Hibiscus Red TQS - New Car, New Project, cars been here before though.

Getting busy this evening. Second hand marching ABS pump module arrived today. My plan being that I’ll detach the ECU from my unit, and bolt it to the other pump and motor unit. Hoping that this way, the ABS ECU will talk to my vehicle without the use of VCDS. I
l be honest. Apart from losing a screw and a nut into the undertray, everything has gone to plan. And I’ve just started the car, left it running for a bit and no ABS lights illuminated, so I’m guessing no diag issues. I’ve also pressurised the system with the larger input pipes connected, which purged the system. With everything tightened up, I pressurised it a second time, and no leaks. So……I’ll bleed all 4 wheels tomorrow, and cross my fingers I have brakes again.

Ive also changed the PCV valve again to a better quality unit. Somebody has told me a bad PCV will not help warm start failures. I was pretty surprised to see the stem of the PCV misshapen. Like the pinch clamp I e used has squashed it. Did not expect that.

Anyway, I’ll be busy again tomorrow night.

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ABS pump is fitted. Literally bought a used item of the same part number, removed my ECU from my pump, and installed on replacement, job done. Always a mission bleeding this car, had to do it twice again. But all good now. Changed the oil while it was in the air.

Since I’m at BTCC at Oulton Park tomorrow, thought I’d give it a polish today. Looking a bit more presentable now. I like this new front spoiler. Makes the front end look so much better. Also gave the engine bay a clean this time round, been ,earning to do it for a while. Cant stand dirty engine bays.


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Been a while since I last posted, but been a tough couple of months in the new job, and just not had time. And that’s taken its toll on the B5 sadly. Airbag warning on the dash, steering wheel leather dilapidated, headlining sagging now, vibration from drivetrain, knocking on front suspension, exhaust banging like hell. So some remedial work before the MOT this week.

All the front suspension bottom arms, that I’d purchased over 2 years ago, I finally decided to fit. Not quite the easy job I thought it would be. Front arms came out ok, getting a new one back in was unpleasant without removing the rear one as well. But to remove the rear arm, turns out you have to drop the subframe. Fantastic when you’re not on a 4 post ramp. But, I’ve managed it, so we now have 4 brand new lower arms.

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Also had to drop the anti roll bar to fit the arms, so I swapped out the anti roll bar shackle bushes for brand new Delphi items.

I also managed to source a new undertray, since my old one had seen better days. My fibreglass fix has lasted a title while longer, but it was time to get a new one. Fits much better, much more solid.

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Found the source of my vibration too. To say I was alarmed when I removed the passenger side wheel is an understatement. Think the tracking had been out so badly that the inside wall has worn right down, how this tyre didn’t blow out is a minor miracle.i was on the motorway with this tyre only a week ago.


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Got a pair of Good Year Eagle F1’s to replace these.

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So now it’s just a case of visiting one of my customers this coming week. Inspect the prop shaft, see if it’s put of line anywhere, re secure the exhaust to stop it banging. And also fit a remanufactured ABS control Module which appears to have failed. I can for this myself, but I need VagCOM to programme it together with somebody who knows what they are doing.
Then it’s MOT time. And hopefully we’re good for another year.
 
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So the visit to my customer went well. We had the car up on the ramps about 4 times in total with some test drivers inbetween.
First up, the exhaust was checked, and at first it seemed really solid. But it was extremely close to the rear diff cross member. So the exhaust mounting that attaches to the cross member was removed, and the holes elongated, so it could then hold the exhaust away from the cross member. This appears to work as there is no longer anymore contact.
Second up, the exhaust heat shield which had fallen onto the rear box was reattached and secured on the floor as intended.
Thirdly, the prop shaft was inspected. Both cv joints are running true at each end, but the bolts on the rear joint had come loose. So these have been retightened, and we also checked the centre spider and centre bearing. It appears as though there is too much lateral movement on the spider. Although I’m not so sure. So a decision has been made to take the car back in the future, take the prop off and send it to a local engineering company for a second opinion.
Lastly, the centre dash was dismantled, and the Airbag control unit accessed. As anybody who has done one of these before, you have to read the codes on the unit, find the 5 digit code unique to your vehicle, and store. Then swap over with your replacement unit. I got mine reconditioned from a place in Germany. Then recode the unit using the 5 digit side we stored, and reconfigure as a replacement unit. All done.
So now I have no airbag light, no exhaust noise, no prop vibration, wishbones all replaced, and new front tyres. So……..MOT time.


Have to admit, I’ve been playing with the idea of selling the TQS. As I’m really hankering after a DTM. But I know as soon as I sell this one, I’d regret it in a big way. Also I have no idea how much to ask for this one. I’ve spent a small fortune on it, I think everything adds to the car and doesn’t ruin it. I definatly don’t think there will be many TQS Audis in the UK that have had this attention. We shall see. What to actually ask for it, would be the biggest quandary for me.

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Geet stuff mate! I second keeping the car, there’s only 136 left on the road so hardly any at all!


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Geet stuff mate! I second keeping the car, there’s only 136 left on the road so hardly any at all!


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136 is that all. I can see that number going right down in the next couple years. I do enjoy driving it. And I do love that you just don’t see them anymore. I might be growing weary of going through the job list, not sure.
 
I hear you mate; I feel the same sometimes, but I keep looking at the car and thinking I can't stop now and need to get it to a mint stage. I saw a normal 1.8 for sale for 3k the other day so these are definitely going up in value!
 
Not been on in a while now, been so busy at work. Plus I’ve been ill for about 6 weeks now. I’ve noticed @Gops and @Sandip have been posting updates, so going to try and find some willpower.
I’ve got a prop shaft to take off and get balanced, needs its 6 month oil service, front brakes seem to having an issue, spare rear diff needs sending off for rebuild, and then just for a bit of extra fun……it’s developed a misfire which occurs at idle but only after idling for about a minute. Perfect.

I did however get a day with no rain to wash it on New Years Day. First wash since September I think.

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Not been on in a while now, been so busy at work. Plus I’ve been ill for about 6 weeks now. I’ve noticed @Gops and @Sandip have been posting updates, so going to try and find some willpower.
I’ve got a prop shaft to take off and get balanced, needs its 6 month oil service, front brakes seem to having an issue, spare rear diff needs sending off for rebuild, and then just for a bit of extra fun……it’s developed a misfire which occurs at idle but only after idling for about a minute. Perfect.

I did however get a day with no rain to wash it on New Years Day. First wash since September I think.

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Car looks mint mate! I hope you feel better as well bud!


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I’m not feeling too bad, glad the chest infection has left me, just feel energy depleted.

Back to my customers garage tomorrow with an Air Mass, a Lambda sensor, and a throttle body.

We smoke tested the vac system the other day, no leaks on the boost/intake side. Obviously checked codes which only gave mixture wrong. All cylinders are firing correctly so no ignition fault, live read the coolant sensor which is all good. But when reading the lambdas live, the regulating reading maxes out at 25% and then just drops to zero which is immediately when the misfire starts. I believe this is because it’s running too lean and the lambda can’t read above 25%. So…..the lambdas either telling lies, or it’s getting a bad air mass reading, or somethings wrong on the breather system. Lots of checks to do tomorrow evening, sure we’ll get to it.

Going to leave it with him next week, get the prop shaft taken off, rebalanced, then see where we are.
 
lumpy idle / misfire is fixed. My customer ran a few tests, aided by an online guru he pays to be part of annually. This guy saw it as a challenge due to it being an older Audi and the kind of technology he cut his teeth on years ago.

Few tests and we eliminated the Lambda sensor, as with a disconnected Air Mass, the lambda was able to control the mixture itself Thus letting us know it was working. Quick swap of the Air Mass for one we knew was working, and the lumpy idle was still present. So attention turned to the breather system. Locked off the vacuum circuit serving the purge valve etc, and still the lumpy idle present. Started searching underneath the manifold, and eureka, my customer found a broken breather pipe. A half inch long split on a pipe. Locked this part of the breather system off, and the engine ran sweet, with the mixture returning to normal.

Had to invoke a bit of a bush fix, as the hose is different diameters at each end, so a length of normal hose couldn’t be used. Went with the bicycle puncture repair method. Cut a small length of surplus hose, touch both sides up, put some vulcanising cement on my broken hose, wrap the surplus hose round it and secure with a cable tie. Once refitted when dry, tried the car again, and engine was running perfect. Once up operating temps, the mixture was perfect +/- 3%. Brilliant.

We did however replace my throttle body this time round with a new one I’d ordered from AUTODOC some time ago. We also cleaned the original Bosch Air Mass with some JLM Air Mass cleaner.On the way home it ran great, except for a slightly lazy throttle. I’m thinking maybe I need to relocate the throttle cable, make it slightly tighter, and see if it improves.

Just goes to show, blame doesn’t always lie in a specific part failure, like a lambda or air mass etc. An air leak just needs to be discovered.


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