £26.61. Promo code bigdeal31 but it finishes midnight tomorrow!!
Fantastic write up! great thread and great forum.
 

Reaps

Registered User
Hi all,

To diagnose this myself, I have vcds lite and a cable, but I keep getting errors saying 'Controller not found'.

I've been able to scan and get an EGR: insufficient flow detected and I've cleared that, but can't do much else.

I can only scan the engine codes.

Can someone link me to the correct cable via ebay that you already have?
Also, are you using the paid version of VCDS or Lite?

Nice day as it is today, I'm happy to spend the time to get rid of my errors!
Cheers,
Mark
 

MDA

sploorer
hello
just to say thanks for such a helpful thread
im no longer an audi owner but a VW golf 140 tdi owner
who had the same problems
new IMF and it was all sorted mine had also blown the fuse cleared the codes and its run great since
 

Delhibelly

Registered User
I have two failed flaps and the problem in both of them is the DC motor and two of the 4 MOSFET transistors. I already replaced the transistors and the circuit runs fine. Now I am looking for a replacement DC motor.


Hi,I see the same questions asked again & again so a bit of information for everyone:
The ASV or IMF only closes momentarily when you switch off the engine to stop the shudder. Doesn't move at all during general motoring.When it jams-up usually blows the 10A fuse in the engine compartment throwing-up the fan control circuit fault.
It is full of oil - do not drain it!
You may drive a vehicle with this 'problem' without any issues, but be aware that if any further faults develop how will you know if your engine management light is already on?

My question for 3dfx or anyone that has the answer - connection pinout...I need to know which pin is 12v, gnd & feedback circuit & can the feedback be tested off the vehicle? I have two of these that were replaced but still operate on the vehicle but throw a fault, so I assume the feedback circuit is faulty.
Thanks in advance!:yes:
 

stranex

Registered User
Great thread!

Got error code 19559 and was quoted over £400 for fitted part. After reading here I popped into ECP and got new IMF unit for £165 after an inital quote of £198...well happy!

Before I attempt to change the old unit out there has been some talk here of new gaskets and seals presumably between the ECR and IMF and then for the pipe on the other end of the IMF? Can anybody please clarify if these are required as if so, have the relevant part numbers (I've a Golf V 2.0 GT)? The Pierburg unit has a rubber gasket on the EGR end and a circlip on the other but I'm keen to know if I need anything else?
 
Hi All, Thanks to all that’s contributed. I too am kicking myself as I managed to break my IMF by cleaning it!
I was considering blocking the EGR for gain of MPG but after this experience I think I will leave well alone.

Picking new one up from ECP for a bargain 136 plus vat with Trade discount. TPS were 296 plus VAT!!!!! That’s for the M part number too. I haven’t had the old one apart again but it sounds like it’s a broken teeth issue.Hi All, Thanks to all that’s contributed. I too am kicking myself as I managed to break my IMF by cleaning it!
I was considering blocking the EGR for gain of MPG.

Picking new one up from ECP for a bargain 136 plus vat with Trade discount. TPS were 296 plus VAT!!!!! That’s for the M part number too. I haven’t had the old one apart again but it sounds like it’s a broken teeth issue. Peice of swiss cheese cr@p!
 

dawudbhai

Registered User
Right..sun was shining and went EuroCP. They ripped me off and charged me �205 but didn't care as i had to get the part in today as otherwise, I'd never do it.

Firstly i disconnected the battery....

The part to change:
DSC00473.JPG


Got the part:
minfbp.jpg


Got the part off. Three screws and the hose clip. Also removed the air intake for the air filter and undid the oil dipstick to get better access. To get to the third screw at the back of the IMF, i had to get my aunt to hold down the thick pipe so i could undo it...

2lk8bwn.jpg



Here's the Old Part (really dirty considering a cleaned it a few weeks ago!):
23h524g.jpg


Got the New part in (it came with the rubber seals so didn't have to buy anthing else...thats one of the reasosn i left the EGR valve in as i didn;t want to waste precious pennies on seals! (Im starting Uni Next month!)

There's a seal on the thick black pipe, i changed this when i cleaned it out so didn't see the point of changing it again (�3.30 from Audi - whata rip!).

The thick pipe just pushes in. You line up the bits that stick out and push it in and then clip it into position. On my part, the clip doesn't come out but pulls about a cm and then you push it back in when the seals in place.
lck0h.jpg




Changed the F8 Fuse (The red one behind the big relay thing that says 458) - 10amp: (also connected the battery after changing the fuse)
30upr3r.jpg


Put all the other bits back on....Took it for a whiz and all the lights went off that came up when i put the battery back on (traction control, steering etc.) went off

Came back and Vagcomed it.
The Fault codes still came up:

3 Faults Found:
19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): No Signal
P3102 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.46 V
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Torque: 92.0 Nm
19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Open or Short to Ground
P3101 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.46 V
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Torque: 92.0 Nm
17075 - Fan 1 Control Circuit: Short to GND
P0691 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.46 V
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Temperature: 90.0�C
Duty Cycle: 9.6 %

ERASED DTC'S AND THEN....SEEE FOR YOURSELF :D

Friday,22,August,2008,20:02:49
VAG-COM Version: Release 607.3-UD
Chassis Type: 8P - Audi A3
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 18 19 22 25 36 37 42 44 46 47 52
55 56 57 62 69 72 76 77 7D

VIN Number: WAUZ-------------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine
Part No SW: 03G 906 016 DT HW: 028 101 189 2
Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000AG 5878
Coding: 0000078
Shop #: WSC 06314
No fault code found.
Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans
Part No SW: 02E 300 041 N HW: 02E 927 770 AD
Component: GSG DSG 041 0813
Coding: 0000020
Shop #: WSC 06314
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes
Part No: 1K0 907 379 K
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0104
Coding: 0023174
Shop #: WSC 06435
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC
Part No SW: 8P0 820 043 D HW: 8P0 820 043 D
Component: KlimavollautomatH12 0150
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect.
Part No SW: 8P0 907 279 A HW: 8P0 907 279 A*
Component: Bordnetz-SG 1.0 H30 0000
Coding: 01884F00A2141000000000000000000000
Shop #: WSC 00000
Part No: 8P2 955 119 B
Component: Wischer AU350 H01 0130
Coding: 00062736
Shop #: WSC 00000
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags
Part No SW: 8P0 959 655 D HW: 8P0 959 655 D
Component: Airbag 8.4ED H00 0140
Coding: 0011602
Shop #: WSC 06314
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel
Part No SW: 8P0 953 549 HW: 8P0 953 549
Component: Lenks�ulenmodul H11 0020
Coding: 0011142
Shop #: WSC 06314
Part No: XXXXXXXXXXX
Component: Lenkradmodul H03 0040
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments
Part No SW: 8P0 920 980 P HW: 8P0 920 980 P
Component: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H71 0210
Coding: 0000408
Shop #: WSC 00012
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway
Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 D HW: 1K0 907 951
Component: Gateway H08 0100
Coding: 3F0F0B42070101
Shop #: WSC 06314
1 Fault Found:
01304 - Radio
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 16
Reset counter: 65
Mileage: 95270 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2008.08.21
Time: 01:51:55

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 25: Immobilizer
Part No SW: 8P0 920 980 P HW: 8P0 920 980 P
Component: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H71 0210
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 42: Door Elect, Driver
Part No: 8P0 959 801 E
Component: Tuersteuerger. H10 0030
Coding: 0000048
Shop #: WSC 06314
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 44: Steering Assist
Part No: 1K2 909 144 G
Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl.10 1301
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.
Part No: 8P0 959 433
Component: KSG H02 0040
Coding: 008000186D288505489AC63000
Shop #: WSC 06314
Part No: 1K0 951 605 C
Component: LIN BACKUP HORN H02 1301
Part No: 1K0 907 719
Component: Neigungssensor 003 0003
Part No: 8P0 951 177
Component: Innenraumueberw.H03 0010
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 47: Sound System
Part No SW: 8P3 035 382 HW: 8P3 035 382
Component: AB2 SUBWOOFERBOXH25 0160
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass.
Part No: 8P0 959 802 E
Component: Tuersteuerger. H10 0030
Coding: 0000048
Shop #: WSC 06314
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 7D: Aux. Heat
Part No SW: 1K0 963 235 E HW: 1K0 963 235 E
Component: PTC-Element 0404
No fault code found.
End --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bingo :p

Sall sorted out and as for the radio fault code, thats there because i got my aftermarket Alpine in it!

There was also the bulb in the boot which had blown so changed that too..That fault registered on VAGCOM too but once bulb changed and code erased..taht was gone too..

My cars running sweet again with no yellow engine management light (MA). No rough idleing and the turbo sounds different (like its getting more air through it - healthier basically)

I'm a happy laddy again :D

A Big Thanks to everyone who helped me out on this one! (helping finding the prob, the part, the TSBs, etc.) Thanks guys and you know who you are and seriously guys, i really appreciate it :D

Hi how did you remove the 3 screws on the imf? whats the best tool for the job?
is there any point cleaning the egr valve as well and then replace the imf with a new one?
 

Eliminateur

Registered User
Excellent EXCELLENT thread, and it has compelled me to register to reply...

Since i need to take out the ASV AND the EGR valve(to clean/inspect, i suspect much gunk is involved) i have some questions:

1) what's the step-by-step procedure to remove both pieces from the car?, does the EGR pipe bends out of the way or stays in place and just removing the screws is enough?
2) i assume i'll need the EGR gasket and the seals/gaskets for the valves-body-to-manifold?, do anyone knows the part numbers?
3)3dfx i'm interested in the part about the DC board problem, do you have schematics or photos?
4) what's the pinout for the connector?, if there's control circuitry inside it could be useful to troubleshoot outside the car
5) is a 5mm Allen wrench all that's needed?

regards
 

Eliminateur

Registered User
Also, the third screw -the one on the back- in my car it's a super-long screw that actually goes through both the IMF and EGR valves and then screws in the manifold, is this "normal" or have the previous owners modify it? (since i can find any elsawin that's actually usable for my car i have to ask)

because with that long screw then the EGR valve is only held down by the TWO frontal screws only plus pressure from the ASV below it, doesn't seem like smart engineering(it is faster to undo tho' since only 5 screws for egr+asv) as it can leave a potential gap.

can someone confirm this(and hopefully my previous post). point 5 is solved it's a 6mm allen and a 5mm one
 

Geoneo

Registered User
06 golf 2.0 gt tdi Hi all I'm new to this site but seem to be having the same problems as most on this post. Have the engine warning light on all the time and emmision garage showing for a few seconds at start up. I have cleaned the IMF and that seems ok not getting stuck and springing back open smoothly when I push it shut.

Now most people are saying to replace the f8 fuse? In my car it says that's the radio and that's working fine lol

also I've been looking on loads of sites to try and buy one but just can't seem to track one down !! Any help in that would be most greatful

if I open the IMF right up to see if any of the teeth have snapped off is it possible to to fix the backing plate back on?

Many thanks
george
 

Geoneo

Registered User
06 golf 2.0 gt tdi Hi all I'm new to this site but seem to be having the same problems as most on this post. Have the engine warning light on all the time and emmision garage showing for a few seconds at start up. I have cleaned the IMF and that seems ok not getting stuck and springing back open smoothly when I push it shut.

Now most people are saying to replace the f8 fuse? In my car it says that's the radio and that's working fine lol

also I've been looking on loads of sites to try and buy one but just can't seem to track one down !! Any help in that would be most greatful

if I open the IMF right up to see if any of the teeth have snapped off is it possible to to fix the backing plate back on?

Many thanks
george

ps just found from German auto spares £147 + postage
 
Hi guys,

Just wanted to pick up this excellent thread after a fair while, as I've been reading it a lot recently. My IMF failure was picked up way back in 2009, but it's only now I've got round to sorting it out!

I bought my new Pierburg IMF from Murrays Direct for £177. Our 54-plate Sportback 2.0TDI had done 62k miles and unlike others, hadn't popped its fuse.

Changing it was straightforward. The rear-most bolt, the longer one, was tough to reach but I found that moving the intake pipe first helped. So my procedure was as follows:

  • Remove battery cover and disconnect the battery negative terminal (10mm bolt) and push back and down out of the way
  • Remove plastic engine cover (just pull up quickly from the front and slide towards the front of the car)
  • Slacken the dipstick bolt (10mm bolt again). This helps with access later
  • Pull out the plastic U-shaped air intake from the front of the engine ccompartment
  • Using a 5mm Allen key, undo and remove the two bolts in the IMF (the two nearest the front of the car)
  • With a flat-head screwdriver, prise out the intake hose retaining clip and pull the hose downwards. Push it to the right of the IMF, so you can see more of the rearmost bolt
  • The tricky bit: this last bolt is a pain to get to. I managed it by putting each hand either side of the IMF and slowly slackening the bolt a bit at a time. When loose, you can use the invert the Allen key to twist out the bolt more quickly
  • After this point, the IMF comes free. Try not to drop anything - I managed not to!
  • Refitting is a reversal of removal
After reconnecting the battery, we had a bit of worry as the engine management light, the ESP light and the yellow steering wheel light all came on. The car started fine though. Next day however, started it again and even before the car reached the end of our driveway in reverse, all three lights were out. Drove it around all day today and no more engine management light!

Once again, thanks to everyone who contributed here. I was quoted £454 by Audi to remedy this, and for just £177, plus some oily mitts and about 90 minutes of my time, I've got the same result.
 
  • Like
Reactions: enc

IPA

Registered User
Hi guys,

Sorry to re-open this fantastic thread but I've been having the same problems on my 2.0 TDi.

After getting the usual fault codes (19557/19559) and checking the fuses which were fine I took my IMF off and took the cover to the motor housing off. As is mentioned in previous posts on this thread it was full of oil but I don't know if this is normal ie are they manufactured this way or do they let oil seep in over a period of time.

Anyway there didn't appear to be any broken teeth so I cleaned it out and gave the circuit board a good spray with contact cleaner. When I re-assembled it and put it back on the car I cleared the fault codes then started the engine and the light stayed off. The next morning however it came back on again so I ignored it as the car still drove fine although there was a slight whistle coming from the engine at low revs which sounded a bit like a vacuum leak somewhere but bit coincidental really. The light stayed on till the next day then when I started the car it went off and stayed off until now which is over a week.

It's a bit odd really as I don't think it's fixed as the car shudders a bit when turning the engine off and it's become a bit of a pig to start from cold (have to turn it over 3 or 4 times before it fires) but once it's started it runs fine. This could be the flap stuck in either a closed or semi-closed position by my reckoning and not letting enough air into the system.

A mechanic that I know seems to think that once you clean these units and put them back on the car they need re-setting using VCD but I'm not sure if this is true or not. What I can't understand is if the IMF is still faulty is why isn't the engine management light coming back on?

Should the flap open & shut when you turn the ignition to the on or off position as I think I will get a mirror and take off the big black intercooler pipe then get someone to turn the ignition on/off a couple of times to see if it moves?

Any thoughts anyone?
 

1inchwarrior

Registered User
I have this problem with my car, EML has been coming on and off for the last year, it has gone months without coming on and then will come on for a few journeys and then off again for a few weeks.

Just had it checked and it came back with the VCDS code 19559 for the Inlet Manifold Flap.

Should I get this changed and if so where is the cheapest place to get the part from at the moment?
 

IPA

Registered User
First thing is to check fuse F8 in the fuse box in the engine bay as a faulty motor can sometimes trip this.

I bought a 2nd hand flap from ebay in the end for £25. At that price it was worth a gamble and so far it has been fine.
 

1inchwarrior

Registered User
I'm looking at doing this later, once it's delivered from eurocarparts (£170), does anyone know what seals or gaskets ill need to undertake the job as I don't want to rip it all apart and then find out.
Thanks
 

1inchwarrior

Registered User
All sorted now, what a difference it made too, can't even tell that I've turned the engine off now as opposed to prior to fitting it when it sounded like the engine had dropped out when you would turn it off.
Fault codes gone and the glow plugs fault too...weird. Only time will tell if the all 4 glow plug fault will return.
 

Richt2686

Registered User
Had this problem on my mk5 golf 2.0 tdi. Emissions light came on so got it checked out.
After reading up here and other places the symptoms matched mine exactly- big engine judder when switching off, neither of the fans working on the radiators and a blown fuse 10A fuse. Bought a new throttle body from Euro carparts for just over £160 (good timing for an online offer) and fitted it yesterday afternoon. A doddle to change except for the bolt on the left which is awkward to get too. The part I bought (pierburg) is the same brand as the one I removed which is factory fitted. Only difference is the factory fitted has a VW stamp aswell as the pierburg stamp. VW wanted 360 + vat 😮. Thanks to everyone for their contributions, really helped. Car running perfectly now 😊
 

garethmorgan

Registered User
Just a quick question,

Should the valve move once removed from the car - should I be able to move the valve by hand?

Mine has been stuck in the open position for a couple of years now, bought a "working" one from eBay (came from a 2005 Golf GTi) and I can't move the flap, just wanted to know before I go and try and fit it.



G
 

Eliminateur

Registered User
Gareth, yes, you should be able to move it by hand once removed IIRC, might be a little stiff

Guys, which one is the newest revision for the ASV?, is there anything newer than the L one?
because in several sites i see that the same piece is listed as compatible with:
038128063F / 038128063G / 038128063L / 038128063M / 038128063P / 038128063Q
 

cypher007

Registered User
Well I got this checked out this morning, diagnostics say:

19557 - Motor for intake Manifold Flap (V157) Open or Short to Ground P3101

17075 - Fan 1 Control Circuit Short to GND P0691

19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157) No Signal P3102

Replaced the blown fuse and the flap motor started up, not making very good noises though. The engine management light has gone out but it's still not happy.

Think it's time to repace the motor. TPS quoted me £270! Still need to drive to Hertfordshire though so hoping it's ok.


ive got exactly the same issue on my A3, idling like a cement mixer. which fuse is it?
 

ch1z64

C'mon you's bhoy's in Green
VCDS Map User
Silver Supporter
ive got exactly the same issue on my A3, idling like a cement mixer. which fuse is it?
Its worth looking up what open or short to ground means as this could just be a broken wire , loose connection might save u a few pennies
 

cypher007

Registered User
sorry for re-opening old thread ive googled it and found out its fuse 8. mine was a 10A and blown. I did try a 15A I had spare, not a good idea I know, turned the car on, then about 10s later loud bang lots of smoke and a small fire later I have discovered my V157 is proper broke. it seems as other have discovered the stupid thing fills with oil and water. I inspected the mess and it blew the back cover off the valve gearbox spraying oil and water all over the cooling pipes.

so ive disconnected the solenoid and fitted a new 10A fuse. I now have it seems A/C so some progress.

is it ok to drive the car like this or will the flap suddenly shut now it doesn't have the spring inside it, as ive left the cover and spring off the valve for now?

still haven't figured whats wrong with the ESP system though.
 
Top